#21  
Old 20-12-2009, 06:05 PM
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ejcruz (Eddie)
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You may need to consider a Baader DT-Adapter II T-2/SP54A #2458040 which is a male M54 thread and female M42 thread which will allow you to connect an MPCC or WO P-FLAT III to the filter wheel.

I use Nebulosity to capture, IP to stack/stretch, and PS-C3 for touch up, note both IP and Nebulosity will do LRGB stacking. IP is currently in beta test for QHY9 capturing and control of the QHY filter wheel.

Hope this helps.

Meery XMas
Eddie
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  #22  
Old 20-12-2009, 08:08 PM
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mill (Martin)
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Hi Eddie i have a flat II so that should be ok.
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  #23  
Old 20-12-2009, 08:49 PM
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Martin,
Firstly, Congratulations! You'll love CCD imaging over DSLR work I think.. Processing is different, but you get used to it...

As for LRGB Processing, MaximDL is fantastic, as is CCDSoft.. As for stacking and creating an LRGB image from the individual channels.. This is what I do..

1 - Stack and calibrate the LRGB image sets individually in DSS.
2 - Take the 4 stacked, calibrated images into MaximDL and perform a DDP Stretch on each.
3 - In MaximDL, open the DDP'd images and register them together, so they are all aligned and ready for colour combine.
4 - Colour combine the registered R/G/B images in Photoshop using clipping masks...
5 - Add the luminance image as a layer...
6 - normal processing routine as you would have done for a DSLR image, Sharpen, levels, curves etc..
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  #24  
Old 20-12-2009, 11:08 PM
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That's a lot of back and forth Alex. Do you have maxim5? I've found you can dump everything, even the cal files, in the same directory and maxim5 will sort, calibrate, align, combine and colour convert the lot. I've sometimes done L on it's own first to sharpen it but generally it's a one stop shop so long as the fits headers are right. You know me, the less time in front of a PC the better

Of course that's not with a qhy9, that's with a starlight. Don't know yet if the overscan area from the qhy images will screw me over or not. I'll find out next year I guess

Last edited by Tandum; 20-12-2009 at 11:32 PM.
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  #25  
Old 20-12-2009, 11:39 PM
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Yea, its a lot of back and forth, however it allows me to control the data better... If one channel has a lot more data than another, it allows better control of how far you DDP that channel, rather than just running an arbitrary DDP across the whole colour image..

Yep Im using MaximDL V5, I know it can do all the stacking/calibration work that I do in DSS, but DSS is generally faster at it, as its using 4 processors...

Luminance in my opinion should always be handled separately from RGB data. It requires the most processing out of the 4 channels, and also the most care in processing. Luminance should be sharp, noiseless, yet processed right to the brink of the data set.. you want the most detail and the all the dim areas of the image to really pop in the luminance, but you don't want it to become very noisy etc..

Despite all my back and forth in handling raw files, once its all stacked in DSS, I generally have the image to the point of adding the luminance layer within 10~15 minutes.. it doesnt take long, and that extra bit of care can usually make an appreciable difference.
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  #26  
Old 21-12-2009, 03:18 AM
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I've only been using this mono camera for about 9 months but I find it far more annoying to find and click all the correct cal files for DSS than it is to just get maxim to do it all. Generally, if all the files are good, getting maxim to do the lot works for me. If it looks like crap then I'll go back and fiddle with L. The QHY8 was easier in DSS though, Maxim always had trouble aligning images from it which may have been due to that damn overscan area. I've attached a sample of a maxim run from the 1.3Mp camera taken from the back yard. Looks ok to me.

That said, I guess this is the way to do it.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (M16.jpg)
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  #27  
Old 21-12-2009, 04:39 AM
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Yes indeed Robin, Thats one hell of an image!

Yea Misti's guide is a sure fire way of doing things... Just bookmarked that link

I suppose everyone has their own workflow that suits them... I dare say my workflow will change when the new camera arrives...
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Old 21-12-2009, 05:05 AM
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I too am lazy like Robin, and love the "dump it all into one folder and let Maxim do it".
Couldn't believe my eyes for the first few times.
Gary
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  #29  
Old 21-12-2009, 04:31 PM
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Thank you Alex and Robin for the processing tips, now i can try both or more and see what does it for me
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  #30  
Old 21-12-2009, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tandum View Post
Of course that's not with a qhy9, that's with a starlight. Don't know yet if the overscan area from the qhy images will screw me over or not. I'll find out next year I guess
Works just the same, I love Maxim auto routines

Mark
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  #31  
Old 23-12-2009, 05:13 AM
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Robin - Not like it matters... Got no clear skies to point it at.. (Thats what I'm telling myself with regards to the ST8300 anyway... It helps, Sometimes...)
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  #32  
Old 23-12-2009, 09:34 PM
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Just heard that they have left the factory, so probably next week sometime.
I'd like to get it all working before pointing it at the sky
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  #33  
Old 23-12-2009, 10:08 PM
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Agreed... I got the CFW going in every software suite that I intend to use, basically, when the ST8300 shows up I intend to install drivers, plug it in, shoot a 300 and 600s dark at bin 1 @ -10c in a 20c room.. if all that goes according to plan, load everything into the car and scoot to 10chain hill I estimate that test should take 25 minutes max... I know, not exactly a thorough test, but it will do... I can shoot more darks up there, I can troubleshoot up there if something goes pair shaped.. but I trust everything will go smoothly... Never underestimate the power of positive thought!
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Old 24-12-2009, 12:52 PM
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Just don't do what I did last night. I set up the vixen and my little 80 apo with new ultra slime OAG to try out my new grab an go setup. Polar aligned sweet, tracking sweet, guiding sweet, focus sweet, camera sitting @ -20 on 47% power sweet, all maxium auto routines sweet, go inside and come back 3 hours latter to find ...... I had not plugged in my filter wheel to the camera so I am now the proud owner of 3 hours worth of horsehead and flame nebula in a loverly pastel red . Oh well try again tonight .

Mark
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  #35  
Old 24-12-2009, 02:25 PM
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Ahahahaha!! Nice one Mark!! Just add 3 Hours of G and B, and then maybe 10hrs of Lum and you'll be laughing all the way to the bank..
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Old 24-12-2009, 03:22 PM
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:rofl :
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  #37  
Old 24-12-2009, 05:57 PM
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Ahahahaha!! Nice one Mark!! Just add 3 Hours of G and B, and then maybe 10hrs of Lum and you'll be laughing all the way to the bank..
Problem I have Alex is that I am a great believer in the law of diminishing returns e.g. 65 million hours exposure is only going to be just that little bit better then 3 hours exposure (as long as it is not all red ). There are too many things to image this time of year to spend all your time on a single object. Still my final pic might end up a little too red .

Mark
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  #38  
Old 24-12-2009, 06:15 PM
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just adjust the weight of the red in the image Mark... 3 hours vs 10 hours is easily noticeable... I've tried it a few times.. I've got 20hrs (mixed between OSC and Ha) of M8... If I stack just 2hrs Ha + 1hr OSC the result is far less pleasing than the 8.5hrs Ha + 11.5hrs OSC. What you get as far as illumination of dim areas etc might not change much unless you increase the sub exposure duration, what does change is the smoothness and the ability to run more aggressive sharpening routines without destroying data..
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Old 24-12-2009, 08:26 PM
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Got it in one Robin. He who has the best seeing gets the most detail and best pics. No amount of exposure can make up for crap seeing.

Mark
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Old 24-12-2009, 08:39 PM
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Yes true, seeing plays a big part, and don't take this the wrong way - thats a great image, but it could use more exposure... theres plenty more in that field that you've not brought out yet... That is however more a case of what I was saying before, longer sub exposures vs more elapsed time... 20~30 minute subs will make a big difference to that image, as opposed to more 10 minute subs.. more 10 min subs might not get you much deeper, just give you smoother dim areas, where as 20~30 min subs will get you deeper, but you'll need at least 6 or 7 of them to good smooth signal...

What I, and many others found with the QHY8 is this, Whilst 10 minute subs will get a good image, going 20 minutes is the way to go if your setup can do it... Despite the risks of losing subs due to whatever unforeseen influence, I run the maximum sub duration I can on any occasion with any camera. If im capable of 10 min subs MAX, I run 10min subs. if the setup will do 30 minute subs (which mine does) I run 30 min subs.. SNR is the name of the game, and nothing accumulates signal like raw exposure time.
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