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Old 17-10-2019, 07:17 PM
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mura_gadi (Steve)
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advice on my dodgy tool-free setup (8" newt)

Hello,

I want to try and get star tests into my setup routine. After having to do both the secondary and primary mirror collimation alignment on my 2nd hand 8" collapsible. I've been sluggish about collimation and checked once in 2 months with the laser. (still pretty good even with long road trips, but the size of the collimation sweet spot is what swung me between 8/10 inch newts)

But no more, but now for star test and final collimation.

The telescope is stored on end when not in use. Worried about my tool-free bolts taking any weight, I fixed up a backing board to let me rest on and to gap to the new tool-free collimation bolt heads.

About to start final touches and thought to read few a few articles here,

One question, some people seem to choose the "hex key" lock bolts to replace, and not the Phillips head collimator bolts. I thought it would be easier to loosen the hex locks screws, collimate with your fingers, then tighten up the hex lock bolts again.

Do you risk moving the mirror if you don't lock down evenly after collimation? Or have I missed something? I'm new to astronomy and woodwork,so all advice is welcome.

Attached a picture showing one tool-free nob, (little more sanding to make room for the hex key) and the backing plate attached.


thanks
S.

Ps. M5 x 25mm socket head for the collimation bolts as they had a grooved exterior around the bolt head and got me over the rim. M3 x 50mm for the bolts to the resting plate with 12.7mm dowel sleaves.
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Old 17-10-2019, 09:27 PM
Wavytone
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When stored which end is up ? Primary or secondary ?

The other thing is the wood used looks like solid pine - that will warp across the grain. Plywood would have been a much better choice.
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Old 18-10-2019, 02:12 AM
Ukastronomer (Jeremy)
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Why would you

"Do you risk moving the mirror if you don't lock down evenly after collimation"

Who would you be heavy handed, mine are just... just tight
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