#381  
Old 16-12-2016, 04:18 AM
pat30 (Patrice)
Registered User

pat30 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: France
Posts: 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post

Brendan, what did you use to clean the sensor after the DMSO application?

Acetone
Reply With Quote
  #382  
Old 16-12-2016, 06:47 AM
flolic (Filip)
Registered User

flolic is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Split, Croatia
Posts: 48
My boards from Seeed also arrived today!
They look great and tomorrow I will start soldering.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (PCB_seeed.jpg)
172.7 KB71 views
Reply With Quote
  #383  
Old 16-12-2016, 08:37 AM
wasyoungonce's Avatar
wasyoungonce (Brendan)
Certified Village Idiot

wasyoungonce is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mexico city (Melb), Australia
Posts: 2,312
Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post
Brendan, what did you use to clean the sensor after the DMSO application?

I've just left them till I need them but linked all the pins together with fine copper wire. Kinda just storing them.

But you'll use them soon so no need for that.
Cleaning, Isopropyl, Acetone, Chloroform (yes don't laugh it works). The surface cover glass is quite hardy. You can even use warm vapour like from an ultrasonic bath. As it forms and evaporates it takes away contaminates.

Hi Flip....you're PCB looks great I look at it with envy...you and Luka were to kind not to mention my little screw up! Also you're PCB has some tented via and some not! How did you do that?
Reply With Quote
  #384  
Old 16-12-2016, 09:26 AM
flolic (Filip)
Registered User

flolic is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Split, Croatia
Posts: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasyoungonce View Post
Also you're PCB has some tented via and some not! How did you do that?
Honestly, I don't know
But after closer examination I can see slight variations between different boards. It looks like inconsistency in manufacturing process, some boards have thicker solder mask around vias, some not. Also there are variations on the same board. All vias should be covered and they are, just on some solder mask is thinner and looks like it's missing.
I am wondering how boards from OSH Park will be...
Reply With Quote
  #385  
Old 16-12-2016, 12:15 PM
luka's Avatar
luka
Unregistered User

luka is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 1,109
I just had an interesting thought... we ordered 2x 10 boards and not 20 boards, i.e. there were two separate orders of identical 10 boards done at different times. It was cheaper that way.

Anyway, it would be interesting to compare the boards from two different batches... Unfortunately you have one batch Brendan while I have the other I was planing adding a few more for you but in a rush left them on my desk. Compare photos?
Reply With Quote
  #386  
Old 16-12-2016, 08:49 PM
luka's Avatar
luka
Unregistered User

luka is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 1,109
Thank you guys for the info. The DMSO worked very fast, I checked 20h after I put the first sensor in and it was free. I thought it would take a few days???

Now my test debayered one is in, to see if DMSO affects the sensor surface/epoxy/golden wires. No cover glass.

Will finish soldering the first board later tonight...
Reply With Quote
  #387  
Old 17-12-2016, 01:18 AM
luka's Avatar
luka
Unregistered User

luka is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 1,109
Great news, the Cam86 is almost alive

I finished soldering all the components I had. Then I flashed the FTDI chip (my previous information that this was not required was not correct) and also the Atmega328P.

I even managed to get a first image... now I am missing DD6 so the Atmega328P cannot talk to the ADC and the sensor, hence the image is black.

Almost there... so far so good. Just waiting for the DD6 which will probably be here on Monday.

I am compiling detailed instructions, the Ukrainian translations by Google are not very clear. Also need to update the parts list.

And finally my 2nd sensor in DMSO got free from the carrier within less than 5h. Damn that stuff is working fast.
Reply With Quote
  #388  
Old 17-12-2016, 08:31 AM
wasyoungonce's Avatar
wasyoungonce (Brendan)
Certified Village Idiot

wasyoungonce is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mexico city (Melb), Australia
Posts: 2,312
Jeez Luka you are stormin ahead. Breaking new ground...IIS's first cam86 (with a bucketload of work by Grim etc).

Looking fwd to seeing this baby opens it's eyes to the public! Well done.

Brendan
Reply With Quote
  #389  
Old 17-12-2016, 09:17 AM
wasyoungonce's Avatar
wasyoungonce (Brendan)
Certified Village Idiot

wasyoungonce is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mexico city (Melb), Australia
Posts: 2,312
Pat and Flip...Luka asked me the value of C43. Unfortunately I have it as 10nf but my parts list says 1nf. If I make a change I usually put a hidden pop note in xls for the reasons...on this I have none. Just for interest sake...I went thru all my drawing revisions and I have always had C43 as 10nf in schematic and 1nf on parts list so I think the schematic was a typo.

Can you please advise.

Thanks

Brendan
Reply With Quote
  #390  
Old 17-12-2016, 10:10 AM
luka's Avatar
luka
Unregistered User

luka is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 1,109
Than you Brendan but credits should go where they are due, i.e to you. It was your hard work to get the PCBs redesigned and check every component.

Excellent work
Reply With Quote
  #391  
Old 17-12-2016, 11:49 AM
luka's Avatar
luka
Unregistered User

luka is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 1,109
Here is detailed info how to flash firmware to the Cam86. Hopefully it will be useful to someone:

1. Connect Cam86 and let Windows install the FTDI drivers.

2. Update firmware on the FTDI device:
- Run the MPROG utility
- In Mprog, Click on the magnifying glass icon and check that it shows number of programmed devices = 1. If it shows more, unplug any other USB devices that may contain FTDI chips. if less, something has not installed properly.
- Open the template file cam86.ept, and click on the 'program existing devices' button.

3. Remove power to Cam86, wait few seconds, plug power back in

4. Setup FTDI device in device manager
- In device manager under "Universal Serial Bus Controller" find "USB Serial Controller A" and "USB Serial Controller B", right click on one of them and select properties.
- Under tab Advanced unclick loadVCP and click OK
- Do the same of the other device

5. Flash firmware to the Atmega328P chip
- Run Cam86 Programmer
- Click "Open", you should see something like this:
Number of devices : 2

device 0 :
SerialNumber :CAM86A
Description :CAM86 A

device 1 :
SerialNumber :CAM86B
Description :CAM86 B
Open :CAM86 B
BitMode Ok
SetBaudRate : 60000

- Click "Prog Enable", you should see something like this:
signature: 1E0F95
ATmega328P

- Click "Read Fuses", the fuses fields will be filled with binary values (1s and 0s)

- EXTREME CARE NEEDED HERE or you can disable the internal oscillator in the ATmega328P chip
Type in new fuses values as follows:
Fuse high: 11011001 (this is probably identical to what was read from the chip)
Fuse low: 11100010
Fuse EX: 11111111

- DOUBLE CHECK WHAT YOU ENTERED

- CHECK AGAIN

- Click "Write Fuses", you should see something like this:
E2
FF


- Click "Chip Erase", you should see something like this:
FF AC 80 00


- Click "Write PROGR", select the firmware in the cam86-firmware folder.
The flashing process will output
Page 1
Page 2
...
Then the program got stuck at around page 30. I waited about 30 seconds and eventually it finished with Page 219. Be patient.
When it finishes it will show over than 200 pages.

- Unplug power, wait a few seconds and you should have a working Cam86

- Install the ASCOM driver and test with CamView utility.
Reply With Quote
  #392  
Old 17-12-2016, 08:06 PM
pat30 (Patrice)
Registered User

pat30 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: France
Posts: 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasyoungonce View Post
Pat and Flip...Luka asked me the value of C43. Unfortunately I have it as 10nf but my parts list says 1nf. If I make a change I usually put a hidden pop note in xls for the reasons...on this I have none. Just for interest sake...I went thru all my drawing revisions and I have always had C43 as 10nf in schematic and 1nf on parts list so I think the schematic was a typo.

Can you please advise.

Thanks

Brendan
Hi,
C43 is 1000 pico farad.
sorry to do short, I am with gsm

Last edited by pat30; 17-12-2016 at 09:44 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #393  
Old 17-12-2016, 08:25 PM
luka's Avatar
luka
Unregistered User

luka is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 1,109
Thank you Patrice, that is the answer I like as I already have those capacitors here and don't have to order the other ones :-)
Reply With Quote
  #394  
Old 17-12-2016, 09:46 PM
pat30 (Patrice)
Registered User

pat30 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: France
Posts: 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post
Thank you Patrice, that is the answer I like as I already have those capacitors here and don't have to order the other ones :-)
No problem, Congratulations Luka for Cam
Reply With Quote
  #395  
Old 18-12-2016, 07:29 AM
flolic (Filip)
Registered User

flolic is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Split, Croatia
Posts: 48
It's alive!

Cam86; exposure time 0.1s, gain 38, offset -15, debayered (monochrome) sensor
.fit here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...et-15__001.fit
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (test0.1s_gain38_offset-15__001.jpg)
184.9 KB47 views
Reply With Quote
  #396  
Old 18-12-2016, 09:09 AM
wasyoungonce's Avatar
wasyoungonce (Brendan)
Certified Village Idiot

wasyoungonce is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mexico city (Melb), Australia
Posts: 2,312
Quote:
Originally Posted by flolic View Post
It's alive!

Cam86; exposure time 0.1s, gain 38, offset -15, debayered (monochrome) sensor
.fit here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...et-15__001.fit

Well done indeed Filip, camera working and debayered.... now you're cooking!

Pat thanks for that info

Brendan
Reply With Quote
  #397  
Old 18-12-2016, 09:37 AM
flolic (Filip)
Registered User

flolic is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Split, Croatia
Posts: 48
Thanks Brendan!

Now, to proceed any further, first I have to make new enclosure and solve CCD cooling. That will have to wait a little...

But from initial tests, camera produces very clean images with low noise free of any electrical interference.
I've put camera in freezer (-18C) and took few bias frames, resulting images show very low noise with perfect Gaussian distribution. I am extremely happy so far

If someone wants to examine bias frames, they are here (rar):
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...5_temp-18C.rar
Reply With Quote
  #398  
Old 18-12-2016, 01:47 PM
luka's Avatar
luka
Unregistered User

luka is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 1,109
Great work Filip

Few questions about debayering the sensor? I had a practice go at a broken one (from a broken camera) and while I debayered it I am not sure about the outcome as the sensor (and my DSLR) was already broken.

Did you just scrape the CFA or did you use something like dichloromethane (paintstripper) to soften the CFA?
I tried the dichloromethae method and it worked well but I had issues cleaning the gel-like leftovers. The sensor cleaned OK but the surroundings are covered by it and wiping is out of question because of the gold wires. I covered them by epoxy but some of the ends where it attaches to the sensor surface are still exposed as I did not want to risk getting epoxy on the sensor itself.

Also did you use epoxy to protect the gold wires and did you seal the sensor with the original glass again or did you just leave it open?

Thank you
Luka
Reply With Quote
  #399  
Old 18-12-2016, 05:18 PM
pat30 (Patrice)
Registered User

pat30 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: France
Posts: 119
Well done Flolic, as Luka says, give us more information for the converse of the sensor in B / W, I am greatly interested in the method!
Reply With Quote
  #400  
Old 18-12-2016, 05:53 PM
wasyoungonce's Avatar
wasyoungonce (Brendan)
Certified Village Idiot

wasyoungonce is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mexico city (Melb), Australia
Posts: 2,312
Quote:
Originally Posted by pat30 View Post
Well done Flolic, as Luka says, give us more information for the converse of the sensor in B / W, I am greatly interested in the method!

So am I

Damn impressive I'd say!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +10. The time is now 01:38 PM.

Powered by vBulletin Version 3.8.7 | Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertisement
OzScopes Authorised Dealer
Advertisement
NexDome Observatories
Advertisement
Bintel
Advertisement
SkyWatcher Australia
Advertisement
Lunatico Astronomical
Advertisement
Meade Australia
Advertisement
Celestron Australia
Advertisement
Astronomy and Electronics Centre
Advertisement