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Old 25-04-2017, 01:52 PM
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Kaye (Kaye)
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New and need help re Mount/tripod

Hi,
I am just getting back into astronomy after a long time and would like some advice on what is the best mount to buy. I want to buy a new refractor telescope (I'm thinking about 120mm) but at the moment trying to find out as much as I can about the mounts. I want something easy to use ... don't want GoTo .. don't want to have a heap of cables etc attached if that can be avoided. I will be just viewing at first but may want to take some photographs in future so want to be prepared for that. If I do get into astro photography it will just be with my Canon DSLR and an adapter so I was thinking to get an equitorial mount that can track whatever it is I want to photograph. Can someone point me in the right direction?
Thanks very much for any help you can offer
Hope I am in the right area to ask this!!!?
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Old 25-04-2017, 02:02 PM
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Atmos (Colin)
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Depending on location there is a non-goto HEQ5 for sale at the moment.
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Old 25-04-2017, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atmos View Post
Depending on location there is a non-goto HEQ5 for sale at the moment.
thanks .. I'm in Tamworth NSW.
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Old 25-04-2017, 05:04 PM
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Nebulous (Chris)
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Hi Kaye,

I've been into astronomy for two whole weeks now, so my advice should be taken as of very, very limited value!

Have you considered starting with a simpler Alt/Az mount or are you set on getting an equatorial mount? I've got an Alt/Az mount with a small refractor on it - which is very easy to use and it works fine with a Canon DSLR with an adaptor. However, I'm only taking single shots - nothing fancy.

I also have an EQ mount which requires a fair amount of fiddly setting up before any tracking will work - either manual or motorised. If you move the telescope's location, it then has to be re-oriented to the South Celestial Pole each time, in order for the geometry of the mount to work for tracking. It also requires a reasonable amount of practice to get used to the way the angles and rotations work for general location and viewing. It's not too hard, but it's just not as simple and intuitive as the alt/az mounts are. At least, that is how it has seemed to me.

What sort of photography might you want to do? I imagine that the experienced photographers here would be able to suggest EQ mounts that are better suited to specific uses.


Good luck with it all. Cheers,

Chris
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Old 25-04-2017, 06:42 PM
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Hi Chris,
Thanks for your reply.
I really don't know what I want except that I want to one day try adding my camera to the telescope and taking one shot pics. I thought I would need a mount that tracks the object I want to photograph? Will an Alt/Az do that? I am definitely technically challenged so whatever I get needs to be simple!
I've been researching and trying to read as much as I can but having trouble understanding what on earth they are talking about!!

Thanks again for your help
Kaye




Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebulous View Post
Hi Kaye,

I've been into astronomy for two whole weeks now, so my advice should be taken as of very, very limited value!

Have you considered starting with a simpler Alt/Az mount or are you set on getting an equatorial mount? I've got an Alt/Az mount with a small refractor on it - which is very easy to use and it works fine with a Canon DSLR with an adaptor. However, I'm only taking single shots - nothing fancy.

I also have an EQ mount which requires a fair amount of fiddly setting up before any tracking will work - either manual or motorised. If you move the telescope's location, it then has to be re-oriented to the South Celestial Pole each time, in order for the geometry of the mount to work for tracking. It also requires a reasonable amount of practice to get used to the way the angles and rotations work for general location and viewing. It's not too hard, but it's just not as simple and intuitive as the alt/az mounts are. At least, that is how it has seemed to me.

What sort of photography might you want to do? I imagine that the experienced photographers here would be able to suggest EQ mounts that are better suited to specific uses.


Good luck with it all. Cheers,

Chris
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Old 25-04-2017, 10:16 PM
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cometcatcher (Kevin)
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You don't need a mount that tracks to photograph the Moon and planets. Just look at the results in this forum for examples.

120mm refractors of the usual achromatic type don't photograph well, except for the Moon. Photo scopes are usually reflector types or the more expensive ED or APO refractors. Deep sky is not cheap to do. Solar system photography is the cheaper route, at least to start with.

Or you can start out simply with a camera on a tripod, take wide field shots and work your way up from there.
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Old 25-04-2017, 10:27 PM
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Exactly what Kevin says above.

Here's a much longer and much more waffly version...

Hi Kaye,

Two weeks ago I was in exactly the same position as you - I had a rough idea of what I would like to do, but no understanding of the terminology or the technical stuff. But I did a lot of research and practice and I’m now at least part of the way along the track. So I hope what I can tell you might be useful. Please excuse the length.

Firstly, my goal was very simple (at least I thought it was!) - learn the night sky and take a few pictures. But it turns out that can be anything from pretty easy through to a lifetime’s worth of study - and endless expense…

Here’s what has worked for me so far:

I started by sticking my camera on an ordinary tripod, pointing it upwards and taking some timed exposures. That was pretty simple with a modern DSLR. It’s necessary to use manual settings not auto as the camera can make poor choices when faced with something that consists mostly of blackness, with a few white dots! It’s also good to use a lens with a fairly wide field of vision. Longer zooms will struggle to gather enough light in a short enough time.

Canon do an 18-55mm zoom lens as a “kit” lens and I found it worked very well set at 18. Canon also do an inexpensive 50mm prime lens that worked fine for me too.

I tried different exposure times, and used a remote shutter release cable to reduce blur from wobble (probably not essential but I had one anyway). I set it on Manual (M on the Canon dial), set the ISO for something between 800 and 3200, (1600 worked fine for me) and then set the exposure time at anything from 2 or 3 seconds up to 25 or so. I was also necessary to use manual focus (set to infinity).

For what I wanted (simple wide sky pics) the exposure times wasn’t very critical. Too short (under two seconds) and only the brighter stars showed, and too long (over 20-25 secs) the stars began to show small amounts of movement blur. Anything in between was a compromise between overly light looking sky and varying number of stars. You don’t need a telescope for such photos.

When I attach the camera to the telescope, all I’m after is clear pictures of smaller areas of sky, to help me learn about the skies, although decent moon shots are easy enough too. What I don’t have ambitions to do is take photos of the quality you see in magazines or here at this forum. They require a different league of dedication! I would need to get a better quality scope, some dedicated software, and learn a bunch of new processing skills.

What a telescope does for me, which a regular long lens doesn’t, is gather a heap more light. So it could take pictures of much smaller areas of sky without needing long exposure times. Of course, I’m still only at the very shallowest end of the astrophotography pool, but as I don’t have ambitions to get detailed shots of very far objects, that suits me fine. It’s enough for my needs.

Conclusion: You don’t need tracking equipment to take basic night sky photos. You can leave the shutter open on a regular DSLR for 20 seconds or so before the rotation of the earth will cause noticeable blurring. Longer times can be achieved with a full frame sensor camera (e.g. Canon 5D).


Mounts:

Alt/Az

The Alt/Az style of mount is as simple as it gets. It goes from left to right and it goes up and down. A standard camera tripod can be used in that way. The main requirement of a telescope tripod is that it can carry the weight of the scope and also hold it as steady as possible without tipping or wobbling. Some camera tripods could be a little too flimsy and you wouldn't want to trust anything but light cheap scope on them, but others might be sturdy enough, providing the attachment method was strong enough..

PROS: Easy to use and relatively light to carry about. Requires no special setting up. I can pick up the rig, carry it outside, take the lens caps off, point it upwards and be observing in seconds. Works fine with a camera. It can carry the weight of the camera and scope and hold it steady enough for viewing or basic photography. It can also handle a few seconds of exposure when I put the camera on, which is all I need,

CONS: The light weight that made it easy to carry can make it less steady. I have camera tripods that are actually more solid than the Alt/Az tripod that came with my telescope. But it hasn’t been a problem. Mine has no dials or scales so I can’t read positions off it, but I don’t need to do that so it’s not missed. Tracking is done by twiddling two knobs. After a while I'll run out of twiddling adjustment and have to rewind and realign, but it’s quite a few minutes before I need to readjust, not just a few seconds.


Equatorial

If you like gadgets then an EQ mount is a joy to behold. Bristling with dials and levers, weights and knobs. If you don’t like gadgetry you’d probably hate it.

It’s heavy compared to the Alt/Az. The counterweights alone on mine weight over 5 kilos. It’s awkward to carry, and it requires time to set up. First I needed to set it to the latitude of where I live (mercifully you only do that once). Then it had to be levelled (there was a handy spirit level in the mount) and aligned to the South Celestial Pole. This is an imaginary place in the sky. Unlike the Northern hemsisphere (who get a handy star at the North Celestial Pole) our nearest star is too faint to picked up with the naked eye (and at our house it’s hidden behind a jacarandah tree too….) so an estimate had to be made based on the position of some of the stars in the Southern Cross and imaginary lines drawn from them. It’s suggested that when you get it nearly right you paint some dots on the ground to help putting the tripod back next time. Getting it nearly right isn’t too hard, getting it exactly right is definitely hard.

Unlike the Alt/Az it doesn’t go up and down and left and right in a straightforward manner. It rotates around two axes called right ascension and declination. This is not as easy to get your head around, especially if you want to re-align it quickly.

PROS: Once it’s properly set up you can follow the movement of the target by simply adjusting one knob instead of two. If your alignment is rough it will still work but you will also need to use the other knob, just not nearly so often as the main one. It can be motorised to do the job for you. However, for basic photography purposes, I am unlikely to want to be tracking things. Once it’s set up its weight is now a benefit to stability.

Comes with dials that (in theory) can help you locate objects of interest. Initially I had trouble with this because the instructions were appallingly vague and mostly concerned with the Northern hemisphere. However, once I got the hang of it, they have proved to be useful. In theory you could look up a star’s coordinates and then use the dials to lock onto it. In practice that is unlikely. If the quality of the dials and the accuracy of your setup wasn’t absolutely perfect you can still miss the target by a big margin. What it is useful for is to focus on a known star first - such as something in the Southern Cross, and then set the known coordinates of that star. You can then move across to an unknown different star and get a close enough approximation from the dials to be able to consult a star chart and get a name. Kind of fun if you like that sort of thing. Kind of a mathematical nightmare if you don’t…

CONS: Awkard to move, heavy, and time consuming to set up. Needs setting up again every time you move it outside again. Takes a while to get used to the way it moves.


Finally…. It’s worth remembering that astronomy telescopes generally invert the images so every direction you move the scope appears to do the opposite in the viewfinder. With an Alt/Az mount it’s easier to get used to inversion of up and down. left and right than the more complex movements of the EQ mounts. But all will become OK with enough practice. Which of course you will be doing in the dark. And it’s easier to do simple things blind that complex ones. Although mastering the complex can be fun too.

Good luck with choosing. Once you get going it’s not as bad as it sounds!

Cheers,

Chris.

Last edited by Nebulous; 26-04-2017 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 25-04-2017, 11:52 PM
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Just to give an example. All four of these pictures were taken with just a camera on a tripod - no telescope or special skills, filters, or extra gizmos required. All reduced to tiny low grade size for uploading. The one of the Southern Cross and the two pointers, and the one of Orion above our house were both time exposures of a few seconds. The moon is a much brighter target so the exposures there were a fraction of a second. (Our neighbour going to work was added to the moonshot later...).

The difference between what's required for regular shots like that and some of the splendid close up full colour shots of deep space objects that you'll seen done by other members here requires a big leap in equipment and skills that I'm unlikely to acquire any time soon (if ever)..

Cheers,

Chris
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Old 26-04-2017, 06:38 AM
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Thanks so much Chris, your response has explained everything I wanted to know

I have a full frame Canon 6D and a variety of Canon lenses so I will have a play around with that and see how I go. You make it sound easy

As for the telescope mount .. think I will stick with an Alt/Az. Gadgetry is not my thing so I'll avoid an equatorial mount!!

your neighbour has an interesting mode of travel .. love it!!

Thanks again .. much appreciate you taking the time to explain all that in a way I can now understand.

Cheers,
kaye

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebulous View Post
Just to give an example. All four of these pictures were taken with just a camera on a tripod - no telescope or special skills, filters, or extra gizmos required. All reduced to tiny low grade size for uploading. The one of the Southern Cross and the two pointers, and the one of Orion above our house were both time exposures of a few seconds. The moon is a much brighter target so the exposures there were a fraction of a second. (Our neighbour going to work was added to the moonshot later...).

The difference between what's required for regular shots like that and some of the splendid close up full colour shots of deep space objects that you'll seen done by other members here requires a big leap in equipment and skills that I'm unlikely to acquire any time soon (if ever)..

Cheers,

Chris
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Old 26-04-2017, 10:14 AM
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You’re most welcome Kaye. Being brand new at this myself, I’m still in the first flush of enthusiasm and I’m enjoying any chance to waffle on about the topic! My wife’s eyes now rapidly glaze over at the mention of the word “stars”…

Your 6D is a great camera and should be ideal for the job. Lucky you. I have a 600D and a 7D. Either works fine but the 600D is a fair bit lighter to attach to a telescope, so it’s a bit easier to balance.

When I said that I didn’t use a telescope for the moon shots, I meant that I didn’t use an astronomy style telescope. Strictly speaking, zoom lenses like the one that I did use are also called telescopic lenses and the general principle is much the same. They’re just optimised for different purposes. I usually take photos of the birds and other wildlife that share our bush block, so I have a comparatively long zoom lens. They work OK for moon shoots because the moon is so bright and it’s a decent size. The main game was getting the right light settings so that I didn't just get a washed out white disc with no detail.

One more tip about using a tripod for sky shots. When you tilt the camera upwards you will probably find (as I did) that it will only go so high before something hits and it can’t be tilted up as high as you want for some star shots. Don’t be tempted to get more angle by adjusting the legs on the tripod as you’ll make it unstable. Guess how I know that?

Obviously, the main danger with tripods is that if they’re accidentally knocked over it can badly damage the camera. And when you’re working in the darkest conditions you can get, and crouching at odd angles to get the view you need, the risk of knocking a leg of a tripod is increased.

What worked for me was reversing the direct of the little tripod plate that screws under the camera. I turned the arrow that says “lens” 180 degrees away from the lens. One of the adjusting handles was then in the “wrong” place but it was still perfectly usable and would then go as high as I want.

The moon is often visible in the sky during the day, so you could practice on that to get a feel for distances, effectiveness of various lens lengths and angles - all while you can see well! Then when you’re literally in the dark some of the other settings are already more familiar to you and you mostly have light levels to experiment with.

All the best with it. I hope we get to see some of your shots.
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Old 26-04-2017, 11:05 AM
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Hi again Chris,
I have used my camera and a beaut 100-400mm canon lens (love it!!) to take pics of the moon (and anything else that moves in my yard!!) I just didn't realise it could be used to take pics of anything else in the night sky.

My best attempt so far!! My first attempts were just bright balls but with a bit of fiddling I finally got a pretty good pic I think!

I guess I might be able to hook my camera up to my old 4" refractor .. have to see if they make an attachment for that!!
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Old 26-04-2017, 02:22 PM
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Wow - that moon shot is a cracker! The blue looks so much more restful that the usual black. You might be new to other styles of astrophotography, but you obviously know your way round your camera.

Your 100-400mm Canon lens sounds very juicy. I couldn't quite stretch that far at the time, so I bought a cheaper 120mm - 400mm Sigma version instead. I found that it was a bit too heavy to use hand held for taking bird shots, and they were often reluctant to sit still while I got a tripod set up and adjusted! So I also got a cheaper Canon EF 70-300mm lens which now lives on the camera and can be comfortably hand held. Very versatile and ideal for most of my needs.

What else moves in your yard? Birds, bees, flowers, roos, kids?? I just discovered that there's a sub-forum here for terrestrial photos - nature, and whatever else. Maybe you could post some there? I certainly intend to bore the members with some of my pics!

Good luck with find the right attachment. The one I bought was something under $40 at the local camera shop and it's quite slim. I unscrew part of the viewing tube and screw the adapter on instead, which gets the camera close to the telescope. Apparently, if the length is wrong it can be impossible to focus the image onto your sensor. Naturally, you have to use the focus wheel on the scope as the lens has been removed. In my case it worked OK, but it was almost at the outer limit of adjustment.

Cheers,

Chris
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Old 26-04-2017, 02:49 PM
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Oh great!! I didn't know about the terrestrial photos area ... I'll check that out. I LOVE photography and have lots of flora and fauna shots I can share

Yep, got birds, bees, flowers (more weeds than flowers mostly!!) kangaroo, the occasional wild pig and wild goats and would you believe we even have deer!! Apparently someone up north was breeding deer and some got out and are living in the hills behind my house. Kids are grown and left home so I have more time to play

Anyway, thanks again for your help ... lovely chatting with you


Kaye
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Old 27-04-2017, 04:52 PM
DarkKnight (Kev)
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Hi Kaye and welcome to the forum.

Just had a quick look at some of your pics and you seem to know your way around your camera. The 6D is reputed to be quite good for astro use.

A couple of hints to get you started on your astro journey with the 6D. You've done the moon, nice shot BTW, so the next step is the stars such as the Milky Way and some nebula.

There is a rule of thumb for the exposure length for the particular lens you are using called the '600 Rule' although I tend to use 500 instead. Basically it states that you divide 600 by the focal length of your lens to get the maximum exposure time before star trailing becomes evident.

Say you are taking a shot of M42 with your 400mm lens. Dividing 600 by 400 = 1.5 therefore your maximum exposure time is 1.5 seconds so you are not going to capture a lot of data. Obviously this is where tracking comes into play or you could try multiple images @1.5 seconds and stack them with a free program like DSS (Deep Sky Stacker.)

The Milky Way is probably a more rewarding target with a wide angle lens.
Say you have a 15mm lens, 600 divided by 15 = 40 seconds so you will capture much more data and get some very pleasing shots. Experiment with your ISO to see where noise becomes a problem. I'm a Nikon user so can't give any tips in that regard but generally ISO1600 should be top of the range.

Use a remote release and wait 10 seconds for your tripod to stop vibrating after you've touched it before activating the shutter, and use Mirror-Up mode if your camera has it.

My main interest is the Milky Way with an interesting terrestrial object in the frame.

Oh, and my Nan came from Tamworth and my Dad was born in Manilla.

This is one of my early MW shots with my now departed Nikon D800 and a Samyang 14mm f2.8 lens, taken at f2.8, 30 seconds at ISO4000. The glow in the bottom RH corner is light pollution from Maitland so try to avoid getting the glow from street lights and the moon in your shot. The second shot is SOOC so what you get from the camera is only the start.
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