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  #1  
Old 23-03-2017, 06:33 PM
imhimmelkommter (Michael Toms)
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OTA now ready for sanding.

The telescope wooden tube is now finished gluing and is ready for sanding.
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  #2  
Old 30-03-2017, 04:47 PM
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OzEclipse (Joe Cali)
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Michael,

The tube looks as though it will finish looking nice made out of solid planks. My only question is, how much does it weigh? Or are you going to sand it very thin?

Joe
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Old 08-05-2017, 06:48 PM
imhimmelkommter (Michael Toms)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzEclipse View Post
Michael,

The tube looks as though it will finish looking nice made out of solid planks. My only question is, how much does it weigh? Or are you going to sand it very thin?

Joe
The weight of the wooden tube is around 10Kg.
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  #4  
Old 08-05-2017, 06:53 PM
imhimmelkommter (Michael Toms)
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gluing baffles inside the wooden tube....

Working on the OTA gluing baffles inside the wooden tube. What I have read this helps with contrast of an image, similar to internal light baffling seen in a camera lens. Made from balsa wood. Another eight more ribs to go.
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:26 PM
Wavytone
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Hi Michael,

If those octagonal shapes become the aperture stop your stars will have 8 horrible spikes radiating from them, and images of jupiter/saturn will be rather awful.

To be effective the baffles must create a circular aperture - not octagonal.

Best way to do that is to make the baffles out of something thin - 1mm aircraft ply for example, with the hole accurately cut using router with a jig or template to make a smooth perfect circle. Then glue these against those octagonal balsa strips.

The other thing is several 1-piece baffles from material like aircraft ply will substantially strength your tube - looking at it, it appears (a) quite heavy and (b) any localised stress such as where it attached to the mount is likely to break the glued joints.
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  #6  
Old 08-05-2017, 10:47 PM
glend (Glen)
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Traditionally baffle placement is determined by calculation or by ray tracing. I am not wishing to dent your enthusiasm. As far as shape is concerned, yes a circular baffle is desirable. I have used neoprene as baffles on some of my scopes, it is easily cut to shape and can be glued in place, with enough stiffness to hold its shape, and it is already black.
Give some thought to weight, 10kg is pretty heavy for just a bare tube. Have a look at the plywood tubes that Plyscope has built (attached below), similiar to yours but much thinner and probably stronger due to cross laminations of the plywood. Of course that tube is for a refractor but note the baffles are circular on the inside.
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  #7  
Old 15-07-2017, 05:10 PM
imhimmelkommter (Michael Toms)
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The baffling isn't quite in the way of the mirror. Slow progressing and now I need a 10" mirror mount
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  #8  
Old 15-07-2017, 05:11 PM
imhimmelkommter (Michael Toms)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wavytone View Post
Hi Michael,

If those octagonal shapes become the aperture stop your stars will have 8 horrible spikes radiating from them, and images of jupiter/saturn will be rather awful.

To be effective the baffles must create a circular aperture - not octagonal.

Best way to do that is to make the baffles out of something thin - 1mm aircraft ply for example, with the hole accurately cut using router with a jig or template to make a smooth perfect circle. Then glue these against those octagonal balsa strips.

The other thing is several 1-piece baffles from material like aircraft ply will substantially strength your tube - looking at it, it appears (a) quite heavy and (b) any localised stress such as where it attached to the mount is likely to break the glued joints.
Thanks for advice.
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  #9  
Old 28-08-2017, 06:04 PM
gb44 (Glenn)
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Ota

Another way to reinforce the tube would be to fit end plates and turn it in a lathe. Then use the bendable ply as a wrap glued on outside.

Did you get the mirror mount?

GlennB
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