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  #21  
Old 05-04-2020, 04:23 PM
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The_bluester (Paul)
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Yes, the filters are still 2" but they are (As an estimate) 20 to 25mm closer to the sensor than the tilt plate, if you have their current suggested setup of camera>filter wheel>OAG>Tilt plate.

If I bought one I would be tempted to have the tilt plate machined out to M68 to thread directly on to my focuser. It would wipe out the holes they show on a 62mm circle but that would not matter and the tilt screws are on an 80mm circle. Or if tilt was not an issue the OAG could be direct threaded to my focuser using the M68 thread it has, with some appropriate spacers made up.
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  #22  
Old 05-04-2020, 07:01 PM
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Teleskop Services sells a 68mm tilt/tip adapter.

https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop...-Adapters.html

They have a range of large tilt adapters:

https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop...ter&suchdas=OK

Greg.

Last edited by gregbradley; 05-04-2020 at 09:35 PM.
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  #23  
Old 05-04-2020, 08:26 PM
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That looks like a fairly decent option. The only issue for a lot of folks is likely to be backfocus, though the way the corrector is set up on my SVX80 it is pretty easy to increase the amount of backfocus.
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  #24  
Old 05-04-2020, 08:50 PM
AnakChan (Sean)
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Nice find on the Teleskop Services. Didn't know that. Pity I didn't see this earlier. This is twice the depth of the ZWO tilt adapter and I had a custom adapter already made for it.
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  #25  
Old 06-04-2020, 11:16 AM
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Everything forward of my ASI294 appears to be nice and flat and true when rotating things. The cam istelf seems to be just a sniff out (I do suspect I bumped it into a tripd leg early in my AP journey)

I am tempted to buy one of these and insert it behind my rotator even with my current equipment. I have a ZWO tilt adjuster in front of my camera but as it uses thumbscrews it is a bit of a pain to adjust where one of these with socket headed screws would allow two allan keys to be used at once to move both the push and pull screws the same amount at the same time.
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  #26  
Old 08-04-2020, 11:28 AM
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Here's the other tilt adapter I mentioned, that you adjust from the side rather than on top which is not always available on some setups:

https://www.gerdneumann.net/english/...ting-unit.html

Greg.
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  #27  
Old 08-04-2020, 12:15 PM
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Wow, expensive critter but it does look really well thought out. The adjustment method would be quite a bit easier than the one I have which is the push/pull screw arrangement, it takes a bit of fiddling to get it really right.
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  #28  
Old 12-04-2020, 12:10 PM
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A good weather forecast coming up this week with the moon rising later and later.

A chance perhaps to get these new cameras out and imaging.

I am still considering these. The 6200mm Pro seems the best but of course is the most expensive.

Greg.
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  #29  
Old 12-04-2020, 08:07 PM
AnakChan (Sean)
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6200MM pro but most expensive? Did you mean the QHY600MM Pro instead?
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  #30  
Old 13-04-2020, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnakChan View Post
6200MM pro but most expensive? Did you mean the QHY600MM Pro instead?
Oh, I meant in the ASI range. Yes the QHY600 Pro seems to be more expensive.

Greg.
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  #31  
Old 28-04-2020, 09:18 PM
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That shifting horizontal lines in the darks shouldn't be an issue now I have used an ASI183mm Pro. Dithering and a decent SNR seems to make it vanish quite easily.

Anyone had any luck imaging with the ASI6200 yet?

Greg.
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  #32  
Old 29-04-2020, 08:48 AM
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I keep looking at this image as an indication of what they might look like in practice, and that is with 120 second subs, if that was achievable in practice it could be a pretty productive camera when you might see 40-45 subs an hour. It does indicate however that the Baader filters may produce some halos.



https://www.astrobin.com/full/irbmwz/0/
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  #33  
Old 29-04-2020, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_bluester View Post
I keep looking at this image as an indication of what they might look like in practice, and that is with 120 second subs, if that was achievable in practice it could be a pretty productive camera when you might see 40-45 subs an hour. It does indicate however that the Baader filters may produce some halos.



https://www.astrobin.com/full/irbmwz/0/
Those halos are quite minor. About 4 or 5 years ago when the KAF16803 sensor was becoming popular all of a sudden normal filters were seen to be not good enough and often had halos.

Gen 11 versions came out with anti reflection coatings that stopped these.

They are reflections between the inevitable flattener or corrector of APOs or mirrored scopes.

These days most scopes have flatteners or correctors and they can cause reflections.

The old Baaders caused halos but I thought they were on top of that with their latest models.

I think a real strength of this camera is to leverage the 61mp. I read a post where one person was binning 4x4 to get maximum SNR but still had decent resolution. File sizes become much more manageable as well.

I am not sure lots of exposures 45 seconds is the best way to handle this camera. I am finding with my ASI183mm 300 seconds gain 53 works well for LRGB and 10 mins gain 111 works for narrowband. I am wondering though if I should do a short exposure run to get more star colours which are lacking compared to my CCD camera's images.

Greg.
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  #34  
Old 29-04-2020, 08:18 PM
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I am finding similar even with the ASI294. Less images but longer seems better for the faint stuff than lots of shorter subs but one of these days I am going to have to do some short sub runs for star colours as at "unity" gain the 16K steps before the ADC output hits full scale means loads of stars get saturated to fat white blobs.
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  #35  
Old 30-04-2020, 01:54 AM
AnakChan (Sean)
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Greg, would a single 300sec sub cooled to -10C @ 0 Gain Bin 1 through an L-filter be of any use to you for assessment? (taken with a Takahashi µ250CRS @ native 2500mm/F10).

https://www.dropbox.com/s/02c3yy1rdz...e0005.fit?dl=0

I'm still taking more subs so no final integration yet.
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  #36  
Old 30-04-2020, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnakChan View Post
Greg, would a single 300sec sub cooled to -10C @ 0 Gain Bin 1 through an L-filter be of any use to you for assessment? (taken with a Takahashi µ250CRS @ native 2500mm/F10).

https://www.dropbox.com/s/02c3yy1rdz...e0005.fit?dl=0

I'm still taking more subs so no final integration yet.
Thanks Sean.

It looks very much the same as the 183mm images. Very clean.

Some good flats will be needed but that is not unusual. Needed also for CCD.

You've got some slight tilt in your system there with the fainter stars on the top half being a little off whilst the bottom part the stars are good.
That would be the bottom of your camera that needs to be packed out.

Greg.
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  #37  
Old 30-04-2020, 03:51 PM
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Interestingly QHY have a fix for the random fine horizontal banding and will upgrade existing cameras as well:

https://www.qhyccd.com/index.php?m=c...atid=23&id=281

Greg.
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  #38  
Old 01-05-2020, 12:12 AM
AnakChan (Sean)
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Thanks for sharing Greg. I haven’t seen it yet on the ASI6200. I wonder if it’s also susceptible to it and if so will ZWO do anything about it.
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  #39  
Old 01-05-2020, 11:14 AM
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I see this same fine horizontal lines on my ASI183
Which has a similar style sensor - just smaller.

It hasn’t been an issue so far as it gets swamped easily by signal but it may be an issue in short exposure narrowband shots so I would avoid short exposures
with narrowband.

Greg
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