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Old 26-04-2018, 09:13 PM
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AstroBogan (Jacob)
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HELP - ZWO ASI120MM-S Guiding

Hi Guys,

I've been having massive problems with my zwo asi120mm-s. No matter what settings I use all i get is a grey static screen when attached to my guide scope (skywatcher 80x400). The only time I ever get a clear image is when i attached the lens that comes with it, but I'm assuming I don't use that when attached to my guidescope. I've tested it in PHD2 and APT and I get the same screen for both.

It goes darker when i put my hand in front of the scope, so it is working somewhat.

See attached for images of settings currently being used.

I really want to get this up and running. I've just received my ASI1600MM-pro and I want to start NB and LRGB imaging with longer exposures.

Thanks in advance for all any help offered!
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Old 26-04-2018, 10:07 PM
kens (Ken)
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The camera is fine. Most likely it is out of focus. What guidescope are you using?
Also - don't use autoexposure; and make use of the screen brightness slider
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Old 26-04-2018, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kens View Post
The camera is fine. Most likely it is out of focus. What guidescope are you using?
Also - don't use autoexposure; and make use of the screen brightness slider
I'm using the Skywatcher 80/400, even with the focuser being utilised nothing changes on the screen
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Old 27-04-2018, 06:17 AM
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Atmos (Colin)
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You may need an extension tube to get the sensor back far enough.

You can do a test during the day to see if it’s working, saves wasting clear nights.
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Old 27-04-2018, 06:17 AM
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doppler (Rick)
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Or try it with the diagonal inserted to see if that helps, most refractors are setup to use one so the focal point is further back hence the need for the extension tube when using a camera.
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Old 27-04-2018, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doppler View Post
Or try it with the diagonal inserted to see if that helps, most refractors are setup to use one so the focal point is further back hence the need for the extension tube when using a camera.
I will definitely give this a go this afternoon and see if it helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atmos View Post
You may need an extension tube to get the sensor back far enough.

You can do a test during the day to see if it’s working, saves wasting clear nights.
I've already tried with an extension tube and it didn't help. It is so strange, if I cover the cap it goes black, and for a quick second after i take my hand away everything is in focus, but then in phd when it re-loops it goes back to the fuzzy screen.
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Old 27-04-2018, 08:16 AM
Imme (Jon)
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That's the signal I get when I don't have focus (same camera)....I agree with the others, you're not hitting the focal point
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Old 27-04-2018, 08:16 AM
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The moon is out currently, focus on that first with the gain down then try again at least you can work where the focal point is and you can mark it on the scope. this way you can at least have a marker for easier focusing next time. You most likely need extension tubes.
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Old 27-04-2018, 10:19 AM
Malc114 (Malcolm)
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Have you tried using some other software to get a live video feed from the camera and see if you can achieve focus with your guide scope, this may also allow to to check exposure?
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Old 27-04-2018, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malc114 View Post
Have you tried using some other software to get a live video feed from the camera and see if you can achieve focus with your guide scope, this may also allow to to check exposure?
I tried both APT and PHD2 and both had the same issue. I've tried multiple guidescopes (50mm and a 80x400mm [which has a focuser]) and have had no luck. I've tried an extension tube which gave the exact same fuzzy screen. I know it has to do with focus, but I just don't understand how using both a focuser and extension tube do not work.

Using the brightness slider does not give any difference. Could it be the ASCOM settings possibly?

I've seen on other forums people using the EXACT same setup with no issues (orion 50mm guidescope + extension tube). When i mimic that, I have no luck whereas they have perfect focus.

So frustrating
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Old 27-04-2018, 01:14 PM
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The USB2.0 versions of the ASI120 (mm and mc) have problems with Windows 10 resulting in lost sync, split frames and dropped frames. Sharpcap reports dropped frames in live view and I found that only one or two in several hundred were being captured using my ASI120MC. It may be that you are changing focus while updated frames are not being captured. If your software reports dropped frames it might be worth while checking that. I really hope that's not the case though because I have just ordered and am waiting delivery on a new ASI120MM-s expecting it to fix my dropped frame problem!

Kevin
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Old 27-04-2018, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kosborn View Post
The USB2.0 versions of the ASI120 (mm and mc) have problems with Windows 10 resulting in lost sync, split frames and dropped frames. Sharpcap reports dropped frames in live view and I found that only one or two in several hundred were being captured using my ASI120MC. It may be that you are changing focus while updated frames are not being captured. If your software reports dropped frames it might be worth while checking that. I really hope that's not the case though because I have just ordered and am waiting delivery on a new ASI120MM-s expecting it to fix my dropped frame problem!

Kevin
I never actually took that into consideration. I will definitely check that out over the weekend!
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Old 27-04-2018, 04:15 PM
kens (Ken)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsmitt94 View Post
I'm using the Skywatcher 80/400, even with the focuser being utilised nothing changes on the screen
Post a picture of your setup. Attached picture is my ST80 with ASI120MM
You can see how much extension is needed to focus
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Old 27-04-2018, 08:59 PM
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Hi,

ZWO cameras come with an all sky view lens. Have you connected your camera to the pc with the all sky lens. You can do this inside and it will function like a web cam with sharp cap and you should see an image, no focusing required.

In this manner you can be sure the camera and connection to the laptop is working fine.

Cheers
Paul
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Old 28-04-2018, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kens View Post
Post a picture of your setup. Attached picture is my ST80 with ASI120MM
You can see how much extension is needed to focus
It looks identical to your yet it doesn't want to focus lol. I'll have to try again tonight. What ASCOM settings do you use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuts View Post
Hi,

ZWO cameras come with an all sky view lens. Have you connected your camera to the pc with the all sky lens. You can do this inside and it will function like a web cam with sharp cap and you should see an image, no focusing required.

In this manner you can be sure the camera and connection to the laptop is working fine.

Cheers
Paul
It works with the lens, it's just a matter of getting it to focus with my guidescope
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Old 28-04-2018, 05:44 PM
kens (Ken)
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My guess is that it is racked out too far. In that situation it is focusing up close, which is why it comes into focus near your hand. You need to crank the focuser in.
Use a tool like Sharpcap as it can work in video mode and also adjust exposure automatically.
Start by pointing at something inside and focusing. Then point at things progressively further away outside, focusing each time. (through a window is ok at this stage). At each step you should be racking the focuser in. Then you can point at the moon and rack in a bit further to focus that. The edge of the moon is easier to focus on.
Once you can focus on the moon you can point at a bright star to fine tune.
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Old 28-04-2018, 05:44 PM
kens (Ken)
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My guess is that it is racked out too far. In that situation it is focusing up close, which is why it comes into focus near your hand. You need to crank the focuser in.
Use a tool like Sharpcap as it can work in video mode and also adjust exposure automatically.
Start by pointing at something inside and focusing. Then point at things progressively further away outside, focusing each time. (through a window is ok at this stage). At each step you should be racking the focuser in. Then you can point at the moon and rack in a bit further to focus that. The edge of the moon is easier to focus on.
Once you can focus on the moon you can point at a bright star to fine tune.
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Old 28-04-2018, 08:33 PM
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So I figured it out.. pointed it at the moon tonight and managed to get it in focus (I think - first pic for reference). I moved it away and it went all fuzzy again and I panicked. Instead of cutting my gear down with a chainsaw I decided to point it at a bright star and to my amazement everything came into focus again. Is this how it is supposed to work? I marked the focus point so hopefully it won't be difficult anymore!
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Old 28-04-2018, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsmitt94 View Post
So I figured it out.. pointed it at the moon tonight and managed to get it in focus (I think - first pic for reference). I moved it away and it went all fuzzy again and I panicked. Instead of cutting my gear down with a chainsaw I decided to point it at a bright star and to my amazement everything came into focus again. Is this how it is supposed to work? I marked the focus point so hopefully it won't be difficult anymore!
Definitely need longer exposures....your star pic is .02 of a second!

....tracking will help too
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Old 28-04-2018, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imme View Post
Definitely need longer exposures....your star pic is .02 of a second!

....tracking will help too
I know, I didn't have my gear set up at all, literally just wanted to test the focus so I just pointed my mount towards the moon. This was the first time I've been able to get focus with my asi120mm and the guidescooe.

Once I set my gear up properly for an imaging session ill have it tracking and longer than 0.2 seconds

Last edited by AstroBogan; 28-04-2018 at 10:03 PM.
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