hello members i have seen and read a lot about these new multi band filters and was wondering is there much difference between the optolong and the zwo?
what is the difference between the L enhance and the pro for city imaging? is one better than tuther?
i have seen the L enhance for about $200 aus
i have a 60da and a qhy10 osc, anybody had both for comparison? i seem to remember one of our members that compared a lot of filters with these included?
with the one multiband filter can you get rid of your separate Ha and O3 filters?
i seem to remember that one of them could be had in a 77mm format instead of using the full frame or cmos clip in, but perhaps that was not for a multiband
pat
I did see this post elsewhere but didn’t respond because you were comparing the l-enhance and zwo which I have no experience with. On the off chance if you are asking because of general interest in duo filters I’ll chime in with my experience with the STC Duo which I can say is an excellent filter. If the interest is in light pollution suppression then I can say they are worth every cent that you pay for them.
thanks very much ryan, that's what i needed to hear, i think they both have similar specs and the l-enhance seems a lot less expensive, was just wondering if anybody had tried both for comparison
pat
The zwo leaves larger halos than Optolong and STC I use the Optolong L-enhance and will be purchasing the L-extreme as it has an even narrower bandpass in O3 and 7nm in HA I have seen some brilliant examples from the L-Extreme. Also they are very well priced for the quality.
Something I’ve been meaning to do for a while I might do tomorrow night if things go as planned. I’ll take a sub filtered and unfiltered and I’ll post the difference with my STC Duo. I believe from what I’ve seen from other users that the L-enhance is indeed a cheaper filter that performs the same as the STC Duo. In the mean time I encourage you to have a look at Nikolas’ images and also ChrisV’s work. Both are more accomplished than I am and particularly ChrisV’s who has recently moved from the STC Duo to the Optolong L-extreme. Both are great examples of what can be achieved with these filters with OSC cameras.
ah thanks a lot people that is very good info
do we need the much longer subs normally associated with narrow band imaging?
anybody know how effective the L-Pro is at light suppression? thinking of getting the 77mm for widefield imaging with my canon lenses close to the city, it may be a lot better than the astronomik clip in and in particular for full frame sensors
thanks reggie, nik
ryan, that is a great idea!
pat
Here is two subs. Both are taken within 10 mins of each other ( allowing time to fit the filter, refocus and restart guiding ). Both are taken with my astromodified Canon 350d, 180sec long at ISO400 with my 8" f/4 imaging newtonian. My backyard is Bortle 8. Im pretty sure I don't have to say which is which but I think its pretty clear from this what they are capable of. To be fair this image is taken with 78% moon fairly close to the target but both images are under the same conditions.
In answer to your question, yes your subs need to be longer or higher iso with the filter. They are also not recommended for small apertures ie: under 5" for a reflector and its hard work on my 5"SCT ( but not impossible ).
lol no ryan, it is rather self evident which is which ........... very impressive!
now, is this a cmos clip in or prime focus filter? and they really don't work, say with a 100mm refractor, or is that just for mirrors? dammit if so, i was thinking for my frac and widefield with canon lenses
pat
The filters work fine with any size refractor in my experience, including the 60mm that I used to have.
Here's a couple of my shots with the L-extreme under 80 to 90% moonlight through the 150ED at f/6.
M17 was 56 minutes last night, very close to the moon.
The Helix was 5 hours.
I guess they'd be noticeably better without the moon but clear nights have been rare for the past few months.
My STC Duo is the 2” version not the clip in. I bought that one because I knew at some stage ( hopefully very soon ) I’ll be moving to a OSC astro camera. As far as refractors go, I have a 100 mm one but I very rarely use it and haven’t tried it. Casstony in the tread below is your goto man there. I forgot to mention him in my previous thread ( sorry Tony ) but he is another accomplished imager with these filters.
I've had the STC duo and now the optolong l-extreme. Both great filter.s I did 6min subs with the duo but am doing 10min with the extreme as it is narrower especially around OIII.
I would put up the Helix I've just finished capturing. But looking at it this morning there's a terrible light artefact that I've just realised is coming from a hole the the back cover on my newt. So instead here's the Eagle Neb I did a month ago http://www.astrobin.com/uzwzm1
I can provide an example of the l-pro with a canon 60d. I also have a qhy10 and use it with that to similar effect.
I have used it with both cameras and a 200mm reflector as well as a 120ED refractor, no problems with any.
The l-pro isn't really a duo band filter though, but it is effective for light pollution while retaining decent star color for clusters, galaxies, etc.
I'm going to get the l-extreme next, it seems like the next step up for an OSC camera now I can manage much longer subs.
This comparison is from a while ago. Single subs from the Canon 60D of the same duration, one with the filter and one the week before without. Both are calibrated and debayered.
Hi Cliff, the Swan was 4 min subs and Helix 5 min, with the scope at f/6.
Will you use a reducer on the 76DS?
Hi Tony,
Nice images, My Helix I could only get 60sec with sought of round stars. UV/IR filter only.
I do have a reducer never used it as I need some more connection bits to the camera.
My problem is getting a good enough polar alignment (no pole visible large tree not mine )for long subs max 60 -90sec on a good day and i haven't tried guiding yet either.
I placed my order for a 2” L-extreme recently, and I opted for courier postage ex-China . Order came to $361Aus total (plus a further GST component of $32 grrr) which is a HUGE saving on the original price and especially over dealer prices (but never in stock).
The reducer would help a lot with unguided images since guiding errors show up less and you get a brighter image in less time.
Guiding is very desirable though. I've gone for the easy to use but expensive MGEN guider. Most use the cheaper laptop based guiding.
The hand control polar alignment routine is plenty good enough once you're guiding (by whatever method). I haven't checked my PA in a long time, just using marks on the ground for the tripod feet and a mark between the mount and tripod.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff
Hi Tony,
Nice images, My Helix I could only get 60sec with sought of round stars. UV/IR filter only.
I do have a reducer never used it as I need some more connection bits to the camera.
My problem is getting a good enough polar alignment (no pole visible large tree not mine )for long subs max 60 -90sec on a good day and i haven't tried guiding yet either.
