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  #21  
Old 02-06-2020, 12:16 PM
jamespierce (James)
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Totally agreed Paul - A battery powered silicon gun was one of the most useful tools during the build (10 full tubes of silicon and some sikaflex to mount things too). Along with a 2m spirit level - as you say, getting the ring perfectly level (and perfectly round) makes everything else work easily.

And yes the two halves of the clam shell require some strength and a little technique to lift into place! Happy to share any more details of my build if it helps you in the future Paul. The light panel setup works extremely well and only requires a small electrical modification to trigger using the light circuit - no other holes or permanent changes to the dome required.
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  #22  
Old 02-06-2020, 01:10 PM
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Paul Haese
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Originally Posted by jamespierce View Post
And yes the two halves of the clam shell require some strength and a little technique to lift into place! Happy to share any more details of my build if it helps you in the future Paul. The light panel setup works extremely well and only requires a small electrical modification to trigger using the light circuit - no other holes or permanent changes to the dome required.
The use of glazing suction handles works well in dealing with the weight and ungainly nature of the panels.

There is a possible 5m dome installation coming up in the next year or so. Crane hire will be needed to lift the panels.

I would be interested in the mod wiring detail. It never occurred to me use a panel in that spot.
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  #23  
Old 02-06-2020, 05:13 PM
jamespierce (James)
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Originally Posted by Paul Haese View Post
I would be interested in the mod wiring detail. It never occurred to me use a panel in that spot.
You can see the main details in this photo - http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/a...hmentid=259133

Physically the shutter controller and the extra box above are both mounted on off cuts of the synthetic deck material. You need to use a sander on the boards to roughly match the curve of the wall at the ends and then rough up the wall just a little to attach with grey sikaflex. I've mounted a few things on the dome like this (overhead light and camera as well). It sticks very well, and avoids new holes. Once it's mounted you can just things into it like it was made of timber.

Electrically a 240v --> 12V LED driver (The unit top left) is wired into the light circuit of the shutter controller. This lets you turn the panel on and off via ASCOM or the ScopeDome.exe commandline interface. Or you can just do it using the interface if you are doing your flats manually.

For the overhead light I just tap 240v from the isolation box (bottom right) and have a simple light switch mounted into the extra box (top right). The other extra wiring you can see running up the cable routing on the wall is the power supply for the Nest camera - also wired into the 240v tapped off the isolation box. The whole thing is done with waterproof cable glands and a waterproof box to keep it safe even when it gets damp.
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  #24  
Old 05-06-2020, 02:32 PM
RugbyRene (Rene)
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Originally Posted by jamespierce View Post
8 x 30min Ha Subs.
Calibrated, stacked and very gently processed.
Eccentricity of 0.5
FWHM of 2.5


Conditions were ok but not great.
I am stunned by the detail in that photo! Well done.

I have a dream to one-day set-up my own remote observatory.

Rene
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2020, 07:51 PM
TrevorW
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Me too but I think LOTTO would help
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