I was looking at getting a SkyWatch EQ6-R mount with a 250 tube for visual and imaging use. I'm able to get a display AZ EQ6GT for a couple hundred cheaper. Are these a better mount having the AZ mode? I believe you can also put a second scope in ALT AZ mode? Some opinions would be great.
Also would this mount be OK for a 250 tube, guide scope, cameras, etc or would the equipment be to heavy for astrophotography? Any assistance would be great, I'm also planning on fixing the mount to a pier once I build my observatory. This may help to keep it stable.
If you're keen to do some visual with a newt, the az is a massive plus. EQ only means some funky viewing positions unless you get some tube rings that allow rotating it, which are pretty pricey.
Seems there are some quirks of the az eq6 that people discuss here a bit (search function should find em) but without a doubt, that's the way I would go if visual is any kind of priority with a newt. And yes, 2 scopes are doable in az mode
Rod
You would struggle putting a 10” f5 newt on an EQ6-R mount for imaging ( maybe a 10” f4 )
For visual a 10” newt is ok on the EQ6-R mount
I have two EQ6-R mounts at different locations for imaging, one has a 6” f6 and the other has an 8” f5 newt which has a payload of nearly 15kg
A 10” f5 newt set up for AP would have a payload of 20kg to 22kg maybe a kilo or 2 less for carbon fibre
No point pushing a mount to its limits for AP (not recommended)
An EQ8- R mount would be overkill at 50kg payload rating
Maybe some members can suggest another mount which would comfortably carry 22kg for AP use
Thanks Martin,
I was planning on a 10" f5 Newt and was told that the setup would be 17-18kg but still getting to the top end of capacity. I might have to look at what else is available or go back to an 8".
Cheers
Rod
Thanks Martin,
I was planning on a 10" f5 Newt and was told that the setup would be 17-18kg but still getting to the top end of capacity. I might have to look at what else is available or go back to an 8".
Cheers
Rod
Rod
Nothing wrong with an 8” f5 newt for Astrophotography
Plenty of aperture and focal length
I’d recommend the Bintel GSO over the Skywatcher black diamond series
GSO is a better build and a much better dual speed focuser ( I have both GSso and Skywatcher telescopes )
Here’s some images captured over the past 4 months with the 8” f5 newt on my EQ6-R mount
Wow, they look great. Were all these taken with the ZWO 2600 camera? I'm initially going to use a DSLR as can't spare $3k for a camera.
So do you find the GSO tubes better? When I was looking at the 250 f/5 Newt, the GSO tube was around $300 cheaper than the Skywatycher.
Cheers
Rod
Martin
Excuse my ignorance but what is a duofilter you use on some of the images?
Cheers
Rod
Yes all images are captured using the 2600MC
The Duoband filter is a narrowband filter used for OSC cameras in light polluted skies. It works by only letting in the Ha and OIII wavelengths , so less light pollution , moon glare etc in your image capture
I should have attached some of Canon 600D images which are still great
I’ll attach 2 off them captured with the Canon 600D and the 8” f5 newt
M83 Southern Pinwheel Galaxy
M8 Lagoon Nebula
Martin
Yes all images are captured using the 2600MC
The Duoband filter is a narrowband filter used for OSC cameras in light polluted skies. It works by only letting in the Ha and OIII wavelengths , so less light pollution , moon glare etc in your image capture
I should have attached some of Canon 600D images which are still great
I’ll attach 2 off them captured with the Canon 600D and the 8” f5 newt
M83 Southern Pinwheel Galaxy
M8 Lagoon Nebula
Martin
Rod
One important point is that to get images like these you need good data , image stacking and good image processing too
But the telescope grasps all the light data ( photons ) and the camera sensor absorbs the all data for processing
All these images do give you a feel of the image scale and field of view your working with using an 8” f5 newt at 1000mm focal length and a APS-C sensor with both my DSLR and cooled OSC camera
Martin
Martin,
The DSLR photos are still very good but just not as much colour and sharpness. Do you still use the duoband filter on the south coast? Also do you use a filter wheel, it seems like a good idea but does it add to much length between camera or maybe even a weak point?
The 8" appears to have a good field of view. Again my ignorance, what is the APS-c sensor?
Cheers
Rod
Martin,
The DSLR photos are still very good but just not as much colour and sharpness. Do you still use the duoband filter on the south coast? Also do you use a filter wheel, it seems like a good idea but does it add to much length between camera or maybe even a weak point?
The 8" appears to have a good field of view. Again my ignorance, what is the APS-c sensor?
Cheers
Rod
Rod
The big difference between a DSLR and a cooled CMOS camera ( mono with filter wheel or OSC One Shot Colour ) is the sensor temperature
The DSLR in Winter runs approx at 18degC and Summer 30degC plus , high sensor temperature causes dark current or dark noise which makes your images grainy
Cooled Mono and OSC can be cooled to -20Deg C or lower which reduces dark current or dark noise to just about nothing
Filter wheels are used with cooled Mono cameras only as they need the colour filters to produce a colour image. Cooled OSC cameras have in built filter wheel called a Bayer Matrix ( same as a DSLR too ) so you don’t need a separate filter wheel. I only use a DSLR and a cooled OSC camera
An APS-C sensor is a term for crop sized sensor or a reduced size full frame sensor , it’s usually 22mm x 15mm
Full frame in an 8” f5 would be a waste as most objects can be framed with spare view with a crop sensor or APS-C sensor
I use the Duoband down the coast only when the moon is up
In Sydney I use it most of the time due to heavy light pollution although you don’t need to use it on globular star clusters as your not capturing nebulosity etc just a big bunch of tightly condensed stars
Thanks for the explanation Martin. There is so much to astrophotography, the more I look the more I find. As you clear things up for me it just adds much more to the whole process. I like it, very challenging.
Cheers
Rod
Hi Rod in regard to payload specs the tripod plays a big part in the equation, a pier raises that load quite a lot.
I've been using a 10"f4.7 on a heq5 pro for a couple of years now without issue. I recently moved to a NEQ6 and the only difference that I've noticed is the the bigger mount handles the wind a bit better. Both of these are on an outdoor pier next to my shed.
Here's a couple of guide graphs with a 6" rc and the 10"f4.7, (on the HEQ5) the weight difference in payload does not affect the guiding results.
Hi Rick,
I will be building a pier so maybe the 10" f4.7 Skywatcher may be OK. I know some people say yes and others say no to heavy but I think your on the ball with the pier. Every shop I've spoken with all recommend the EQ6 as really this is the only mount unless you go for the EQ8 at $8k (crazy). Nice to see the guide graphs don't really change much.
Cheers
Rod
Hi Rod in regard to payload specs the tripod plays a big part in the equation, a pier raises that load quite a lot.
I've been using a 10"f4.7 on a heq5 pro for a couple of years now without issue. I recently moved to a NEQ6 and the only difference that I've noticed is the the bigger mount handles the wind a bit better. Both of these are on an outdoor pier next to my shed.
Here's a couple of guide graphs with a 6" rc and the 10"f4.7, (on the HEQ5) the weight difference in payload does not affect the guiding results.
Those graphs are dreamy! Are there no corrections being made, or are you able to turn off the view of corrections?
Those graphs are dreamy! Are there no corrections being made, or are you able to turn off the view of corrections?
I’ve always set my PHD2 graph with X 200 and Y 8” that way you see the corrections more clearly rather than a flat type graph
I also have the Star profile tool open too , tells you a lot about your guide star
Hi Rick,
I will be building a pier so maybe the 10" f4.7 Skywatcher may be OK. I know some people say yes and others say no to heavy but I think your on the ball with the pier. Every shop I've spoken with all recommend the EQ6 as really this is the only mount unless you go for the EQ8 at $8k (crazy). Nice to see the guide graphs don't really change much.
Cheers
Rod
The weight of 10" OTA and imaging accessories comes in at just under 18kg's, the f4.8 Skywatcher OTA is about the same weight as the Gso f4. Collimation of F4 newts can be a pain to get right, I'd stick with the f5 or f4.8
Quote:
Originally Posted by jahnpahwa
Those graphs are dreamy! Are there no corrections being made, or are you able to turn off the view of corrections?
Yes there is a check box to turn of the view, I find them distracting. I have corrections done every second so my graph looks smoother. I am now using an OAG which has shown a big improvement in guiding.
I was told my setup is between 17-18kg. I need some opinions on which to get. The 10” f4.8 Skywatcher Newt for $1100 or the GSO 10” f4.8 Newt for $800, either will be sitting on an AZ EQ6 GT mount. Both are currently available to purchase.
Cheers
Rod
The GS0 F5 OTA is nearly 1kg heavier than the Skywatcher F4.8
Skywatcher's use Pyrex glass for their primary mirrors vs BK7 in the GSO's, don't know if that makes any difference in thermal stability.
The latest Skywatchers have upgraded dual speed focusers.
I have an older Skywatcher and my only con with that is the focuser tube extends too far into the tube when prime focus imaging, not a huge problem but it does cause a bit of flaring in bright stars. There is a new low profile Skywatcher focuser that will hopefully be available as an accessory once manufacturing returns to normal. Skywatcher also have a photo optimised OTA (more $) which has a shorter tube to overcome this issue.
Rick
