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  #1  
Old 08-04-2008, 09:14 PM
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EzyStyles (Eric)
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Modded 40D, badd experience for Astro

Guys,

Tonight i gave the modded 40D a shot, first impression for astro use.. no good. i can't do it. Live view doesn't cut it for me even on bright stars. I'm so hoping that DSLR Focus will support the 40D one day, hoping but i know it never will. Camera functions are everywhere. Whatever it is, im just having bad experience with it since day 1. My previous modded 350d was simple and effective.

The IDAS LPS2 filter doesnt work properly on it too. The camera is overly sensitive on the red channel even with the LPS2 filter and UV/IR. Maybe the camera wasn't colour balanced correctly as it was in AWB mode but stilll. Ended up packing everything away in frustration.

attached is ETA 60sec shot at ISO400 with UV/IR, IDAS LPS2 filter in AWB mode . Please ignore the tracking, focus etc was a pure test only. scope not even collimated. As you can see, the red is just overly strong.

Might see it in the for sale section soon....
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:19 PM
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Hmmmm, Eric you sure are having a bad run, yes I can see what you mean with the red colouring, not that good Eric.

Leon
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2008, 09:32 PM
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skwinty (Steve)
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Geez guys
Now i am really confused.
My camera is hutech modded. No wavelengths over 700nm.
75 sec on eta gives more red than that. When i post every says nice pic.
Now Eric says his has too much red.
Others say eta mostly Ha so must be red.
Check the red in my pic.
Other comments have been more exposure. :wh istle:
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:40 PM
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thanks for the pic steve, great shot but yessss it is TOO red. Even your stars are red. it is not meant to be like that for a modded camera. see my unprocessed shot of it taken with the modded 350d .

Did you use CWB or AWB?

The red channel overtook both green and blue channel.
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  #5  
Old 08-04-2008, 10:02 PM
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Hi Eric
Herewith exif data of one of the frames of eta.


File name
IMG_0992.CR2
Camera Model Name
Canon EOS 40D
Shooting Date/Time
2008/03/24 02:26:07
Tv(Shutter Speed)
11Sec.
Av(Aperture Value)
F0.0
Metering Modes
Evaluative metering
Exposure Compensation
0
ISO Speed
400
Lens
-
Focal Length
0.0 mm
Image size
3888 x 2592
Image Quality
RAW
Flash
Off
White Balance
Auto
AF mode
Manual (MF)
Picture Style
Standard
Parameters
Tone Curve : Standard
Sharpness level : -
Pattern Sharpness : -
Contrast : 0
Sharpness : 3
Color saturation : 0
Color tone : 0
Highlight tone priority : No
Color matrix
-
Color Space
sRGB
File Size
9518 KB
Dust Delete Data
No
Drive Mode
Single-frame shooting
GPS Data
Satellite signal status : -
Date(UTC) : -
Latitude : -
Longitude : -
Altitude : -
Geographic coordinate system : -
Owner's Name
Steve Winterton
Camera Body No.
520210192
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2008, 10:05 PM
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EzyStyles (Eric)
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arh i see steve thanks. Maybe because we both used it in AWB? I have the LPS2 filter making it not as red as yours?
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:19 PM
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skwinty (Steve)
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Fair enough Eric, but in the middle of the night what do you use to make the CWB frame.
A g2 star perhaps, or should you rather use a temperature setting ?
Blow me down, it just doesnt get easier does it!
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  #8  
Old 08-04-2008, 10:29 PM
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use the image (the one of you holding the white paper). set that as CWB then use CWB in manual mode also. i'm going to test the 40D using CWB next. If the red channel is still heavily strong, will be up for sale.
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  #9  
Old 08-04-2008, 10:41 PM
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I thought there might be loads of decent data in there Eric.
Played around - I like the keyhole!!!
My old school motto was "Persevere"

Doug
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2008, 10:45 PM
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thanks doug. not really the processing side or the enhanced red which put me off, more of the live view and getting down correct focus is the main concern with all the pretty new functions etc etc. gee'ss headache of a camera. i'l stick to a camera which supports good old DSLR Focus .
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  #11  
Old 08-04-2008, 10:58 PM
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Eric where did you get the camera modded. !!!!!!
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  #12  
Old 08-04-2008, 11:19 PM
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I found the best results with my 30D modded with a clear filter was with a manual white balance using a white (or grey) sheet of paper under daylight.

AND a UV/IR blocking filter such as the Baader, otherwise you just get way too much UV and in particular IR coming through.

If you want a 'normal' looking photo, you want the h-alpha coming through and visible wavelengths, but not the UV or IR - unless you want them of course!
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  #13  
Old 08-04-2008, 11:21 PM
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Hi Eric,

If you are going to sell it then sell it. Maybe dont be too hasty though. It's a new camera and it just may take some time to get used to it. I may be wrong but i reckon someone with your skills once they mastered the camera would go far beyond what you acheived with the 350D. Just my 2 cents

As far as red is concerned, here is my version of Eta with the SBIG. I actually added some blue to this so i reckon Eta is red, red, red.

Edit

I agree with Suzy, have you tried it with a UV/IR blocking filter. Maybe you didnt need it on the 350D but need it on the 40D.

Edit Edit

350 D's are long gone. DSLR focus is a commercial program so the author will release a version for the 400D, 450D, 40D etc at some time in the future simpy to make money.


Paul
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2008, 01:12 AM
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When all else fails,RTFM!

Hi Eric
Am at home now and reading the 40d manual. Do you have one?
Time to rationalise now mate!
Either that or I will retract my statement about resolve and fortitude!!
1. The CWB really is only valid for the light in which you take the CWB shot.
2. The image that you use must be saved on the camera.
3. So, there are other ways to achieve the desired white balance.
4. White balance correction see page 80.
5. White balance auto bracketting see page 81.
6. Colour temperature setting. I think this one will be the best as it is a permanent setting. You just need to experiment to find which temp correction achieves the desired result and then you can always refer back to that setting whenever you need to without making sure a specific image is saved or taken for each situation. see page 69
Now, I do not understand why you say the live view focus doesnt cut it for you.
With my newt I always get diffraction spikes and when live view is zoomed to X10 then focus is easy.
If your scope is not producing diffraction spikes then just make a frame with a string or nylon cross mask and use that to produce diffraction spikes. Once focus is attained remove the mask and snap away. If you dont have a manual let me know and I will post a link so you can download one.
DONT give up and wish to revert to a another camera.
One should not burden ones self with regret about past decisions.
Just get on top of the situation.
Enough now of the sermonising!
Cheers
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  #15  
Old 09-04-2008, 04:20 AM
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I really can't see what the buzz is about with respect to this Live View stuff. For focus I would have assumed the capture program was way more fussy. If you use the likes of IP, or Maxim DSLR you won't be using Live View surely? Stick with it Eric.
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  #16  
Old 09-04-2008, 05:58 AM
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I'm with Gary.. personally I doubt I'd use LiveView even if I had it (for astro targets). Yes it has its benefits for daytime use but for astro, if you're hooked up to a computer, then using a program with algorithms to tell you how sharp your focus is, is surely going to give you a more accurate result than "by eye" with live view.

DSLR Focus is unlikely to be supporting the 40D, but there is ImagesPlus and other DSLR capture programs that have focus assist.

I used Chris' modded 350D on the weekend, it apparently has the "1a" filter in it, whatever that means. Without realising it, took all my images with a CWB setting as he had last used it for daylight use. So all the images came out with almost normal colour (colour temperature 3150 or so), only slightly more red. Obviously I could've changed the colour temperature before processing (I shot in RAW), but the detail was still there - and the colour was better.

Don't give up so soon, Eric. *slap slap* Actually try taking a few images and process them to see how it turns out.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:29 AM
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I find the live view excellent for focussing. I don't use the LCD on the camera but the very enlarged frame on the remote control software that comes with the camera. Just aim at a bright star near where you are going to image. I have been using gamma Cru in the south. I use the diffraction spikes from the spider as the focussing guide and focus until they are 1 sharp line.
Simple and effective.
Keep at it it Eric
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2008, 08:56 AM
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Eric, don't give up just yet. Gather more data, experiment with the red channel level in DSS or Photoshop. Perhaps you could even try setting the camera to daylight WB so you'll be starting with a known, fixed setting. The 40d user interface is more complex than the 350d or 400d, it will take some time to learn. Based on your previous work, you will get it sorted out and begin to produce truly wonderful results.
If all else fails, I for one am in the market for a modded 40d

Cheers,

Rob
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2008, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry B View Post
I find the live view excellent for focussing. I don't use the LCD on the camera but the very enlarged frame on the remote control software that comes with the camera. Just aim at a bright star near where you are going to image. I have been using gamma Cru in the south. I use the diffraction spikes from the spider as the focussing guide and focus until they are 1 sharp line.
Simple and effective.
Keep at it it Eric
I use the LCD screen on the camera despite the heat issues. I find the 10x zoom on the camera much better than going back and forward between laptop and camera to focus.
I don't know how long it takes to achieve sharp focus using software, but I know it is super quick with live view and my eye!
I don't understand why focusing with the 40D is a major concern for you Eric, and apart from that, don't the other features and specs make it very desirable as an astro DSLR?
Are you justifying a CCD purchase to yourself!!??
All the best whatever you do
Doug
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  #20  
Old 09-04-2008, 09:57 AM
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RB (Andrew)
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Sorry to hear your disappointment on the modded 40D Eric.

The problem seems to be with the modification though rather than the camera itself. Where did you get the mod 40D from ?

I know that at first the new features of the 40D may seem daunting but surly the basics are the same as the 350D for astro use.

As for live focusing, I love it, that's all I use on the 20Da and assume it's very similar for the 40D.

The big bonus would also be the included Canon control software that comes with the 40D, allowing you to set just about every parameter from the lappy.

Also if you use the RAW frames for processing you'll be able to rectify any colour imbalances later in PS etc I reckon.

Anyway hope it all works out for you.
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