#41  
Old 30-12-2019, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Astroman View Post
The Arduino will be getting its power from the USB port that will be controlling it, wouldn't it? Then all that is needed if using the MOS board would be to run the ground, Signal wires from the Arduino to the MOS board then the LED panel and 12v supply from the terminals. Is the 5v rail needed into the VCC of the MOS board? (not sure what this does) I guess so to turn the MOSFET on and off via the PWM? So the Arduino will only be drawing little current to pulse the signal. I doubt enough to damage anything on the MOS board, Arduino or the computer.
I think Paul was planning to supply 12V via the jack on the Arduino and wire the Arduino GND and VIN to the MOS board GND and VIN rather than supply 12V direct to the MOS board. I think either will work and in both cases I he will need the 5V, GND and SIG connections between the two devices.
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  #42  
Old 30-12-2019, 06:48 PM
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The_bluester (Paul)
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For the moment I powered it via the DC in of the Uno and it is working fine. I need a sheet of ND filter though, with the ASI294 and it's liking for 4 second + flats it runs the panel down to about level 3 even with a teatowel over the dewshield.
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  #43  
Old 30-12-2019, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by The_bluester View Post
For the moment I powered it via the DC in of the Uno and it is working fine. I need a sheet of ND filter though, with the ASI294 and it's liking for 4 second + flats it runs the panel down to about level 3 even with a teatowel over the dewshield.
Can you give it a 9V supply? I use these:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/multi-volt...-1-5a/p/AA0372
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  #44  
Old 31-12-2019, 07:30 AM
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I might just go and buy a 9V plugpack and see how it goes. It will increase the current slightly to get the same brightness but it will still be at such a low level I doubt the Uno circuit track will be at any risk.

If it all works out I will package it all up in an enclosure with a 12V/9V DC-DC supply to keep the wiring simple.
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  #45  
Old 02-01-2020, 11:13 AM
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I grabbed a 9V plugpack and gave mine a test run on the weekend, nice to get good quality flats easily. Voyager handled it easily once I loosened up the tolerance on how close to the requested ADU count I wanted so it would work with a fixed exposure time and the available steps in panel brightness (To make it possible to use a standard master dark-flat)

We also used SGP to directly control the panel and do flats for a friends newt.

I should have done it ages ago!
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  #46  
Old 03-01-2020, 10:32 AM
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I cannot wait to try mine with Voyager, once my Observatory has been moved to a dark sky. I'll be putting all the gear together in a week or so. I'll most likely be getting the A3 size Panel as it will probably be all I will need for my gear. I doubt it will change much in the next few years.
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  #47  
Old 17-01-2020, 02:51 AM
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I've just made a video of my build as per the above.



I've been talking to the author of Astro Photography Tool (APT) who is looking to add this device in to the next beta, so hopefully we can benefit from it (I've not used SGP before)
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  #48  
Old 17-01-2020, 11:24 PM
torsion (Bram)
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Haha, that is funny Rob, you did a much better packaging job than I did.

I used my daughters BBC Micro:bit board and programmed it with the latest sketch (with the capital 'O' characters instead of zero's, which had me going crazy), and now it is working great. I selected the appropriate pin on the Micro:bit, and added one of the onboard LED to represent the brightness for some human feedback.

Although I ordered a 12V LED panel (ebay $45), I received a 5V version including a 2A USB charger. I pulled it apart and at full brightness the little control board provides ~3.6V to the LEDs, so then I thought to use the 3.3V of the Micro:bit, powered from the USB connection to the computer. This may not give me the maximum brightness, but I think that is ok.

My internal panel wiring is slightly different than in Rob's video, from the original control PCB it provides power to the LEDs going in two directions, up and down, so hence there are two pair of power lead coming out of my panel.

I also used the XC-4488 from Jaycar. The Vin is connected to a 3.3V test point on the Micro:bit (hence the green wire coming out of nowhere on the board), while the 'SIG, Vcc and GND control inputs' are from the IO pins. There is a 3V pin, which I use as the Vcc control input. I tried to use that pin for the mosfet Vin, however when connected, the panel is not as bright. Not sure why that is.

I tested it in N.I.N.A. and that seems to work ok.

All in all, it is working great and now I will see to run it with my scope.

Attached are a few photos and the sketch for the BBC Micro:bit board and has some comments and links on how to set it all up (it doesn't have the PWM frequency mod).

cheers,
Bram
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