re RO and Dome

[Star Hunter]

Hi guys, thought I'd wade in here to say that whether its a RO or dome, anything that can house and protect our beloved toys, is a Godsend. It doesn't need to be flash or expensive. From Roll Off's that peel the roof back in one or two halves or the whole building on rails, to a single to double shutter domes or a clam-shell type, as long as you can access the sky and close up and secure afterwards, is the key to success.

Over the past 40 years, I've given away dozens of Obs. designs in all shapes and sizes. My first was dome was in '78 in the form of a 4.5m dome that rotated on a steel curved 100 x 10mm flat bar and groves wheels. After 12 years of use, I sold it. At the same time, I built the Manly (bayside suburb of Brisbane) Flip-Top, which was a 3 x 4m garden shed. I made the curved roof in two halves using 40 x 40 x 5 mm angle iron and sheeted it. To lower each half, I used a powered boat winch on the N and S side. I had a small house block so size was the main point.

Now I'm retired, I have on our 5 acres out in the bush, a 3.6m and a 2.3m Sirius dome, a 6 x 6m RO and a 4 x 3m RO all of which are robotic. At out commercial operated Kingaroy Observatory at the town's airport, I have an 8 x 5 m RO roof Obs. that houses 3 Meade LX200 GPS 14's for the public enjoyment of the night skies. The roof rolls back on inverted angle iron and Vee CI wheels under the roof, which has a Rack and Pinion powered by a hydraulic pump and gearbox. The roof weighed a ton and takes 1.3 mins. to open. All our steel buildings are painted with a white Thermal paint, which reflects 35% of UV rays. If your'e gonna house your toys, you have to keep them cool!

If you're into S/S obs/imaging then a small dome is all you need. If you're into DS obs/imaging then you need a low wall profile RO either in one or two halves.

If you have the space and $$$'s to spend, then go for it, but why build a slow going ocean liner just for comfort, when a cruiser has speed, and comfort!

Diameters of domes, RO's etc are governed by $$$'s, space, materials used and what size scope is being used (or will be used) once completed.

My Rule of Thumb for the width of the building is simply place your OTA in the Horiz. position facing E/W and then add 1 - 2m on either side. So if your OTA is say, 1500 long, the the internal dia. is 3.5 - 5.5m. If its only 600 long then its smaller. Never skimp on space around your scope. If you'r stuck for land space and $$'s then a simple modified 3 x 3m garden shed with a sliding or flipped roof, should suffice. Just my 2 cents worth.

Jim

[ZeroID (Brent)]

+1
My cheap Chinese made tin shed with simple push back sliding roof's was the best move to getting use out of my gear. I can be up and ready to go in about 20 mins max and shut down in 10 if necessary. Mine is DIY Heath Robison and McGyver all combined in construction. Cost me maybe $700 all up and most of that was the cheap $400 shed.
The advantage and value of already being setup and aligned cannot be stressed too much. And it's much easier on your gear not being pulled apart after every session.

[Star Hunter]

Originally Posted by ZeroID

+1
My cheap Chinese made tin shed with simple push back sliding roof's was the best move to getting use out of my gear. I can be up and ready to go in about 20 mins max and shut down in 10 if necessary. Mine is DIY Heath Robison and McGyver all combined in construction. Cost me maybe $700 all up and most of that was the cheap $400 shed.
The advantage and value of already being setup and aligned cannot be stressed too much. And it's much easier on your gear not being pulled apart after every session.

Yep, simple systems is the way to go mate. Good on ya.