OK, getting frustrated with the slightly erratic guiding I'm getting. The ASI 1600mm-c only shows up how bad it is.
I've read up on belt mods and they seem to be the answer to gear contamination\backlash\wear problems. So if I'm going to pull the mount down again to try and sort it I may just as well do the mod. I have a wee bit of limited budget after the 1600 buy and I want to get my moneys worth from that instead of throwing away bad frames all the time.
So where are they available from ?
Cost ? ( approx.)
Difficulty to fit\adjust ?
Results ?
Comments and advice sought.. please.
But if money is an issue I'd suggest to first post a typical guide log for diagnosis. The belt mod is not a miracle sure.
When I installed mine I also did a major tune-up and I think that was where most, if not all, the benefit came from.
The pictures of motors are old ones, now I have 400s/r steppers and 1:5 timing belt reduction.
Electronics is Arduino Mega, motor drivers are Pololu A4988, 16 microsteps.
I did the Rowan belt mod on my NEQ6 Pro, it was not hard to do. However, not all NEQ6 housing castings are trimmed the same at the factory. I had to use a Dremel tool to grind off abit of casting edge to allow one belt to pass through without rubbing on the casting. You need to be careful with belt alignment and adjust the worm pulley on the worm shaft if needed to achieve vertical alignment with the drive motor pulley. Certainly makes the mount quiet and it did significantly reduce gear lash. Importantly, you will learn alot about your mount by doing the mod. Rowan's instructions are good. Buy the worm shaft end cap removal tool.
Cheers all,
I took a good look at Rowans instructions. The latest kit resolves the belt clearance problem apparently but worth noting to check to be sure. I stripped and redid the mount a few years back but I suspect my work was not done in the cleanest environment and with best practices. I may have another go first over the Xmas break when the cloud prediction says 'not a fat chance of sky' for a while. My mount is pretty quiet regardless so maybe that might sort it out. Otherwise I'll go for the kit and the tool ( thanks Glen ) as well.
In the meantime it's that time of year again so have good Xmas guys and all the best for the New Year.
The one thing I wish I'd done before I did the belt mod on my EQ6 was... determining how well it was tracking/guiding before taking it apart
My mount tracks and guides nicely when the seeing is decent, and I think that is the key. My suspicion with a lot of folk's mounts is that 1) the polar alignment isn't good enough, so the guider has a lot of work to do and 2) the seeing mucks around enough that the mount doesn't have a chance to keep up.
To be fair, I have no idea if my mount improved post-belt mod, but I know my technique has...
I've got my Rowan Belt Kit, Washers from Doug, Super Lube and Astrobaby instructions all read to go. Planning on a rebuild over Christmas.
I've done some rough PEC measurement and currently have +14 & -12 results. I want to review this a bit more before the pull down.
Paul
Paul, as your taking it apart, check present the worm shaft end play. Move the shaft horizontally in either direction to check the bearing position limits. Slop in shaft end play needs to be tuned out by adjusting end cap stop position when your reinstalling, but that is in the instructions i believe..
Paul, as your taking it apart, check present the worm shaft end play. Move the shaft horizontally in either direction to check the bearing position limits. Slop in shaft end play needs to be tuned out by adjusting end cap stop position when your reinstalling, but that is in the instructions i believe..
Hmmm, that’s interesting.
I removed the worm end caps a few weeks back for a quick look see. I was staggered by the horizontal movement in the worm, and guessed the Caps are therefore critical in the final placement/adjustment.
I’m talking 3 to 5 mm of movement. Does that sound right?
I didn’t see anything in Astrobaby’s instructions about tuning this, but I’ll re-read them.
I removed the worm end caps a few weeks back for a quick look see. I was staggered by the horizontal movement in the worm, and guessed the Caps are therefore critical in the final placement/adjustment.
I’m talking 3 to 5 mm of movement. Does that sound right?
I didn’t see anything in Astrobaby’s instructions about tuning this, but I’ll re-read them.
Thanks,
Paul
Paul, Step 17 of the Rowan instructions (which can be downloaded as a pdf from the EQ6 webpage). Step 17 shows the use of the bearing removal tool to remove the bearing. Basically the end lock nut should be adjusted so that there is next to no end play on the worm. You don't want the worm to be able to move back or forth. Certainly 3-5mm is too much. I set mine up for no side to side play but with the bearing not binding.
"The final adjustment is to the worm end float adjuster. This is a slotted nut. It can be turned using circlip pliers, snipe nosed pliers or two small screwdrivers with fine blades. The worm float needs to be tight but not so tight that the mount binds. Generally I start with the worm float being loose and then gradually tighten it until the mount binds a little and then slacken it off."
Just reinforcing what Glen is explaining, the black end float cover has no role in the worm adjustment - it only keeps dust out.
The critical part is get the adjustment of the slotted "worm end float adjuster" tight enough to almost take out any lateral worm movement, but not so tight as to allow binding. There is usually one spot for each gear/worm combo that is just a bit tighter as you rotate that mount axis through 360 degrees, and you need enough play on the float to avoid any binding , even in the middle of winter in your coldest temps.
End float cover (black) in first pic.
Needle nose pliers adjusting the the worm end float adjuster in 2nd pic:
Hmmm
Reading this I'm beginning to think I'm the only one who is still happy with the standard NEQ6pro mount.
I've been using it (Belgium/ Oz) for the past six years with the C11 etc. and have experienced no issues (touch wood!)
It just does its job. I can easily run 10 min subs for spectroscopy.
Hmm, must check mine as well, I didn't touch it at my previous strip and clean. I'd rather not be spending money if I can help it. About to call it quits on working early in the new year. The ASI1600 was supposed to be my last big buy to keep me busy till I ran out of steam..
