It looks pretty sharp there Greg
Does the focuser have a way of correcting for tilt? It looks like you have some on the left side of the frame. With the star size difference you may find it difficult getting a nice merge between the frames for a mosaic.
Colour is a little bright, but, gee that's a uber-sharp piece of glass. Most excellent
Yeah I am finding my feet here with regards to colour with these DSLR type images. A lot on the net tend to be very colourful. I've pulled it back a little and it may still be too colourful. A hard call sometimes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atmos
It looks pretty sharp there Greg
Does the focuser have a way of correcting for tilt? It looks like you have some on the left side of the frame. With the star size difference you may find it difficult getting a nice merge between the frames for a mosaic.
With a mosaic I overlap at least 25% and by then the stars are good, it won't be a problem.
No the lens itself is like any lens but it does end in an M48 male threaded end. You attach your T ring and mount it in your camera.
I have bought a tilt/tip adapter for it from Teleskop Services and will be adding it to before the T ring. I think I'll get one of those new copper T Rings William Optics are selling as well for even stronger and more accurate attachment. This type of optic is going to be sensitive to tilt and also its quite long and slightly heavy so that will put pressure on the mount.
On my ML16 I have it fully corrected and supported so round stars to the corners there.
With a mosaic I overlap at least 25% and by then the stars are good, it won't be a problem.
No the lens itself is like any lens but it does end in an M48 male threaded end. You attach your T ring and mount it in your camera.
I have bought a tilt/tip adapter for it from Teleskop Services and will be adding it to before the T ring. I think I'll get one of those new copper T Rings William Optics are selling as well for even stronger and more accurate attachment. This type of optic is going to be sensitive to tilt and also its quite long and slightly heavy so that will put pressure on the mount.
On my ML16 I have it fully corrected and supported so round stars to the corners there.
Greg.
That's interesting to note. I've usually been dealing with 10-15% overlap myself and found that tilt leads to irritating registration errors when merging the panels together. An external tip/tilt adapter will certainly help
The focuser on my Sky Rover has 3 screws on it that allow for the change of focuser collimation. They're fiddling and don't fine tune well out in the field but I've found doing it inside with a 2" Glatter and circular holographic a quick and easy way of getting it bang on at F/5.
That's interesting to note. I've usually been dealing with 10-15% overlap myself and found that tilt leads to irritating registration errors when merging the panels together. An external tip/tilt adapter will certainly help
The focuser on my Sky Rover has 3 screws on it that allow for the change of focuser collimation. They're fiddling and don't fine tune well out in the field but I've found doing it inside with a 2" Glatter and circular holographic a quick and easy way of getting it bang on at F/5.
That's interesting about adjusting it inside. I'll have to check that out.
With the Microline I had to pack out the Redcat 51 about twice as much as I had to with the Pentax 645 lens.