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Old 10-03-2015, 11:21 PM
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TechnoViking (James)
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Formula's for astrophotography?

Hi All,

Its been a fair while since I have posted, we have had some pretty horrible cloudy nights here on the south coast, 2 nights ago I saw the stars for the first time since christmas!! .

I have a question about imaging, I have scoured the forums to find a definitive answer, but the question probably doesn't have an exact answer.

Is there a formula for astrophotography? for example Bright nebulae: 20 x 3minute subs @ 800ISO, or galaxies: 20 x 5 minute subs @ 1600iso?

I am asking this question because I would like to compile a quick reference guide for astrophotography, so that I know if im shooting M42 i know exactly what I setting i should be using. I am guessing a lot of the camera settings are dependent on what scope you are using and any accessories etc

I just seem to find my images are either too dark, not enough detail, or ive blown out the core of the nebula. See attached picture of NGC253. (only an example , no darks/flats)

Im using a 925CGEM + Orion 80st Guide Scope and QHY5 + F6.3 focal reducer/corrector and a Canon 600D

Because my clear nights here have been so far and in between I would love some kind of basic rule so I can maximize my time in the observatory.

It could well also be my processing abilities, which are lacking some what. Post processing after registax 6 i only use Lightroom to expose and adjust colours.

Anyway, any input will be greatly appreciated!
A huge thank you in advance
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Old 11-03-2015, 06:22 AM
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ZeroID (Brent)
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Nope, not as far as I've found out. Due to the incredible differences in mag and size and conditions, filter required or not, you name it, there are no definitive rules.

But !! What I have been doing lately is taking consistent notes and numbers down of all imaging sessions, Drew up an excel Spreadsheet with boxes for almost every conceivable piece of data and from that I am getting better results as I can reference back to what worked and translate it to new targets. I also have a programmed test sequence that can be run first, increasing exposures to find the optimal starting point if necessary.
A good starting point is to get 'Imaging the Southern Sky'. It identifies, images and gives basic stats on what was used. The writers used a specific setup but from that you can work out what is possible within your own setup and location and get some idea of the exposures times and setup required. Having got my own system working reasonably well now it is giving me new targets and numbers to try.

With the 102mm ED Lunt, the 450D @ ISO 1600, my start point is a 20 or 30 sec exposure which confirms target , focus etc and I work from there. Last night 60-90 secs was the optimal point.

BTW: I don't see too much wrong with your image, better than I've acheived so far.

As I said there is no definitive rules but once you have a stable setup you can write your own to suit. The data recording is critical.
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:49 PM
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TechnoViking (James)
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I guessed this would be the case, I have written down a few settings, the hardest part is trying to find out if its my image settings or if its my post processing. From my understanding, if you have enough data you should not need to mess with the image in paintshop too much.

The image i took of NGC253 was 20 x 2 minute subs, see this is what im a little confused by, I have been told the more data the better, but at what point does it become too much data? is there such thing as too many shots? Is 20 x 2 minute subs good? or is 10 x 4 minute subs better?

Last edited by TechnoViking; 11-03-2015 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:56 AM
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ZeroID (Brent)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechnoViking View Post
I guessed this would be the case, I have written down a few settings, the hardest part is trying to find out if its my image settings or if its my post processing. From my understanding, if you have enough data you should not need to mess with the image in paintshop too much.

The image i took of NGC253 was 20 x 2 minute subs, see this is what im a little confused by, I have been told the more data the better, but at what point does it become too much data? is there such thing as too many shots? Is 20 x 2 minute subs good? or is 10 x 4 minute subs better?
Basically more is better. Nebula are surprisingly dim, you would need 10's of hours to get a visible image if them without stretching the stacked images first in most cases. What I look for is enough histogram 'volume' to the left to show some width on the luminance scale so I know there are plenty of photons to start with. Usually only about 10% or a bit less.

I do a first levels stretch which then shows me if there is an image hiding in the blackness. If it stays black then go get more photons. You'll need a bucket, a light bucket .
I then do another stretch if necessary to get enough image to see some
grey levels and a bit of colour hopefully and then work in the curves section to get it to a usable point using Photoshop 2.

Rolf ( Skyviking) has done images with 120 hours of exposure.
My M42 attempts have been a minimum of 45 mins, it is quite bright but could easily take another hour or two of exposure.
Same for Eta Carina NGC 3372 or more even. This is at ISO 1600 but I'm shifting down to either ISO 800 or even 400 to reduce noise effects so my exposures are going to double at least.

If you pm me your email address I can send my spread sheet through so you can see what I am currently logging. It is still a work in progress and in some cases the info is almost irrelevant, barograph readings for example and humidity but long term they become important when you are trying to beat ambient temp problems and dewing on lenses\mirrors.
Important ones to you at present are # of frames @ ISO xxx and duration xxx secs but also recording the aperture and f# of the scope + barlow or filter. Camera type, settings, software used for capture. Guide scope\hardware\software settings. The list goes on.

I'm bad at logging details but having it at my fingertips with a set format has already made a difference to how I work in the OB. And I don't forget things at power up time.

Process is stack it, save it, stretch it to a useful level then work on copies of it. I've gone back to some of my older images and reworked them in the light of new skills and knowledge. It just takes time and patience. Notes help

PM me if you want a copy.

p.s. NGC 253 ( Sculptor ) needs a couple of hours at least, it's dimmer than most nebula and hs low surface luminance.
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:34 AM
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Yeah looks pretty good to me too looks like you've got your polar alignment and tracking nailed!

Like Brent says, it needs more data... galaxies are faint because they're very very far away. Even the bright ones. The more data you gather, the more you'll reduce the noise and consequently the more you'll be able to stretch the levels and curves to bring out the faint parts without highlighting the noise too much.

The key is down to experimentation. Once you get the hang of it, you'll only need to take one sub to get an idea of what settings you can get away with. Ultimately, your goal is to collect as much signal as possible with as little noise as possible. It's a challenge Oh and if you want another experiment, take the reducer out of your optical train and take a couple of subs at f/10 and see how the focal ratio affects the signal you collect.

I use a 1100D and find I can get away with ISO 1600 when the weather is cooler, like below 10C. I find it the best signal-to-noise spot for my camera. When it's warmer, I reduce the exposure length to keep the noise down, although to be fair I haven't had much success this summer

Also, take a look at the other threads in this section about stacking, how many subs, etc, as it's interesting reading.
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:40 PM
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scagman (John)
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Hi James,

Don't know if you have seen the thread in the "beginners astro" section http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=132352. Its got some good examples of what more subs do to an image.

Cheers
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