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Old 24-04-2012, 10:26 PM
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Who has a QHY11?

I've sold my qhy9 and want to move to a qhy11 but can't find anything from any users on line.

I'm wondering how bad the dewing problems are with it and how often, if at all, you need to strip it to clean the sensor?

I can't seem to find any astro images from it on line either.
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Old 24-04-2012, 11:01 PM
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Surely this would have the sealed chamber that the new qhy10 and qhy8 Pro cameras have. These are supposed to be completely sealed so that there are no icing or moisture problems that the older cameras were supposed to have.
Surely Theo could give a quick answer to this question.
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Old 24-04-2012, 11:10 PM
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Theo tells me people are seeing dewing on the front window.
That's why I'm asking for info from people who own one.
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Old 25-04-2012, 01:08 PM
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Robin

I have one in my possession since last month end - however due to some logistical issues I had in procuring the "right" adaptors to connect the STX FW to my QHY11 & TS OAG, I still haven't had a chance to test/use the camera at all

I'm looking for a "local" (any one in Oz not only WA who knows about astro thread sizings) machinist who can machine the right sized adaptors to fit - prefer not to have to go to Precise Parts for a simple stepped ring with male/female threads and pay zillions!

However I noted that I could instead ignore the FW and use my VC200L with a 2" nosepiece from the camera side so will attempt to use it this way - of course without any filters but I do have a Ha filter that will fit at the nosepiece end!

Like yourself I was looking around the web for images/reviews and even posted on SGL with no response whatsoever but after getting some samples from Theo and talking to him (he has a track record of looking after his customers as we all know) I pulled the pin - originally I was looking at the Moravian G3 series with FW etc but cost was aro $6K++

The overall camera seems well made though hasn't got the slick finish that others have but it is not as heavy as I thought it would be! Looking forward to trying it out soon

HTH
Cheers
Bill

PS: Ooh! Oh! - I didn't like it when I read about the "dewing issues on the front window" bit - Theo did not say that was the case to me - apparently I the first one in WA to have purchased this model from him!

Last edited by Visionoz; 25-04-2012 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Added postscript!
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Old 25-04-2012, 02:24 PM
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Dont' mean to hijack the thread here. Bill, most the threads on CCD camera's are 0.75mm in pitch regardless of diameter and are absolute sods to cut on a lathe as it is difficult to get proper depth (~ 1.25mm) using a standard 60 degree thread cutting tool whilst retaining the correct thread form. I have cut a few but have never been really satisfied with the result as they are either too tight a fit and bind due to lack of depth or too loose through overcutting the thread to reduce friction. When I get time I intend to grind a purpose built set to carve internal and external threads to the right profile but these will be very delicate as the cutting tip and shoulder will only be 0.75 mm max width. What is worse is that only 6061T6 ali or the british equililant HE30 seem to be able to cope with the cutting pressure with all other grades and tempers of ali I have tried simply tearing away as the thread is formed. I believe the threads on most comercial bits and pieces are roll formed giving the unique pitch and depth characteristics present. I have found there seems to be little consistency between manufacturers from different countries for example my german made astronomiks filters bind in both the QHY and FLI filterwheels and the american built bits seem to bind with anything other than US made components and even this has shown to be a bit hit and miss. Steve at my astroshop or Mogg adaptors might be able to help. There is also another mob whose name I cannot remember but folks around here have mentioned them before.

Mark
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Old 25-04-2012, 02:29 PM
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Cheers Bill, Theo read this thread and messaged me. He had a typo in a previous message to me which said 'people are having issues' instead of 'people are not having issues'

What adapter are you after? I have an M54 M->M coming from truetek in the UK for GBP16 posted. They list it as a M54M-M and there is an image of it down the bottom of this page.
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Old 26-04-2012, 12:17 AM
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@Marki
Yep Mark, well understand about the resultant "rough" cut of the threads from non-T6061 material - had a very good mate who has all the gear inc lathe, mill etc try to do one for me and I sacrificed one of my old adaptor (you know that the best way to cut a threaded adaptor is to use an actual one for a template) and yep it wasn't any good - plus wanting to buy a small length of an ali round bar can be an exercise to say the least; had gone to Alcan and said I wanted just a 200mm length of 75mm diameter ali RB and it took the bugger something like 25mins to work out that it would cost me $35!! but I finally grabbed the piece and ran out before he might just take another 25mins to tell me that it was the wrong price!!
My mate finally did say to me he had to custom-grind a bit to suit the 0.75 pitch and he's kept it aside with my name tagged to it, unfortunately he can't do anymore for me till after October 2012 because he's gone out of Perth!
Agreed to that fact there's really no standard to all the threads we use in astro gears and experienced exactly what you described - couldn't match the T2 thread of the adaptor from TS yet it fitted the T2 thread of the StarShoot AG but not the T2 of my STX FW - go figure!

@Tandum
Thanks Robin for the information - Phew! glad that Theo did make a typo though I wouldn't have picked a bone with him until I actually experienced issue of that nature!! Heheh! Good one though, what a relief!

Thanks too for the link to the M54M/M adaptor source
Hmmm! That filterwheel carousel looks very similar to the StarlightXpress' one - wonder if they are interchangeable at all - do you know? -but it is good to know if there's an alternative for the "just-in-case" type of scenario

I've got my Baader NBs + LRGB but unable to use it at the moment because it is 50.4mm and having the issue sorted out anyway, waiting for the right ones to arrive - though from the website and reading something that says "NEW - the original 50mm version has now been adjusted to allow 50.8mm (2 inch) unmounted filters to be fitted." one can infer that the new ones are all made to fit 50.8mm filters, however it seems that this is not so but an option!! Didn't think that my English comprehension is that poor! The important thing is that both the dealer and myself are out of pocket!!
But it was good of the dealer to sort it out for me immediately so I'm happy about that except I can't do anything about the loss of time

Cheers
Bill

Last edited by Visionoz; 26-04-2012 at 01:40 AM. Reason: Changed dimension of filter's diameter
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Old 26-04-2012, 09:04 AM
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No, the truetek wheel is different to the sx. It opens like a bread box so you can change carousels with the whole show still on the telescope.

It looks like sx has both a 2" and a 50.8 unmounted carousel instead of combining them into one. They aren't expensive but I did have to wait months to get a 7x36mm delivered

I'll be using a qhy wheel here.
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Old 26-04-2012, 02:00 PM
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Robin

Check with Theo about the QHY FW - my understanding from him was that it is not suitable for the QHY11

Re: Truetek, Yep understood about the access to the carousel - but they seem to be the same size as the STX ones from the pixs - OK that's burnt the idea then

So I am going to have to wait a long time then eh? What other FW wheels would suit the M54 fitting that I could get to use temporarily? - Damn! I should have bought the standard 2" mounted filters - Aaaargh!! Better get in touch with Theo to re-adjust my warranty time as I still haven't had a chance to even turn it on yet!

HTH
Cheers
Bill
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Old 26-04-2012, 02:49 PM
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Not Suitable? I can't understand why, so long as the motor box is pointing forward. I've messaged him and he replied saying it will work ok, it just needs a M54 M->M adapter. He also said a link cable is pending from QHY to connect the wheel to the camera like the qhy9 does.

I'm pretty sure the qhy wheel will do unmounted. I seem to remember my original wheel coming with plastic screws for them. The web site says it will do up to 50.8mm unmounted. If you have unmounted baader filters then they should be 50.8mm. I believe astrodon, sbig and others supply 50mm unmounted. Looking at this link to opt http://www.optcorp.com/product.aspx?...-327-339-16791 the 50.8mm sx carousel is preorder just like my 7x36mm was and it took 4 months to arrive I doubt claude in SA will have stock of them, you'd have to ring him.

Unmounted filters are a lot easier to clean etc. I'd keep them if I where you.

I won't be getting a qhy11 till the end of may. Got to do a trip to NZ before theo gets new stock.

Last edited by Tandum; 26-04-2012 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 26-04-2012, 06:33 PM
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Robin

I'll shut up about the QHY FW as I don't own one and repeating what I thought I "heard" could lead one to all sorts of trouble!!

BTW the Baader filters I got shows 50.4mm on the packaging label - see attached pix

Wonder if I been given a bum steer or there are various sizes and I got those with the funny sizes

Cheers
Bill
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Old 26-04-2012, 07:34 PM
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Dont' mean to hijack the thread here. Bill, most the threads on CCD camera's are 0.75mm in pitch regardless of diameter and are absolute sods to cut on a lathe as it is difficult to get proper depth (~ 1.25mm) using a standard 60 degree thread cutting tool whilst retaining the correct thread form. I have cut a few but have never been really satisfied with the result as they are either too tight a fit and bind due to lack of depth or too loose through overcutting the thread to reduce friction. When I get time I intend to grind a purpose built set to carve internal and external threads to the right profile but these will be very delicate as the cutting tip and shoulder will only be 0.75 mm max width. What is worse is that only 6061T6 ali or the british equililant HE30 seem to be able to cope with the cutting pressure with all other grades and tempers of ali I have tried simply tearing away as the thread is formed. I believe the threads on most comercial bits and pieces are roll formed giving the unique pitch and depth characteristics present. I have found there seems to be little consistency between manufacturers from different countries for example my german made astronomiks filters bind in both the QHY and FLI filterwheels and the american built bits seem to bind with anything other than US made components and even this has shown to be a bit hit and miss. Steve at my astroshop or Mogg adaptors might be able to help. There is also another mob whose name I cannot remember but folks around here have mentioned them before.

Mark

Have you tried these:

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L031

I've cut quite a few 0.7 and 0.75mm threads in 6061T6 with them and they seem to work fine if you take it slowly.
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Old 26-04-2012, 08:13 PM
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Robin

I'll shut up about the QHY FW as I don't own one and repeating what I thought I "heard" could lead one to all sorts of trouble!!

BTW the Baader filters I got shows 50.4mm on the packaging label - see attached pix

Wonder if I been given a bum steer or there are various sizes and I got those with the funny sizes

Cheers
Bill
If you look at the baader web site price list, they show 50.4mm. Maybe the ones on opt are old stock?
You better check with starlight which carousel is the right one.
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Old 26-04-2012, 10:23 PM
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Have you tried these:

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L031

I've cut quite a few 0.7 and 0.75mm threads in 6061T6 with them and they seem to work fine if you take it slowly.

Yes Peter I have the 12mm set to suit the lathe. I am not happy with the thread form in the fine pitch's so am going to grind my own. I am finding cobalt tool steel cuts a lot cleaner then the carbide tips as the speeds are too low.

Cheers

Mark
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Old 27-04-2012, 05:51 AM
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Yes Peter I have the 12mm set to suit the lathe. I am not happy with the thread form in the fine pitch's so am going to grind my own. I am finding cobalt tool steel cuts a lot cleaner then the carbide tips as the speeds are too low.

Cheers

Mark
In my experience it depends how deep you cut each pass so I now take 4 or 5 passes to cut these threads trying the fit between each pass as I've also found there is a huge variety in t-threads between different manufacturers. I always run the final cut twice at the same depth setting. I finish off with some very fine wet and dry over the top of the thread to round off the ridges as the cutting tool won't do this.

I'm running the lathe at min RPM (70 I think) when cutting threads.
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Old 27-04-2012, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by peter_4059 View Post
In my experience it depends how deep you cut each pass so I now take 4 or 5 passes to cut these threads trying the fit between each pass as I've also found there is a huge variety in t-threads between different manufacturers. I always run the final cut twice at the same depth setting. I finish off with some very fine wet and dry over the top of the thread to round off the ridges as the cutting tool won't do this.

I'm running the lathe at min RPM (70 I think) when cutting threads.
Peter I never cut more than 0.2mm for the grunt runs and back down to 0.1mm for the finsh and cleanup runs. As I set my compound at 29 degrees to enable the tool to cut on one face only a cut of 1 mm deep takes about 8 or 9 runs to complete. The threads are clean and sharp this way but the V profile of the cabide tool at 60 deg does not match the rounded thread profile of rolled threads. I have bought a very expensive D Bit grinder which allows the sharpening of drills, mill bits etc etc. It also has attachments that allow precise grinding of both carbide and HSS steel forms for lathe cutting tools as it has a diamond wheel. I intend to produce both internal and external thread cutting tools which deliver the round profile present in many of these metric fine threads used on astro gear. It's not that my threads wont work, I am just one of those painful people who accepts nothing less then perfection in my own workmanship as those who have watched me make the block for my miniture V8 (3" long) have witnessed. I binned 7 attempts (about 50 hours each) before I was finally satisfied with both the accuracy (tolerences) and the finished appearence. I have no problems cutting other pitched threads using the standard tool but the thread form used on astro gear is not standard thus a new tool has to be made. Same if I wanted to cut ACME or ball thread forms, gotta have the right tool for the job.

Sorry Robin I will go away now

Mark
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Old 28-04-2012, 08:33 AM
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As I set my compound at 29 degrees to enable the tool to cut on one face only
The Hare&Forbes carbide thread cutting tools are preformed at 60deg for metric threads so I'm struggling to understand how rotating it is ever going to make a thread that fits? I set mine square.
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Old 28-04-2012, 12:38 PM
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The Hare&Forbes carbide thread cutting tools are preformed at 60deg for metric threads so I'm struggling to understand how rotating it is ever going to make a thread that fits? I set mine square.
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Old 30-04-2012, 06:13 AM
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I've sold my qhy9 and want to move to a qhy11 but can't find anything from any users on line.

I'm wondering how bad the dewing problems are with it and how often, if at all, you need to strip it to clean the sensor?

I can't seem to find any astro images from it on line either.


I have a QHY 11. I bought it more than a year ago. I use it frequently. I solved the dewing problem by pumping air trough the center/tilt adjust ring. I bought a couple of cheap pumps for fish tanks/aquariums in BigW.

I have not cleaned the sensor yet.

Regards,

Enrique
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Old 30-04-2012, 10:51 AM
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Cheers Enrique, looks like there may be an issue.
Do you have a pic of how you solved it?
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