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  #21  
Old 27-11-2015, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baileys2611 View Post
Hi Greg,

Yes - I went through all the steps of the wizards, including re-adding the mount through the mount wizard.

You know it's funny how thick I can be sometimes...All this time I've been reading 'scope on the west side of the meridian' to mean that the scope is pointing to a star on the west side of the meridian.

So, now I think I understand it to mean if the scope is physically on the west of the mount. It's always been on the east of the mount, pointing to a star that is on the west of the meridian but as close to 0degrees dec as I can get.

Is that the right set-up?
Yes that's right.
So there's where it went wrong and worsened your PE.
Its pushing when it should be pulling so to speak.
Greg
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  #22  
Old 27-11-2015, 08:25 PM
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Simon,

What you have described is NOT the 1/4-20 bolts! The ones you adjusted determin the tension between the worm and ring gear. The 1/4-20s set the depth of the fit and snugness. The 1/4-20s are on the ends of the worm ...hex bolts. They need to be quite tight and tightened while you press up on the worm block.

As for the East/West side thing....having a camera that mirrors the image will cause the setting to be reversed. Best thing is just to try one way and if it doesn't work, reverse it!

Peter

PS you can exchange the worms and there is nothing that needs to be changed re index angles, etc.

EDIT: I wrote this in haste last night. Sorry if it sounds abrupt! I'm just not sure you have identified the 1/4-20 bolts.

Last edited by PRejto; 28-11-2015 at 05:51 PM.
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  #23  
Old 02-12-2015, 09:06 PM
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Darn. Darn darn darn darny darn darn.

In doing up the small bolts at the top of the worm block, the two heads have snapped off.

Insert swear words.

I can see the bolt threads stuck inside the holes, have not gone further to remove the worm blocks to see if I can remove what's left with small pliers but will do that when I can.

Does anyone know what those are so that I can get some replacements? If the worst comes to the worst I'll tap out the remaining bolts with a Dremmel. Buggar
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  #24  
Old 02-12-2015, 11:31 PM
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Just so that I'm clear. I've attached a quick pick with what I think you are talking about re the bolts. I've also shown which ones are sheared. is this right?
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (PMX_Maintenance 043.jpg)
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  #25  
Old 03-12-2015, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by baileys2611 View Post
Just so that I'm clear. I've attached a quick pick with what I think you are talking about re the bolts. I've also shown which ones are sheared. is this right?
No! But, you already saw my post at SB. You need this:

http://www.bisque.com/sc/media/p/75295.aspx

See page 9, step 7

Best of luck!

Peter

PS I'd recommend that you take your mount to an experienced machine shop. They will have the tools and skill to do it right.
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  #26  
Old 03-12-2015, 08:47 PM
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Ok, got it, I see what I haven't done properly. Thanks for that. I also see the bolts are 4-40 so I'll get some more of those tomorrow to replace then ones that I broke.

Now, about those two at the top, the ones I thought I was supposed to be tensioning but got wrong. Are they supposed to be tightened then pulled back 2 - 2.5 turns or are they tightened all the way in?
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  #27  
Old 04-12-2015, 09:06 AM
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[QUOTE=baileys2611;1217640

Now, about those two at the top, the ones I thought I was supposed to be tensioning but got wrong. Are they supposed to be tightened then pulled back 2 - 2.5 turns or are they tightened all the way in?[/QUOTE]

You have adjusted those properly. Only the name was wrong. The 1/4-20s are very important and might be the source of the original slop. Great that you could get the bolts out yourself! Now, don't over tighten. There are many other places that motion could enter the worm so it's highly unlikely that forcing those bolts tight will have any positive impact on your issue.

Peter
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  #28  
Old 04-12-2015, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baileys2611 View Post
Just so that I'm clear. I've attached a quick pick with what I think you are talking about re the bolts. I've also shown which ones are sheared. is this right?
Oh no! There are lots of vids on YouTube to help 'remove stripped screws'. I've used epoxy before, with the Allen key left to set inside the stripped screw.
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  #29  
Old 06-12-2015, 02:35 PM
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Hi Logan,

It's been a bit of a hit and miss for me, but all in all I don't think there's been any damage and when the new screws arrive (ordered from the local supplier) then I will be back to proper working order in no time.

My belts arrived from the US on Friday. That was quite successful. If anyone needs them, I've got two spare and will order some more to stock (just in case).
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  #30  
Old 11-12-2015, 08:55 AM
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Quick update: All repaired, new belts, new grease, new bolts, adjusted using the right things this time and PemPro reported an uncorrected error of 0 to +5 arc seconds (not adjusting x for x drift or y for y drift). After curve calculations the applied error is -0.5 to + 1 (1.5 in total). I still don't know that it's correct because that seems too good to be accurate.

Didn't get a chance to test out the guiding because after that some high level cloud came through and that was then end of good seeing for the evening.

Looking forward to trying it out however, if the reported accuracy is correct then such wow!
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  #31  
Old 15-12-2015, 07:44 PM
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Nope, cannot be right. I'm using pempro 2 and I'm still getting bad tracking.

Which way up should the ccd camera be?
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