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30-11-2017, 01:48 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Lhires Slit
Is the old LhiresIII chrome slit mount compatible with the newer 4 position slit or do I have to purchase the new slit mount as well?
Also, got a Filly lamp and holder off eBay...another available at
https://www.ebay.com/itm/habitat-fil...QAAOSwJQdXAmK1
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30-11-2017, 08:34 AM
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Spectroscopy Wizard
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St Leonards, Vic
Posts: 5,864
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Stu,
I believe the newer 4 position plate is interchangeable with the original metal slit.
Hmmm Hellava price for a lamp originally selling for 2.50gbp!!!
Such is life.
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30-11-2017, 02:38 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Thanks Ken.
Yes, the Filly lamps are expensive and I haven't seen another "crosses" design bulb anywhere, or any info on the original manufacturing company.
I have however found a possible replacement which uses a standard bulb holder. I have one on its way now so will see if the argon lines are present too.
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30-11-2017, 02:48 PM
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Spectroscopy Wizard
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St Leonards, Vic
Posts: 5,864
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The FILLY lamp design was introduced into Europe and the UK in around 2006 by the Habitat house accessories department store. They went bust and the FILLY lamp(s) went with them....
However, being a persistent Scot I tried to follow up to find if I could trace the original Chinese manufacturer... I finally made contact with the designer/ purchasing person involved with the FILLY concept.
Unfortunately she wanted hundreds of $$$$ to divulge the Chinese source. No guarantee that they would supply me or deal with me - the money was just for a name and contact detail.
I didn't go through with it....
I'm lucky I still have a functional "Blue Cross" - Argon, and a "Roses" - Argon and Neon lamp.
I can share my calibration data if it would help.
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30-11-2017, 03:06 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Wow, sounds like something from a novel with international industry dealings etc.
I have calibration data already from Christians pages and from my Philips S10 mod. It works quite well powered from USB and I have a method to introduce the bulb to the slit in a test tube. Needs refinement though..
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01-12-2017, 08:51 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin66
Stu,
I believe the newer 4 position plate is interchangeable with the original metal slit.
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Heard back from Francois and the new slit holder is required to fit the new 4 position plate..back to the laser pointer/clothes peg/plank of wood slit set up then
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01-12-2017, 08:54 AM
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Spectroscopy Wizard
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St Leonards, Vic
Posts: 5,864
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I have one of the original Shelyak metal slits and a 4 slit plate (for test purposes) - I thought I'd hear they were interchangeable - sorry for the wrong info.....
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03-12-2017, 01:59 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin66
I have one of the original Shelyak metal slits and a 4 slit plate (for test purposes) - I thought I'd hear they were interchangeable - sorry for the wrong info.....
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No apology required sir. Hell, "wrong info" Ken? You wrote the book many of us spectroscopists follow! Available online at all the good outlets...
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08-12-2017, 09:53 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuTodd
Heard back from Francois and the new slit holder is required to fit the new 4 position plate..back to the laser pointer/clothes peg/plank of wood slit set up then 
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You can buy the new holder too though and it will fit the older LHIRES. It adds to the total cost but the mirror slit itself is already the major cost item. Is it worth upgrading? If your metal slit is in good condition, possibly not unless you change your slit width often or need the dual width photometric slit. It is actually less reflective than the metal slit and does not suffer from the ghost images that the mirror slit produces.
Robin
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08-12-2017, 08:47 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Hi Robin.
My chrome is scratched on both my old slit plates but is still useable for guiding. I can't seem to get the transversalium causing muck off the slit though.
I thought the newer one would be better, crisper and more reflective. A sit costs quite a lot, I think i'll stick to my old trusty slits.
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08-12-2017, 08:49 PM
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Spectroscopy Wizard
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St Leonards, Vic
Posts: 5,864
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Have you tried the wooden toothpick solution?
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08-12-2017, 09:00 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin66
Have you tried the wooden toothpick solution?
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I have but i'm worried about chipping or damaging the edges? Can they take a little pressure Ken?
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08-12-2017, 09:17 PM
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Spectroscopy Wizard
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St Leonards, Vic
Posts: 5,864
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The stainless steel is much harder than a wooden toothpick!
I use it regularly on my metal slits......
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08-12-2017, 10:57 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Yes. I'm cautious about touching expensive things Ken! I'll try to get an image of the scratches through the guide cam and main camera to compare notes with you and Robin. See what you think..
Last edited by StuTodd; 08-12-2017 at 11:38 PM.
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11-12-2017, 07:29 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 263
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Well, this is a portion of one slit. The jaw edge seems chipped or damaged in some way. I think it is just the plating as the spectral lines are nice.
http://imgur.com/a/FXiNM
Stu
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11-12-2017, 08:21 AM
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Spectroscopy Wizard
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St Leonards, Vic
Posts: 5,864
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Hmmm,
The original Shelyak slit was polished stainless slit plates - no plating(!)
Anyway, I think you'll see the difference in the one I send.
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