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  #41  
Old 07-10-2010, 08:33 PM
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ballaratdragons (Ken)
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Originally Posted by koputai View Post
Hi Ken,

Any chance of you posting a dark frame from this camera, maybe with a bit of sense-up, so we can get an idea of the hot pixels?

The reasson I ask - I have a Mintron and am quite disappointed by the number and brightness of hot pixels, so am thinking of other options.

Thanks,
Jason.
Yes Jason, I'll grab one for you tomorrow night
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  #42  
Old 07-10-2010, 09:37 PM
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Excellent, thanks Ken.

Cheers,
Jason.
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  #43  
Old 08-10-2010, 05:48 PM
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MLyons (Martin)
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Ken and everyone else who is using or intends using the Samrung SCC-A2333 camera, you don't need to use the Samsung RD100 controller.

I have managed to duplicate and remote the little joystick switch thingy to scroll through the menus etc.

It's a very easy and clean mod if you have a soldering iron and know how to use it.

The only limit is the length of cable to the remote handpad.
So far it works great at 10 metres using 6 core screened cable with the screen earthed at the camera end only.

I'll take some pics and post them shortly.

Martin

Last edited by MLyons; 08-10-2010 at 05:49 PM. Reason: Edited to correct spelling
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  #44  
Old 08-10-2010, 06:46 PM
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Thanks Martin, that would be good
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  #45  
Old 08-10-2010, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koputai View Post
Hi Ken,

Any chance of you posting a dark frame from this camera, maybe with a bit of sense-up, so we can get an idea of the hot pixels?

The reasson I ask - I have a Mintron and am quite disappointed by the number and brightness of hot pixels, so am thinking of other options.

Thanks,
Jason.
Jason, I have taken 3 dark frame Screen Grabs for you.
They are at x128, x256, and x512 sens-up.

I left the Brightness and Contrast at 50% for all of them so they are equal in settings.

One thing I noticed straight away. Not as many hot pixels show up in these tests as when I image through the scope.
This test is with the camera out of the scope, lens cap on, and inside the house with the house heater on.
I see more hot pixels when the camera is in the scope, outside in the cold

Tomorrow night I will be broadcasting again, so I'll do an 'outside' test because I believe that this 'inside' test gives no results of any value. But for now, here are the results from this 'inside in the warm house' test.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (x128.jpg)
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  #46  
Old 08-10-2010, 10:45 PM
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Thanks Ken. That looks almost too good to be true! The Mintron has huge bright dots on it, I'll grab a dark when my new USB grabber turns up.

Cheers,
Jason.
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  #47  
Old 09-10-2010, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koputai View Post
Thanks Ken. That looks almost too good to be true! The Mintron has huge bright dots on it, I'll grab a dark when my new USB grabber turns up.

Cheers,
Jason.
HUGE bright dots! Yikes, that doesn't sound good.
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  #48  
Old 09-10-2010, 03:08 PM
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MLyons (Martin)
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Remote controller connection points

Black - common
Red - Enter
Blue - up
Green - down
Yellow - left
White - right
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  #49  
Old 09-10-2010, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MLyons View Post
Remote controller connection points

Black - common
Red - Enter
Blue - up
Green - down
Yellow - left
White - right
Cool. Thanks Martin

So, it's still running a seperate cable. Oh well, rather than paying $290 for the inline RD-100 controller I can live with yet another cable

I better start hunting down some 6 core cable, a box, and some switches.

Martin, can you please show a wiring diagram for the control box. I can't work it out in the pic. Thanks
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  #50  
Old 09-10-2010, 09:17 PM
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Hope this helps
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  #51  
Old 09-10-2010, 09:26 PM
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Thanks Martin, but why the Mylar screened cable, and how do I Earth it to the camera? With that little screw that says 'Ground'?
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  #52  
Old 09-10-2010, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ballaratdragons View Post
Thanks Martin, but why the Mylar screened cable, and how do I Earth it to the camera? With that little screw that says 'Ground'?
Hi Ken,
The reason I connected the screen to the camera chassis was to ensure no possibilities of erratic behaviour from interference being picked up with long lengths.
Remember that I'm running 10m at the moment with hopes of making it 20m soon.
Also, if you're in an area that gets a bit of lightning, it will help too.

You don't have to earth the screen for short runs (2m) but then it is also not necessary to use screened cable.

If you do intend to run long lengths, I recommend screened cable with the screen connected to any of the little screws holding the chassis together. (The "Earth" terminal on the outside of the camera is simply connected to the chassis internally)

DO NOT use the screen as one of your conductors (such as the "common" wire)
This will ENSURE that your cable becomes a big antenna that may pick up signals from elsewhere and cause erratic camera behaviour when in the menu.

Regards
Martin
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  #53  
Old 09-10-2010, 11:54 PM
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ok, thanks Martin
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  #54  
Old 10-10-2010, 04:20 PM
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Jason,

here is the test results from last night for Hot Pixels on the SCC-A2333 chip.

I left the camera on for 2 hours before doing the screen grabs so the camera was definitely warmed up.

The lens cap is ON the scope. Just like doing a dark with a DSLR.
Outside ambient temp hovered around the 8 degrees mark.

I hope these Screen Grabs are what you were after.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (sens-up-x128.jpg)
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  #55  
Old 10-10-2010, 04:39 PM
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Martin,

When I was drawing your wiring diagram I notice that you have the Yellow and White wires reversed from your actual wiring photo.

Will it matter?
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  #56  
Old 10-10-2010, 05:13 PM
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Wow, that's pretty awesome Ken, thanks. These cameras look like the ducks nuts.
My Mintron doesn't even come close to that when watching on a video monitor, when my grabber arrives this week I'll post some darks.

Cheers,
Jason.
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  #57  
Old 10-10-2010, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ballaratdragons View Post
Martin,

When I was drawing your wiring diagram I notice that you have the Yellow and White wires reversed from your actual wiring photo.

Will it matter?
Oops
The yellow and white wires are for left and right.
It won't do any harm other than reverse the direction the cursor moves in which could be a challenge when scrolling through the menus.

Martin
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  #58  
Old 10-10-2010, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MLyons View Post
Oops
The yellow and white wires are for left and right.
It won't do any harm other than reverse the direction the cursor moves in which could be a challenge when scrolling through the menus.

Martin


If I get them reversed I'll just swap them around.

Thanks heaps.

Going out now to start setting up for tonights broadcast. Lovely sky here.
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  #59  
Old 14-10-2010, 12:33 AM
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ballaratdragons (Ken)
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Jason,

here's another test result for you.
Images number 1 & 2 at x256 sens-up, number 3 at x512.
I have doubled the image size so you can see them better.

The strange thing with these Hot Pixels is that they change colours about twice a second and look like twinkling stars.
When on a Dark sky background they appear bright and in these twinkling colours.
When on a lighter sky background they appear as black 'Dead' pixels.

Oh, BTW, the images are 47tuc, Running Chicken Neb, and Helix Neb.
All single frame 'LIVE' screen grabs.
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  #60  
Old 12-07-2013, 11:24 AM
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Samsung SCC-A2333 Video Camera:Still available?

Hey guys,

Where in Oz can one buy these cameras or are they now obsolete?

ta,

JaBar
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