MyT regrease and new astro shed

[Paul Haese]

Originally Posted by SimmoW

And adjustment pins? Which ones? Not that I ever want to touch such things

That is the cam stops which need to be adjusted correctly to stop the worm from separating from the worm. There are several PDF's on SB site which detail the removal and replacement of the worm block and the adjustment of the cam stops.

[SimmoW (SIMON)]

Thanks Paul, found this long and useful thread with links to the PDF, will test and then pull apart if needed. I have spent months trying to minimise movement in my system, very frustrating. So thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions!

[SimmoW (SIMON)]

http://www.bisque.com/sc/forums/p/29...83.aspx#149783

[Lognic04 (Logan)]

Originally Posted by SimmoW

Yes the yearly requirement is common knowledge, I could get away with every 2 I hope, esp once the shed is done. I've imaged in the ASV dark site regularly and it is very dusty. You're right tho, we shouldn't have to do it that regularly!


Younger Logan- you just need to be patient, get your 1600 first before you start pushing after an Obsy! I waited over 40yrs to buy my first telescope

Yep, patience is a weak point for me!

[SimmoW (SIMON)]

Paul and others, here is the Dec axis (I think), is the movement of the worm assembly normal?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ojI...w?usp=drivesdk

[PRejto (Peter)]

Simon,

The up/down motion is entirely normal with the cover removed. When the cover is on and the cam stop adjusted properly the worm is engaged with the ring gear. In balance mode the worm is separated from the ring gear (such as the natural state with the cover removed). The critical thing is that the cam not be adjusted too tight. I.e., it shouldn't take much force to turn the knob from balance to run! (But, also caution if too loose because any imbalance might cause the worm to ratchet over the ring gear!). The next adjustment concerns the plungers (the two vertical screws). The default position is 2.5 turns out. I have found that less tension is often better in the following situations.

1. Observe guiding and see if declination corrections are causing simultaneous RA excursions. This can be a sign of "stiction" and reducing plunger tension can eliminate the RA excursions. One good way to know if dec corrections are messing with RA is just to turn off dec corrections and see if RA improves.

2. If after fixing declination guiding RA continues to be rough try slowly backing off the plungers by 1/4 - 1/2 turn. I have seen huge improvements doing this. I think this works because the ring gear is not perfectly circular. Some spots may be a little higher than others so when the plungers are too tight the worm struggles just a bit as it moves over over these "bumps." Reduce plunger tension and the worm starts to glide. To make the plunger adjustments you don't need to remove the cover. Just pull out the rubber plug in the housing. You can easily make adjustments with the mount running.

Peter

[SimmoW (SIMON)]

Wow thanks Peter, they are great suggestions.

I did a fair bit of imaging last night, but sadly the problem still exists. You were right Paul! The Dec balance was poor however due to side by side guidescope setup and heavy Pentax 200mm lens on other

Will post screenpics later

So I will have to try all your suggestions everyone, before I dare to approach the SB forums...

Thanks again

[SimmoW (SIMON)]

This was the better part of last night's session, maybe not too bad with the side by side guidescope and poor balance? But at 4 mins all my stars were quite elongated
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B76...w?usp=drivesdk

[Lognic04 (Logan)]

Huh, my CGEM gets guiding that good!

[SimmoW (SIMON)]

Yep that's the issue Logan. It's capable of far better and frankly makes my scopes useless until resolved. It's just a test of my resolve, he/she/it will not stop me

[Lognic04 (Logan)]

Originally Posted by SimmoW

Yep that's the issue Logan. It's capable of far better and frankly makes my scopes useless until resolved. It's just a test of my resolve, he/she/it will not stop me

Ah i see.

[PRejto (Peter)]

Simon,

I just read your post at SB re the broken USB mini plug on the MKS5000. That is most unfortunate! The standard response from SB will be to replace the MKS5000. There are no instructions on repair, however, it has been done and done recently though I can't locate that post. You just need to locate an experienced electronics person with the capability. Perhaps start asking around at JayCar if anyone knows such a person. For sure explore that option before dropping the funds for a new board. BTW, the design really sucks; it is asking for trouble when such components are not isolated from strain and mounted directly on CBs. This seems to be such common practice these days with guide cameras, etc. Way too easy to break and way too expensive to repair. When I broke my SBIG guide camera it nearly cost the price of the camera to repair.

Good luck!

Peter

[SimmoW (SIMON)]

Glad you noticed my post Peter. Jeez the gods are against me! 21.9 skies and I can't guide...

Still need to get my second hand eq5 mount running, might have to use that for awhile! Sheesh I'll be lucky to do *struggles to say* wwwidefield!

[lazjen (Chris)]

Originally Posted by PRejto

BTW, the design really sucks; it is asking for trouble when such components are not isolated from strain and mounted directly on CBs. This seems to be such common practice these days with guide cameras, etc. Way too easy to break and way too expensive to repair. When I broke my SBIG guide camera it nearly cost the price of the camera to repair.

I'll join the chorus on this. There appears to be little thought about how and where these cameras are going to be used, so they miss the obvious need to make them more robust.

[SimmoW (SIMON)]

Good news, a nice club member with the expertise thinks he can fix the connection. Might as well try before being up for a grand! Many folks on their forums recommend affixing a 90 degree adapter permanently to the connection to minimise pressure on the flimsy PCB. Crazy stuff for such a reputed brand. Maybe in another life I should have bought 4 AZ EQs and rotated periodically, they would last longer

[LewisM]

If it makes you feel any better Simon, I this morning stripped the completely cludged/hardened grease out of my Tak FSQ-85's CAA and regreased (I mean, it had completely hardened like paint!) Wasn't really difficult

Sorry to hear of the MyT woes - sadly, not the first either. I hope you do find an elec-trick-'em with necessary skill.

[gregbradley]

Why don't you sell it and replace it with an AP1100. Then there would never be an issue with anything again.

Software Bisque used to be a premium brand you could totally trust. But some sort of shift to Mexico based assembly or whatever they are doing puts them more as a competitor to lower end mounts.


Greg.

[Slawomir (Suavi)]

Sorry to hear about your issues with the mount Simon. Unfortunately, these days it seems that no brand is immune to issues. I hope you will get that sorted quickly (and cheaply!).

[RickS (Rick)]

Originally Posted by lazjen

I'll join the chorus on this. There appears to be little thought about how and where these cameras are going to be used, so they miss the obvious need to make them more robust.

Taking the connectors off the PCB requires more parts and makes assembly more time-consuming. That all adds to cost, unfortunately. Not sure it's lack of thought so much as economics driving some of these design decisions.

Cheers,
Rick.

[Marke (Mark)]

One of the reasons I love the AP mounts just simplicity and designed to be serviceable in the field with the electronics in a separate box. I had an issue were something died in the control box out of warranty I just posted it to AP and it was repaired and returned the same day they received it no charge other than the postage so a lot to be said keeping parts separate imho.