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Poll: To vary exposures with your DSLR, do you...
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To vary exposures with your DSLR, do you...

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  #21  
Old 24-09-2009, 03:31 PM
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jjjnettie (Jeanette)
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That would save so much time on the field and at the computer.
I've downloaded 3.3. Looking forward to seeing the results.
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  #22  
Old 24-09-2009, 07:36 PM
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RobF (Rob)
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Almost all my work at ISO 800 sticking to times I have collected darks for (e.g. 3 mins, 5mins, 10 mins). Sometimes drop down to ISO 400 for bright objects.

In general, use a lower ISO if there is a chance of too many pixels overexposing on 5-10 min frames (e.g. bright stars, omega cent, even M31). Use a higher ISO if temp not too high and shooting objects so faint may miss getting a signal for some parts of object.

(I think if you polled ISO's people use, very few would ever use anything other than 400 or 800)
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  #23  
Old 24-09-2009, 09:00 PM
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Thanks Rob. Interested in your comment about using lower ISO if chance of too many pixels overexposing on 5-10 min frames. Why wouldn't you just use 1 or 2 min frames? You could quickly build a library of darks for those times too, no?
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  #24  
Old 24-09-2009, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troypiggo View Post
Thanks Rob. Interested in your comment about using lower ISO if chance of too many pixels overexposing on 5-10 min frames. Why wouldn't you just use 1 or 2 min frames? You could quickly build a library of darks for those times too, no?
You can certainly build up beautiful images from shortish (1-2 min) stacks of >100 images - Jeanette has shown this with her great pics off the Ioptron alt/az mounts many times. You usually see experienced (and well equiped) imagers declaring you get best faint detail with longer shots >10mins. Even bright objects tend to have very faint extensions.

The trick is to keep good tracking for that long mind you...
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