#1  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:07 AM
Shano592's Avatar
Shano592 (Shane)
#6363

Shano592 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central Coast NSW
Posts: 1,206
Eos 20D to 20Da ... Possible?

Hi all,

I have with me, garyh's (and then pmrid's) modded 20D.

It seems to be running very nicely, and for daytime photography, it is really very good. I have set the custom white balance, and it takes excellent terrestrial images, usually of my dog barking at me, for pointing it at him.

Anyway, I was Googling around last night for a couple of hours, and came across a few discussions about possibly activating Live View on the 20D, using the 20Da's firmware.

To me it seems a little simplistic to think that Canon would not have foreseen such an easy workaround, but then again ...

My multi-part question - apart from the IR filter, are there any major hardware differences between the 20D and the 20Da, and is it feasible to theorise that a firmware update using the 20Da software won't brick the 20D? Has anyone tried it, or seen it done?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:21 AM
wasyoungonce's Avatar
wasyoungonce (Brendan)
Certified Village Idiot

wasyoungonce is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mexico city (Melb), Australia
Posts: 2,312
I did look at this long time ago and the answer was no.

Something to do with the flip mirror and prism config in the 20D was different ...so the 20D cannot do live view without a mirror change ..or something like that.

I'll hunt around for this source. Discussion here.

edit:
maybe something to do with the mirror lock..the 20D doesn't have this?

Last edited by wasyoungonce; 06-01-2011 at 09:45 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:22 AM
RB's Avatar
RB (Andrew)
Moderator

RB is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 21,921
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shano592 View Post
My multi-part question - apart from the IR filter, are there any major hardware differences between the 20D and the 20Da, and is it feasible to theorise that a firmware update using the 20Da software won't brick the 20D? Has anyone tried it, or seen it done?
I still use my 20Da for astro imaging (great camera) and I've given my 20D to my daughter.

The cameras are identical except I believe the 20Da uses a "translucent" type mirror rather than a normal mirror to achieve live view.
This live view is slightly different to the "liveview" featured on the current models.
So perhaps even if you do a 20Da firmware 'upgrade', you still may not be able to achieve live view.

I could be wrong though, but that's what I seem to remember regarding the major difference of the 20Da.

Andrew

Edit: wasyoungonce posted while I was typing, yes same concept.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:31 AM
Shano592's Avatar
Shano592 (Shane)
#6363

Shano592 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central Coast NSW
Posts: 1,206
I know it does have the mirror lock in the custom settings.

Just trying to even get close to focus through a tiny viewfinder is murder.

I had read about the translucent mirror thing too, but I couldn't find any confirmation.

At the moment, I am getting collimation circles, instead of stars in my images. I am hoping that there is a simple way (while still using the 20D) to get around this, as a nOOb.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:37 AM
Shano592's Avatar
Shano592 (Shane)
#6363

Shano592 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central Coast NSW
Posts: 1,206
It is a good camera, no question about it.

It resolves M42 nicely ... just out of focus (see image). This was taken on a balcony, so there is some "wobble" in the image. Also, it is in Alt-Az mode, so only a short exposure.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (_MG_6008.jpg)
167.6 KB64 views
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:53 AM
wasyoungonce's Avatar
wasyoungonce (Brendan)
Certified Village Idiot

wasyoungonce is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mexico city (Melb), Australia
Posts: 2,312
Yep here again...mentions the mirror is different.

Mentions "They also gave it a semi-transparent mirror, so that you can use the LCD for preview and focusing."

So maybe you can buy a 20Da mirror and put it in....but my guess is that canon has thought about this and you will not be able to upload the firmware.

And here they say it's not semi-transparent. But being no one has posted they did this firmware flash and it worked (in the years both cameras have been around) ...then it's not look'in good..sorry.

It's a pity the sensor pixel size on the 20D and 20Da are ideal for astro imaging.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-01-2011, 10:27 AM
RB's Avatar
RB (Andrew)
Moderator

RB is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 21,921
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shano592 View Post
At the moment, I am getting collimation circles, instead of stars in my images. I am hoping that there is a simple way (while still using the 20D) to get around this, as a nOOb.
You can always hook it up to a laptop and use a Bahtinov mask to achieve perfect focus.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-01-2011, 10:35 AM
jjjnettie's Avatar
jjjnettie (Jeanette)
Registered User

jjjnettie is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Far Far Away
Posts: 16,726
Focusing with Live View is supa quick and easy and simple and just everything!
I love Live View.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-01-2011, 11:27 AM
RB's Avatar
RB (Andrew)
Moderator

RB is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 21,921
Agreed, liveview is simply bliss and it's the main reason I bought the 20Da.
But if you don't manage to get the liveview firmware working on the 20D, the next best thing is to use a Bahtinov mask, or upgrade to a newer model with liveview.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-01-2011, 05:26 PM
Shano592's Avatar
Shano592 (Shane)
#6363

Shano592 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central Coast NSW
Posts: 1,206
Funny you mention that ... I was just at Bintel, and bought a Bahtinov Mask, along with a Meade Microfocuser.

I guess I can try to set the camera up to automagically send the images to the laptop for viewing. Off to the big box of camera stuff, to find the Canon discs.

Hopefully, Saturday is a good evening for the Pony Club. I can give it a rip there.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-01-2011, 05:57 PM
Octane's Avatar
Octane (Humayun)
IIS Member #671

Octane is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Canberra
Posts: 11,158
Shane,

Download the Bat Grabber software, and use it in conjunction with your Bahtinov Mask and the Canon EOS Utility, you'll be in focus in a matter of seconds.

H
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-01-2011, 06:15 PM
Shano592's Avatar
Shano592 (Shane)
#6363

Shano592 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central Coast NSW
Posts: 1,206
Thanks for the tip, H.

I'll give it a go.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-01-2011, 11:58 AM
Garyh's Avatar
Garyh
Amongst the stars

Garyh is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Glen Innes, N.S.W.
Posts: 2,839
Hi Shane,
Yeap that 20D is a ripper! very low noise levels compared to other 20D`s.
I basically used the canon EOS utility on pc to check till focus was spot on .
Have heard that bat grabber sw is pretty useful!
But if that camera had proper liveview I`d swap it for the 40D anytime!
Have fun
cheers Gary
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-01-2011, 03:07 PM
Shano592's Avatar
Shano592 (Shane)
#6363

Shano592 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central Coast NSW
Posts: 1,206
I'll ask before I actually get the chance to try it ...

How did you do it? Were you comparing images after each shot, and then adjusting from there?

ATM, this is the only way I can see to do it, so if there is another solution, I'm open to finding out about it.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-01-2011, 08:03 AM
Garyh's Avatar
Garyh
Amongst the stars

Garyh is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Glen Innes, N.S.W.
Posts: 2,839
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shano592 View Post
I'll ask before I actually get the chance to try it ...

How did you do it? Were you comparing images after each shot, and then adjusting from there?

ATM, this is the only way I can see to do it, so if there is another solution, I'm open to finding out about it.
yeah, take a quick pic say 5 sec of a bright star then tweeking the focus and comparing the pictures to see if it`s better or worse..Usually took me 5 to 10min to get the focus razor sharp.
Having a newt helped as I can tell by the diffraction spikes if I was getting closer or going the wrong way...I found the newt`s spikes worked better for me than the Bahtinov mask and gave me more acurate results..If you don`t have a Bahtinov mask then you could make up a simple cross to plop on the front of your SCT.
cheers Gary
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 08-01-2011, 11:33 AM
Shano592's Avatar
Shano592 (Shane)
#6363

Shano592 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central Coast NSW
Posts: 1,206
Awesome.

Thanks Garyh, and others.

Hopefully the weather is good for the Pony Club tonight.

The rain was something else overnight, up this way.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +10. The time is now 03:46 PM.

Powered by vBulletin Version 3.8.7 | Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertisement
SkyWatcher Australia
Advertisement
Meade Australia
Advertisement
OzScopes Authorised Dealer
Advertisement
Lunatico Astronomical
Advertisement
Bintel
Advertisement
NexDome Observatories
Advertisement
Celestron Australia
Advertisement
Astronomy and Electronics Centre
Advertisement