Hi All'
I am looking at modifying my canon 500d for astro
I have received a quote for the modifications from Juan at Cheapastrophotography,
It states
1. hot mirror removal
2. Baader filter mod
Are these separate modifications or should both be carried out .
Is there anybody in Oz who does this?
Not sure, any help would be appreciated.
Hi George, see this thread about modding with Baader filter v full spectrum mod of DLSR http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=122289
Two issues you may want to bear in mind
1. You may want a newer DLSR for better ISO and lower noise, a 1100d is a good choice.
2. Being in Darwin, you may want to look at a cooled DLSR to minimise noise (which adds considerable cost to the mod).
Cheers
Bo
Thanks Bo
Yeah, i know temp is a big problem up here, and i will be getting a cooled camera ( don't know what as yet, About $2500 ) when i can afford it, so getting a newer dslr as well i don't think is an option although he does sell 2nd hand modified 600d and 1100 at reasonable prices, if you don't think modifying my 500 is worth it i guess i'll look at this option.
George
$2500 will get you a decent second hand astro ccd. In the meantime, you may just consider getting a cool box for your DLSR. Modding camera is not as hard as it seems, just need some steady hands and patience.
Bo
Your Welcome George, I got my 1100d from JTW with the Baader filter added. I am very happy with results I can achieve, JTW are a little pricey but worth it.
Id recommend getting a DSLR camera modded by people with the correct tools for the job.
A cooled camera is your best option - almost essential in hot weather.
I have a centalds cooled 60d. They are a very good company to deal with, but if you have a problem with the camera they may be the only ones who can fix it, due to the modifications.
Camera Clinic in Collingwood do astro modifications - but they are expensive.
I think the cheapest mod option (from what I have seen on other threads) is Peter Tan in Hong Kong - www.tan14.com
I haven't dealt with him but the comments I have seen have been positive.
An APS-C size 14bit DSLR of around 10 - 12mp is adequate. 40D, 450D are fine for beginners. Cheap and easy to mod for DIYers. Newer Canon's run a lot warmer. I wouldn't get too hung up on the age of the camera if it meets the general specs above. Pixel size is about right too.
Technique is the key with DSLR imaging. Amazing what you can do with the right approach.
I've just picked up a cheap 450D which I will mod. It's the first model to come out with LiveView and has a 12 mp sensor. I'm also doing a cool box build for it.
Camera was supposedly slightly broken (no autofocus) but I found and corrected the cause and autofocus don't mean squat when it's on a scope anyway.
I'll use BYEos, the LiveView capability is a huge benefit and from some of the pix I've seen taken with this camera I'm looking forward to some extra capabilities and good pix.
Not bad for all up about $120 so far
A few people have 'ice packed' their cameras to keep them cool. Plastic clip top lunch box with a couple of those plastic freezer packs inside with the camera. If you insulate the lunch box and keep the camera dry it is worth playing with for a cheap 'try before you buy' option.
My cool box starts with a lunch box. I'll post pix when it's looking a bit more completed so you get a better idea of how I've attacked the problem.
A cool box will take a while to chill a camera down due to contained thermal mass and the sensor being hidden away inside but it's a simpler approach for DIY and it does help.
A properly cooled camera uses a cold finger to the back of the sensor to acheive a faster, lower and better controlled temperature but that is really an experts project or a very brave amateur.
I deleted my earlier post because I did not want to add to your pain.
Two options
1. If this is going to be an ongoing interest and you have the funds buy a cooled camera.
2. If just casual and want to learn the ropes don't worry about temperature. The important thing is temperature consistency with DSLR RAW data across the whole data set - lights, darks, bias and flats. If you can live with that for a time - then go cooled.
I'm a brave amateur and cold finger mods are not so onerous... having done 5 to date
Brave man !! Well done.. maybe one day. I've got the ZWO AS! 120mc as a really chilled option. A heck of a lot easier to do.
Well under way with my cooled box now, solved the mounting problem I was having and this weekend should see it close to functional. A relatively easy amateur project so don't be frightened to try your own version. I'll post pix soon.
Once you understand what you are trying to acheive, dry and cold it is easy to find solutions. At the kind of ambient temp you are working with 10-15* cooler will even help. Thats about as much as I am expecting to get and my ambient will be about 10* cooler than yours in the first place. As Rowland says consistency is the critical factor, you can process other problems out if you have the right data.
Here's a few images with my 60d. You could probably do a lot better. I usually image at f/10 (2350mm) and have problems with tracking/guiding so my stars aren't that round. To try to reduce that I usually take 30 sec subs which isn't the best, also total exposure is only 40 - 60 minutes. Anyway, enough excuses ......
