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  #21  
Old 18-11-2017, 08:26 AM
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gregbradley
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Yeah I'm with Mike. I would be pretty conservative attempting collimation on an F3 scope.

Tak ED180 F2.8 scopes were notorious for needing to be sent back to Texas or Japan for recollimation.

The faster the scope the touchier it becomes. Baby steps of collimation would be the go.

Greg.
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  #22  
Old 18-11-2017, 08:37 AM
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Anth10 (Anthony M)
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Colin,
This is a brilliant image, top shelf. Ghostly detail, love it. Your constant efforts on this subject have led you to one you must be super proud of. Like Mike suggested, it would be easy to ignore the minor imperfection since the quality is already very high- but like most of us we can't let things like this beat us! Good luck resolving the issue, and celebrate with a good Italian wine when you succeed!
Anth

Last edited by Anth10; 18-11-2017 at 11:48 AM.
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  #23  
Old 18-11-2017, 08:39 AM
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Atmos (Colin)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strongmanmike View Post
Actually Colin looking closely again at your image at full resolution and assuming you haven't specifically worked on your stars in anyway (?) the issues you are having look to be pretty minor, you must almost be tempted not to touch anything in case it gets worse..? ...still, seeing it this good and knowing that a tweak could make it perfect must also be very tempting

Mike
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cj5tydocrl...Frame.tif?dl=0

This is a full res simple stretch of 29 frames of Ha from one side of meridian. The stars in the top left are the best, the top right still have a low FWHM but stretched. The bottom corners have nearly twice the FWHM and are elongated. This is on a 15mm diagonal or whatever the KAF-8300 chip has, micro 4/3rds.

Ultimately I would like to put a Nikon D810 on the back to make use of its whole 42mm imaging circle! I don’t mind spending the time making small tweaks but hopefully I don’t have to do any attempts under the stars. Ordering some stuff this afternoon, Tak Collimation Scope and some adapters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley View Post
Yeah I'm with Mike. I would be pretty conservative attempting collimation on an F3 scope.

Tak ED180 F2.8 scopes were notorious for needing to be sent back to Texas or Japan for recollimation.

The faster the scope the touchier it becomes. Baby steps of collimation would be the go.

Greg.
Riccardo tells me that he’s done something like this before and it took him about an hour. Granted, he has lot more experience working with the products but as long as I take it really slowly it should be okay. I’ve taken images of defocused stars with it already and from that determined that it’ll only be under sheer desperation that I’ll be attempting that form of collimation!
My plan in a few weeks when everything arrives is to check it with the Tak Col scope before touching it. If it doesn’t visible look like it’s out of collimation I’ll be going back to Riccardo for advice before touching anything.

As you say Greg, at f/3 it’ll be very sensitive to small changes.
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  #24  
Old 18-11-2017, 10:55 AM
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Camelopardalis (Dunk)
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Looks a cracker Colin should certainly help you make the most of the skies down there

IMO ~600mm is a really interesting F/L, often overlooked. Lots of detail to be gleaned there and decent FOV.
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