Quite some time ago I saw a webpage where someone described re-packaging of Canon 400D or 450D into a new, cooled enclosure.
He also replaced the original shutter with emulator, and even posted waveforms..
Now that I obtained 400D on ebay (with error 99), I would like to do the same (plus debayering etc).
Does someone have similar link or experience with this?
I have seen that link some time ago, during an internet search, i think he was located in Singapore. He seems to have disappeared and i did not save the link. I do recall he removed some of the camera modules and repackaged it in a smaller cooled box. However, he had to have a camera control system to make it all work. CentralDS do much the same thing (professionally) in their cooled 5D models and they have plenty of photos you could look at but are not sharing about how to do it. My own experience tearing down 450Ds to mod, repair or get parts, like shutter replacement, tells me there are only marginal gains in weight savings to be had. In the 450D you need to retain the metal frame, the shutter, the processor board and the sensor board. The problem with removing something like the memory card, the top controls and flash unit, etc is that one single ribbon cable missing, or even misaligned or not locked down, will produce the dreaded "Error 99", and it will not function. Error 99 is the Canon catch all phrase none of us want to see, it gives you no information and you need to tear down the camera to find it. Pereonally, unless your very experienced with Canon software control, or could get the firmware and make sense of it, i would stick with the internals in the original case. There are plenty of modification you can do within the existing body: ie, cold finger/TEC cooling, full spectrum filter removal, debayering to mono, and removal of the redundant connector board.
In regards to your Error 99 camera, assuming it has never been opened and hacked by a previous owner, it can probably be fixed. However, ribbon cables don't just come loose thanks to the locking bars, so a board level failure is more likely or a control failure. Board level replacement is not cheap but can be done. A processor board for a 450D will cost you about $100USD, a sensor assembly can be found from $40USD (from China) to about $70USD from the US parts suppliers. Either of these boards can produce an Error 99.
As to debayering, be prepared to destroy some sensors in the learning process. There are several good utube examples of how to do it, Luis Campo's are maybe the best. JTW publish a guide on how to do it but i have found their polishing technique more difficult than the scratching method. Good luck it can be done.
I am very happy with my mono cold finger 450D which is now being used for narrowband imaging, and my cold finger full spectrum colour one. I need to get a set of RGB filters next.
Bojan, did you manage to get the instructions for the 450D shutter emulator from Filip?
Few people seem to have done it and reference the page by Anat Ruangrassamee which does not exist any more.
Bojan, did you manage to get the instructions for the 450D shutter emulator from Filip?
Few people seem to have done it and reference the page by Anat Ruangrassamee which does not exist any more.
Hi Luka,
Unfortunately no, he told me the info was lost in his computer perturbations some time ago
However, I still must have screen shot with waveforms (without indications which signal is on which channel) he send me some time ago, I need to find it... somewhere.
Bojan, did you manage to get the instructions for the 450D shutter emulator from Filip?
Few people seem to have done it and reference the page by Anat Ruangrassamee which does not exist any more.
Found it! (sorry for the delay...). Unfortunately, there are no comments as to where the waveforms were taken from.. still they could be useful.
Also, I found this page, Arduino approach (with a twist)
BTW.. I am now thinking about extreme modification of my already modified 450D, that will include cooling, re-packaging and adding OAG guiding camera (IMX291, sensor placed next to that of 450D.. or instead of focusing screen. I will have to remove the penta prism to make space for sensor..).
Erwin Lotter has updated his webpage with new version.. see below: http://www.diplot.de/shutter_de.htm
It supports a number of new-ish Canon cameras.. (but not 450D, yet).
I bought this 450D on ebay for couple of bucks, it suffered a fatal blow and most likely (and hopefully only) power board is damaged.. bent near the screw hole. So I need another one.
Melbourne or Ballarat area preferred for pickup.
Thank you in advance!
I've got one but unfortunately one of the connectors is broken (see pic - upper one on right has broken catch). If any use I can send to you. PM me your address if you want it.
on the 600d, I've removed the lower shutter completely (leaving the solenoid connected) and it has yet to throw an error, its rivet failed around 1.4 million photos, I'm suspecting your also thinking of removing the solenoids aswell, if so that would make things harder as it will be some delay circuit between the solenoid pulse and I believe a home switch on the top shutter,
The flaps, and the solenoids as best I could tell where completely independant
.. I'm suspecting your also thinking of removing the solenoids as well, if so that would make things harder as it will be some delay circuit between the solenoid pulse and I believe a home switch on the top shutter...
Hi Ryan,
yes, my plan is to remove all mechanics..
Erwin Lotter's Arduino design takes care of those delays from sensors, so no need for solenoids etc.
There is also a discussion about it on CN, here.
There is a suitable plastic box (Jaycar, HB0101), 158 x 95 x 53mm, so I can try to repack the whole thing inside, including Peltier cooler etc..
I've got one but unfortunately one of the connectors is broken (see pic - upper one on right has broken catch). If any use I can send to you. PM me your address if you want it.
Yes, this connector latch can be repaired :-).
PM sent.
Thanks to ChrisV, now I think (and hope) I have working power board...
I replaced the broken latch bar with the one I had on my corrosion-damaged board..
I had to cut off the hinges at ends to be able to remove the latch, but this should be OK, they are there to hold the latch in place when there is no cable, so I only have to be more careful when disconnecting FFC in the future.
Also, one contact (actually it is spring which presses the FFC to contact below) was bent a bit, and to rectify this I will need VERY fine tweezers, so I left it as is for now.
All this was done under the stereo microscope.
The next steps are assembly, connections and power up.. next week or over weekend..
After assembly and insertion of battery, the camera beeps from time to time (power is present), but it doesn't power up.. so it seems something else is broken.
Or I forgot to connect something...
EDIT:
I made an error, reversed the FFC that connects power board and main board.. After connecting it properly, camera doesn't power up (no beeps this time).
Hi Steve,
Yes, I did.. Very good site.
I will post the question there, but I am not hopeful re replies, they are swapping boards mainly, it seems there is no proper service manual for this camera (outside Canon) so repair on board level is very rare attempt.
This camera was hit hard by previous owner, so the original power board was mechanically bent and there were broken components on it. It is quite possible something else is damaged elsewhere, but no visible signs of damage at the first glance.
Luckily, I have another camera (actually two, one of them is IR-modified), so when time permits I will open it and compare the voltages on some points (connectors, test points etc.).
Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroViking
Hi Bojan,
Have you seen the 450D articles over on the iFixit site? They appear to have a few 'how to' documents there.
Canon camera shutter emulator ?
