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  #1  
Old 27-04-2017, 03:26 PM
Joeyjoe (Joe)
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Beginning with StarScape

Hey guys, been wanting to get I to astro photography for better part of a decade but just never had the funds to buy a decent scope to start up

But now I've got the jive to get into it again, I was just going to start with some starscape photography.

I've got a Canon 1300D with the standard lease at the moment. Does anybody have any recommended settings for this camera? I've read up on the 500 rule and live in a rural area so I don't have to go far to escape light pollution.
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Old 27-04-2017, 04:15 PM
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Learn the exposure triangle and just get outside and take photos. Use Manual mode on your camera, turn off everything "auto", the 500 rule is a good rough starting point and adjust from there. Depends what you want and what you expect from it. its nevera matter of "use these settings for this camera" the settings are irrelevant of camera but YOU have to learn to understand what they are and comprehend what effect they have on your photos so you know how to adjust them. And it all depends on local conditions too. Its YOU taking the photograph, not your gear its just a tool, like buying the worlds most expensive paint brush wont make you paint like Davinci. The exposure triangle applies to any photograph and rural landscapes with stars/milky way can look awesome, the 500 rule will start you on sky only shots. Understand the triangle to adjust from there. Starfields need tripod but the moon can be shot handheld with ease.
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Old 27-04-2017, 05:01 PM
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Hi Joe, Sil makes some great points and if you go here http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=156205 and read through you'll find some more.
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Old 27-04-2017, 07:31 PM
Joeyjoe (Joe)
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Thanks guys.
Here is a shot I took last week just playing around with the ISO and 500 rule, shame it was overcast. The bluish tint at the base is my LED spotties on the car lighting up the power poles at the base trying to get a focus point

http://i63.tinypic.com/2nsuvt5.jpg

Will try again tonight since the cloud is much more broken up tonight
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Old 28-04-2017, 02:22 AM
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Went out again tonight to a nice dark spot.
Played with a few different settings.. ISO, AWB, timings etc.

These are the pick of the crop.
Any recommendations on improving them? either with the camera or with a preferably free editing program?

http://i68.tinypic.com/1t0sa9.jpg

http://i68.tinypic.com/2hi2yrk.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/ojngie.jpg
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  #6  
Old 28-04-2017, 03:18 AM
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Nice Joe do you recall what lens/settings you used and the software are you using to process them? You could try GIMP it's a free editing program. If I was to make a suggestion it would be to try a slightly longer exposure, especially if you're shooting from a nice dark spot. You should be able to get away with it without introducing too much noise which should hopefully bring out some more stars within the Milky Way.
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Old 28-04-2017, 01:43 PM
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I played around with different ISO settings and settled on the 1600.
As for timings, I started off at 28secs and worked down to 18-19 gave the good amount without causing too much star trail. The first pic above is 28sec. There is a coal mine behind the tree lines below the pic so the light towers put a little light up, but where I setup was the darkest spot I could find along the road that the mine didn't interfere with the shot.
The photos above are just RAW with no editing done as yet. Heck I still use paint to edit photos for my business website lol.
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Old 28-04-2017, 07:51 PM
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Haha there's nothing wrong with paint, but there are things out there better suited to the task. As Sil said just keep experimenting as there's no one way of doing things and you'll soon understand how your camera responds. When you say that your images are 'RAW' are you saying that they're actually RAW files or just an unprocessed JPEG/TIFF?

I only ask because GIMP doesn't handle RAW images so you'll need a plugin called UFRAW to process them. If you're not interested in GIMP or don't like plugins then another free alternative is RawTherapee.

Here are the links for each.
UFRAW http://ufraw.sourceforge.net/Install.html
GIMP https://www.gimp.org/downloads/
RawTherapee http://rawtherapee.com/downloads.

Happy imaging.
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Old 28-04-2017, 11:23 PM
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As in RAW format and unedited
I'll give that rawtherapee a go
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Old 28-04-2017, 11:45 PM
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See if it works for you and if you have any questions about working with RAW images just post them there are a lot of experienced photo people in here that can help.
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  #11  
Old 29-04-2017, 01:26 AM
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Thanks guys. Any tips for the editing? as I mentioned above, I'm a noob with editing
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Old 30-04-2017, 12:29 PM
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Joe there are so many variables with processing that there isn't really a right or wrong but more of an easy vs hard way to do things.
From what I've seen most people generally seem to work through it something like this.

1. Exposure
2. Contrast
3. Colour
4. Filter/Grade, the overall mood of an image (used in photography/film a lot) not so much in astrophotography.
5. Selective enhancements
6. Fix pixel defects/artifacts (e.g. hot pixels)
7. Noise Reduction
8. Sharpen/Soften
9. Image size/Cropping

That's just an example of course and every image is different so workflows are always dynamic. Some steps are used all the time while others are more specific and not always in that order.

This guy has some good tips http://christophmalin.com/2013/01/th...the-milky-way/

Last edited by LostInSp_ce; 30-04-2017 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 02-05-2017, 10:26 AM
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Grab DeepSkyStacker (DSS) its free, when you want to get shotsof the sky without landscape elements you take a bunch of shots with the same settings at the same time and use DSS to register (align) and integrate (stack) the shots into one high bit file you can process in gimp etc. I shoot dslr + lens + tripod mostly, no telescopes involved. Not ideal but basically the same approach you'd take with a tracking scope and imaging camera. Try to understand what a photo actually is and what you are looking at. Its about recording photons (signal) but other factors introduce noise into the picture, particularly ISO, but not exclusively. Also understand that you never record "black", black is where no photons were recorded in a picture. Nor should the "black" space be pure black in a photo as its never absent of photons so dont clip your blacks to pure black when you process. Astrophotography is all about signal to noise ratio; how to improve or nboost the signal and also reduce the noise. So by taking lots of the same photo, registering and integrating them the noise gets averaged down a large degree and signal gets strengthened (not brightened) so when you process with curves etc you can push the faint signal further to make it visible without ruining the photo with noise (which integration reduced already to a lower amount). Noise is never removed and signal never perfect. Its a balancing act of understanding what you are doing and whats going on with signal and noise to tweak either hardware or software workflows to get a picture YOU find acceptable. Everyone has their own workflows for their skill, knowledge and gear, but DSS is free and a good place to start, just try to keep your subs (individual photos) to a short enough exposure time so the stars dont streak and dss will align them much easier. Later you can look at tracking mounts to take longer exposures without star trails, look into darks and flats (but not essential, I rarely bother).

Above all take notes! its frustrating as hell starting out trying to understand what to and when, so write stuff down so you can easily repeat those steps while you work on the next steps. My tips are more for taking photos of the sky only without landscape. With landscapes you need to learn about composition to try to capture an interesting shot, so maybe try going out during the day and find a view to photograph at night , take some test shots in different directions from spots you can safely setup again in the dark. So like a deadtree or ruined building in the foreground to add interest and depth (not dominate) can work well for a nightscape, you could also put a torch behind it out of sight to create a stark silhoutte without ruining the starscape. if you want star trails in the shot then work out where the south celestial pole, its in the same spot 24/7 and when scouting a location during the day work out where it will appear in relation to your landscape elements so have some idea of where the swirls will look in the shot. Depends the look you're after.
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:26 PM
Joeyjoe (Joe)
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Thanks again guys

What's usually the best time of night to catch a good shot of the milky way? The times I've been out have been around 11pm when the area I go would have the least amount of traffic going by (but this can be any time after 8) It's also a high dusty area where I go, shooting over a coal mine and all. I can go a little further the other side of it to get away from most of the dust of farmland for good open field shots if that will help?
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Old 08-05-2017, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeyjoe View Post
What's usually the best time of night to catch a good shot of the milky way?
Joe if what you're asking is when is the sky at it's darkest then 11pm -1am is a good time (taking into account your your geographical location and that both the sun and moon are well below the horizon). However this doesn't necessarily make it the best time for your image. The best time is when the Milky Way is in the correct position for the image that you're trying to compose which could be a few hours either side of midnight. So really it's the type of image that you're trying to create that will determine what the best time is. If you're interested there are numerous planetarium apps that will allow you to see where the Milky Way will be positioned at a specific date/time. Also if you can get away from the dust then do it unless you're trying to compose something dramatic. You don't want any of that getting into your camera or lenses.
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeyjoe View Post
Thanks again guys

What's usually the best time of night to catch a good shot of the milky way?

First look up about "astronomical dark" just like sunrise and sunset astrodark changes everyday and by location. After astro dark starts the sky is as dark as its going to get at that location, but you'll still have light pollution, moon glow etc to account for. However sometimes for shots including landscape try a few in the half hour or so before astro dark. The sky should look dark to your eye but a 10sec exposure should have it come out a deep deep rich blue which you might find more appealing for the shot. Never ever use auto white balance, hell never auto anything really. Set white balance to daylight and the stars come out natural with looking colours, anything else the whole pic just looks wrong/bad usually. The sky will probably start looking brown from light pollution but there are ways to deal with that later.

Second install Stellarium (its free) and use it to see which way the milky way is laying in the sky for the date/time/location you want to shoot your photo. While there look at where the moon will be too and how full it is. You might find it best to wait a day or two or even an hour or two for the moon to set if its full etc. There are tons of similar programs to Stellarium for all platforms and phones, they are just a tool to show you where everything is going to be positioned in the sky at a particular date and time for a specific location. So you might have to step through hourly/daily etc increments until you find a good time where things of interest you want to shoot are in a favourable position. Same goes for anything in the sky you want to photograph, use the tool (stellarium, sky safari, etc) to see where it is and when it will be in a favourable position

Third check out the meteoblue weather site. It can use gps co-ords and give you a couple days accurate forecast. Particularly its cloud layers forecast I find absolutely spot on so use that too to help you decide if its worth heading out. For my location the clouds generally clear up after 9pm for a few hours every night pretty consistently, you may find a similar window of opportunity for your area too.

The there are also tools the show you the direction the sun and moon are from a given location projected on a map so if you want to capture a shot for example of the moon sitting on top of the silhouette of a tower it can help you line things up (look up photographers ephemeris i think). Ultimately theres a lot of planning involved and tons of testing and wasted nights from weather to contend with just to end up with a photo thats been taken thousands of times already. but still we do the homework, get out there and capture data and slave over processing it. So make sure you enjoy it above all and try to learn along the way.

Last edited by sil; 09-05-2017 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:32 PM
Joeyjoe (Joe)
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Many thanks again guys. I had "sky map" on my phone that helped me get a good idea where to face the camera on the last few outings I took the camera out on. But as you said it's all about experimenting with settings and locations etc to get the right shot.
The adventure shall continue.
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Old 09-05-2017, 10:10 PM
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You're welcome Joe, I'm looking forward to seeing what comes next.
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