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  #101  
Old 26-10-2012, 05:05 AM
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David not to put this down, but that is quite funny to watch.

You guys in my opinion are over complicating all of this. Simple is best in my experience. Things often do not allow for complicated at an eclipse.

Both totals I have been to have been cloud affected, this one will be the same in all likelyhood. In that case you need to use different exposure settings. High cloud in particular will wipe out all this automated stuff. Images will be way under exposed. Being able to shoot to compensate for any cloud will be the best strategy. I wish you luck but I am going with a remote, my mount, 300mm f2.8 with 2xTEC, Lunt 80, PGR camera and laptop. All battery operated. The Lunt will be for 5 minute exposures leading up to totality and the white light will only be for the period of totality.

Time will tell I suppose.
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  #102  
Old 26-10-2012, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Haese View Post
David not to put this down, but that is quite funny to watch.

You guys in my opinion are over complicating all of this. Simple is best in my experience. Things often do not allow for complicated at an eclipse.

Both totals I have been to have been cloud affected, this one will be the same in all likelyhood. In that case you need to use different exposure settings. High cloud in particular will wipe out all this automated stuff. Images will be way under exposed. Being able to shoot to compensate for any cloud will be the best strategy. I wish you luck but I am going with a remote, my mount, 300mm f2.8 with 2xTEC, Lunt 80, PGR camera and laptop. All battery operated. The Lunt will be for 5 minute exposures leading up to totality and the white light will only be for the period of totality.

Time will tell I suppose.
already got that covered paul - have a bulb if things go wrong big time, but more importantly the settings vary in the original script, however i have a backup script for longer exposures. the original script already accounted for extinction. yeah i was going to take the lunt originally but it was pretty heavy and i saw you and a few others were taking theirs - so i left that out and decided t odo the multiple camera option. if nothing else it sounds great while sitting there admiring the view
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  #103  
Old 27-10-2012, 06:48 AM
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Don't forget to charge those batteries!

I'm taking a film camera to the school as well, just in case everything else goes to pot.
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  #104  
Old 28-10-2012, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Haese View Post
David not to put this down, but that is quite funny to watch.

You guys in my opinion are over complicating all of this. Simple is best in my experience. Things often do not allow for complicated at an eclipse.

Both totals I have been to have been cloud affected, this one will be the same in all likelyhood. In that case you need to use different exposure settings. High cloud in particular will wipe out all this automated stuff. Images will be way under exposed. Being able to shoot to compensate for any cloud will be the best strategy. I wish you luck but I am going with a remote, my mount, 300mm f2.8 with 2xTEC, Lunt 80, PGR camera and laptop. All battery operated. The Lunt will be for 5 minute exposures leading up to totality and the white light will only be for the period of totality.

Time will tell I suppose.

I agree Paul. I often even shoot manual for terrestial with my D800E. There is no substitute for being completely in touch with your gear and knowing rapidly almost without thinking what to change on your camera to get a good exposure. If you have to think or fiddle with it you are at risk of not getting that brief moment recorded.

I read yesterday El Nino is now gone and its the fastest switch in recorded history so now a normal wet season is expected rather than a dry one. That was referring to the Northern Territory but I imagine it affects Aussie east coast as well. Not good news for the eclipse.

Greg.
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  #105  
Old 28-10-2012, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by AstralTraveller View Post
I've got the gear together, can run sequences and am pretty organised with my coronal shots. The thing I'm hung up on is the sequence around the 2nd and 3rd contacts - what features to shoot when. I think the visualiser in EO has some advice but I can't find it documented anywhere. There are a number of coloured bands which I think represent features like Diamond Ring, Bailey Beads, Chromosphere, Prominences, Inner Corona and Outer Corona. Their span across the time axis is the time to shoot these features and the position on the vertical axis is their brightness (in Q?). Does anyone know if I am reading this right? Otherwise, when should I shoot what?
I have the same question about the color bands. I'm finding my exposures aren't inside them. Does this mean I've got my exposures wrong or some misconfiguration somewhere?
James
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  #106  
Old 28-10-2012, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon View Post
I have the same question about the color bands. I'm finding my exposures aren't inside them. Does this mean I've got my exposures wrong or some misconfiguration somewhere?
James
I'm trying to understand the same thing, and found the relevant text on the EO page:

http://www.moonglowtech.com/products...gStarted.shtml

The colored boxes in the graph represent suggested exposure times and settings for various phenomena. A good script will bracket in such a way as to fill out the boxes, to cover differences in camera sensitivity, atmospheric transparency, etc. The color code is:
Orange = Partial phases
Green = Diamond Ring
Yellow = Baily's Beads
Pink = Chromosphere
Red = Prominences
Gray = Corona
Violet = Earthshine (the face of the Moon)
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  #107  
Old 28-10-2012, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon View Post
I have the same question about the color bands. I'm finding my exposures aren't inside them. Does this mean I've got my exposures wrong or some misconfiguration somewhere?
James
If you are forced to use a long gap between exposures then your sequences will get forced away from the ideal timing. Try generating a script with only a very short gap (eg 0.5 sec) and seeing where it places the exposures then, just as a reference..

This site (previously on this thread) is also very useful for confirming exposure times for various features (but not the timing relative to contacts):
http://xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages...eExposure.html

Phil
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  #108  
Old 28-10-2012, 10:01 PM
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For anybody interested, I have attached a copy of my current Eclipse Orchestrator script and the resulting exposure sequence. 85 exposures in about 2min 35secs but working ok so far. I still can't get the RELEASE command to work reliably so am sticking to TAKEPIC which effectively functions the same way for me when the gap between shots is short (since it fires via the serial cable whatever state the camera is in).

Interested to hear any comments/questions and also to see scripts from experienced others!

I can certainly support what Paul and Greg have said, and knowing your gear and keeping it simple is advice I give often as well. But I guess with an eclipse, you have to balance several factors and each individual has to make their own choice about that.

Automated scripting is not for beginners, but if you want to image at multiple focal lengths I don't really see any alternative. It also provides a degree of optimisation of exposures at each eclipse stage that is very difficult otherwise, particularly with fine-tuning of mirror-lockup delays.

The automated approach is an all-or-nothing bet, but I plan to ignore the camera during totality and if the computer control is a wipe out then I won't have lost out on the visual experience. Of course, I'm very painfully aware that all this preparation and practice could be for nothing more than a beautiful image of some nice puffy cumulus clouds!

Phil
Attached Files
File Type: txt EO Script 5DII f13 10-28 Exposure Sequence.txt (33.6 KB, 44 views)
File Type: txt EO Script 5DII f13 10-28.txt (4.5 KB, 43 views)
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  #109  
Old 28-10-2012, 11:04 PM
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Thanks Phil - you've given me an excellent idea!
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  #110  
Old 28-10-2012, 11:49 PM
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I just tried a new approach that seems to work ok. Here is a sample test script:

TAKEPIC,EMERGENCY,-,00:00:00.0,5DMKII,1/1000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 1000
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 1000
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:02.5,5DMKII,1/500,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 500
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 500
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:03.0,5DMKII,1/250,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 250
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 250
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:03.0,5DMKII,1/125,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 125
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 125

In 15 seconds it takes 6x1000, 6x500, 6x250, 6x125, total 24 images.
The camera is set to continuous shooting, and I only have a USB cable.

The first TAKEPIC sets the exposure, the second one is a BULB exposure, so the camera goes into continuous shooting mode for one second and takes about 5 images per second.
It's important to have a good size delay to allow the CF card to catch up before the next image with a different exposure is taken.

My camera/card combination can take about 3 RAW images per second.
Before my script was limited by the 1 second delay to program the camera exposure. Now it's mostly limited by the CF card speed.

Does this make sense?

James
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  #111  
Old 29-10-2012, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon View Post
I just tried a new approach that seems to work ok. Here is a sample test script:

In 15 seconds it takes 6x1000, 6x500, 6x250, 6x125, total 24 images.
The camera is set to continuous shooting, and I only have a USB cable.
This is probably a reasonable compromise without a serial cable. The main issue is I guess that you cannot use mirror-lockup? Not an issue with a 1/1500 sec exposure, but i think you can see it in the slower exposures (eg 1/30 sec).

Phil
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  #112  
Old 29-10-2012, 10:56 AM
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only need to make the filters now i have the camera functionality sorted out dont mind the mess - its an organised mess - see here and turn up the volume

the MAC will be controlling 4 canon cameras - 650D 60D 600D and a 30D lenses will be a 250mm lens, 400mm L lens , 200mm L lens and a 10mm fisheye lens - wont bother with a solar filter for the fisheye

I am just so stoked I have got this working. Xavier has just finished a beta before the eclipse and this seemed an impossible goal – not now. Be using a 400mm L lens, 250mm standard lens, 200mm L lens and a 10mm fisheye, starlapse (2 cameras, 60D and 600D with the 400 and the 200) the polarie (fisheye and 30D) and astrotrac (650D with 250mm)…..
Solar Eclipse Maestro 1.8.3 final release is now available.

Two versions are available: one Universal Binary to support Canon's legacy cameras and the other Intel to support the latest Canon cameras. All the Nikon DSLRs are supported by both versions and the same is true for all SBIG CCD cameras and their filter wheels.
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  #113  
Old 29-10-2012, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by EclipseMaestro View Post
Solar Eclipse Maestro 1.8.3 final release is now available.

Two versions are available: one Universal Binary to support Canon's legacy cameras and the other Intel to support the latest Canon cameras. All the Nikon DSLRs are supported by both versions and the same is true for all SBIG CCD cameras and their filter wheels.
great news indeed
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  #114  
Old 29-10-2012, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by shahgazer View Post
Does the latest version allows bracketing with Canon cameras? The web stated that the Pro version supports Nikon (for bracketing).
No, the automatic scripted exposure bracketing is only available for Nikon cameras. Shooting during totality can be very easy as you can ask for 9 bracketed exposures with a step-size increment from 0.3EV to 3 stops.
The same is true for burst where the fps can even be scripted for Nikon cameras.

To my knowledge Canon doesn't allow to remotely control the exposure bracketing settings. And the exposure bracketing is quite limited on Canon cameras, but the latest, when you compare it to what Nikon is offering.

Unfortunately the dream camera would be a combination of Nikon and Canon features... something unlikely to happen anytime soon!
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  #115  
Old 29-10-2012, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon View Post
I just tried a new approach that seems to work ok.

TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:02.5,5DMKII,1/500,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona bracketing 500
TAKEPIC,LAST,+,00:00:01.1,5DMKII,B1 .000,8.0,100,0.000,RAW,,N,Corona

The first TAKEPIC sets the exposure, the second one is a BULB exposure, so the camera goes into continuous shooting mode for one second and takes about 5 images per second.
If it's what it does, then EO is really buggy and the bulb exposure doesn't work properly at all! A one second bulb exposure is only one exposure that should last one second, nothing else.
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  #116  
Old 29-10-2012, 12:01 PM
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it's what it does, then EO is really buggy and the bulb exposure doesn't work properly at all! A one second bulb exposure is only one exposure that should last one second, nothing else.
If I turn off continuous shooting mode on the camera, then I get 1 x 1/500 exposure and 1 x 1 sec exposure as expected. For me the EO behaviour is as expected.
Quote:
The main issue is I guess that you cannot use mirror-lockup? Not an issue with a 1/1500 sec exposure, but i think you can see it in the slower exposures (eg 1/30 sec).
Correct. With mirror lock up enabled, single shooting is the only option available. The ideal option would be liveview, but you can't program the exposures in advance.
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  #117  
Old 29-10-2012, 06:09 PM
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Has anyone been experimenting with their DSLR and different lens focal lengths and settings on a regular sun?

I am thinking for me TEC110 and Canon 40D and D800E with 24-70 F2.8 zoom so I can change the framing to suit. Perhaps 70-210 F4 may be better.

I think I will try out a variable ND filter to see if its any good. I suspect not but its worth a try.

1/8000th sec and ISO50 and lens stopped down to F12 may work.

Solar film filters give boring images so I am hoping to to not have to use that.

Greg.
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  #118  
Old 06-11-2012, 10:18 AM
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Just to let you all know that Solar Eclipse Maestro 1.8.3v2 is now available.

There are two versions, one Universal Binary and the other Intel. The UB version does support Canon's legacy cameras (350D, 20D/20Da, 5D) but not the latest models such as the 1D X, while the Intel version doesn't support Canon's legacy cameras but does support all the latest models.
Of course all Nikon cameras are supported by both versions, and all SBIG CCD cameras with their filters wheels as well.
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  #119  
Old 06-11-2012, 01:34 PM
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Does this work on Windows or only Mac?

Greg.
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  #120  
Old 06-11-2012, 01:48 PM
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Does this work on Windows or only Mac?
Mac only.
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