with some clear skies around the new moon for a change i decided to give my new OIII filter (8.5nm) a bit of a trial run.
unfortunately it was hot both nights and the canon's sensor was reading between 30-39 degs - not ideal (up to 49 after using live view!!). in addition most of my subs were ruined so the result it more noise than a rock concert - it took me a long time to trouble shoot what the issue was.
i don't know why but BYEOS dithering was the problem it would cause PHD to lose the guide star often or move it too far. in all honestly it probably wasn't the programs' fault but my aging laptop that struggles downloading a picture as it is.
so anyway this was never going to be a masterpiece with the heat and laptop problems but trialling the filter and my new CC. the above problems made it harder to blend in the OIII to the RGB image but thanks to marc, hugh and fred for their tips.
i think the blended image has added something to the regular rgb. longer exposures weren't possible with the filter due to the noise from the heat. i need a cooled camera! think i'm going to have to bite the bullet sooner rather than later.
clear and cool skies!
russ
1 thors helmet OIII
2 carina regular rgb
3 carina rgb blended with OiII
4 carina OIII data
On the subject of OIII filters, do you guys know of a list of the DSO's that most benefit from the use of an OIII rather than a UHC ?
I have had a high demand for my UHC/Nebula filters, but few specific requests for OIII filters. They might be worth having a few on hand ?
Great pics. One day I would love to be able to this. I really enjoy comparisons like this as it allows me to identify what items I may need to look at down the track.
It would be great to know a little more about how you gained these results. i.e. telescope/lens/filter(s)/aperature/shots/processing/and all the other stuff that I need to find about
Really top work Russel! Fascinating seeing what the O3 does!
Cheers
Jo
thanks Jo
Quote:
Originally Posted by britgc
Nice. I quite like the RGB OIII blend as well Russell.
thanks brett
Quote:
Originally Posted by gaa_ian
On the subject of OIII filters, do you guys know of a list of the DSO's that most benefit from the use of an OIII rather than a UHC ?
I have had a high demand for my UHC/Nebula filters, but few specific requests for OIII filters. They might be worth having a few on hand ?
g'day Ian that's a good question i'm not sure how narrow is ideal for visual.
photographically the good thing about OIII is that you don't need a modded dslr to use them.
thanks for kind words, I went pretty heavy on the noise reduction in the fainter areas but think the blend came out alright. the rgb subs were 70 seconds and the OIII subs were 4 minutes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akwestland
Russell,
Great pics. One day I would love to be able to this. I really enjoy comparisons like this as it allows me to identify what items I may need to look at down the track.
It would be great to know a little more about how you gained these results. i.e. telescope/lens/filter(s)/aperature/shots/processing/and all the other stuff that I need to find about
Great work.
Cheers
Andrew
Thank Andrew.
these were taken on my 12" f4 newt which is on an eq8.
RGB subs were 70 seconds at iso 1600 and the OIII subs were 4 minutes @ iso 1600. if I could take longer subs more OIII would pop out of the area but the noise was too much i'm limited to 70 second exposures on rgb because of light pollution - I have ordered a light pollution filter which will allow an increase in the sub time (a cooled camera would increase the sub time even more).
the camera was a modified canon 600d. I think the total integration time was about an hour and 45 mins or so.
i use an off axis guider to guide the mount and have a RCCI coma corrector. i used to use a MPCC (coma corrector) with the OAG but to use a filter would have meant i would have to use a clip in filter (specialised for canon cameras) as the MPCC has a shorter spacing distance. i wanted a filter i could use on other systems (2"). I would recommend the RCCI over a MPCC as it allows greater flexibility in guiding and filter choices due to its greater spacing.
I stacked the images in Deep Sky Stacker and processed the stack in photoshop. i did have some trouble blending the OIII to the rgb because the frames weren't that close. so ended up doing it in photoshop manually. http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=132073
if you are looking at getting a new system you won't need that much aperture an 8" newt on a HEQ5 or NEQ6 will give great results.
these were taken on my 12" f4 newt which is on an eq8.
RGB subs were 70 seconds at iso 1600 and the OIII subs were 4 minutes @ iso 1600. if I could take longer subs more OIII would pop out of the area but the noise was too much i'm limited to 70 second exposures on rgb because of light pollution - I have ordered a light pollution filter which will allow an increase in the sub time (a cooled camera would increase the sub time even more).
the camera was a modified canon 600d. I think the total integration time was about an hour and 45 mins or so.
Thats a great amount of info that I am trying to digest, how does one measure the temp of the camera? I have been given a cooler box by a fantastic member on here, is it purely measured by the temp probe in the box or is there more to it? I have just bought myself a Nikon D5300, not specifically for this, which is better CCD or DSLR?
i use an off axis guider to guide the mount and have a RCCI coma corrector. i used to use a MPCC (coma corrector) with the OAG but to use a filter would have meant i would have to use a clip in filter (specialised for canon cameras) as the MPCC has a shorter spacing distance. i wanted a filter i could use on other systems (2"). I would recommend the RCCI over a MPCC as it allows greater flexibility in guiding and filter choices due to its greater spacing.
I am trying to understand all of this so that I will be prepared for when I start. Maybe even picking up the odd item as they become available via this forum.
I stacked the images in Deep Sky Stacker and processed the stack in photoshop. i did have some trouble blending the OIII to the rgb because the frames weren't that close. so ended up doing it in photoshop manually. http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=132073
I have downloaded various programs and am "playing" with them to start getting a feel for it. I have a background in photography and a good knowledge of computers. Although I have only just bought my first real DSLR, others have been cheap point and click cameras.
if you are looking at getting a new system you won't need that much aperture an 8" newt on a HEQ5 or NEQ6 will give great results.
i hope that makes sense!
Cheers,
Russ
I have recently purchased a secondhand 200mm Newtonian F5 Skywatcher off here. I have not used it yet as I am sorting out what to mount it on. Like all others the budget comes in to play here. I am debating a little between piers and tripods.
Also, I live on a farm, the nearest town (Orbost) is about 15-20 minutes drive, so great dark skys, open paddocks with some trees to dodge. The down side to this is no local community to engage in the learning. All of it so far is on here and other forums/websites. I am trying to convince the good lady wife that we need to attend a star party, but distance is hard.
Again, thank you for your response, it is helping me form a picture (pun intended) of what is required.
Hey Russ, nice work. Now you've got me digging out my O III filter to have a play. As if I haven't got enough to learn already !!
Cheers Brent! Have fun with the filter! The learning never seems to end!
Quote:
Originally Posted by raymo
Thor is nice, and the blend is intriguing.
raymo
Thanks Raymo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akwestland
Thank Andrew.
these were taken on my 12" f4 newt which is on an eq8. RGB subs were 70 seconds at iso 1600 and the OIII subs were 4 minutes @ iso 1600. if I could take longer subs more OIII would pop out of the area but the noise was too much i'm limited to 70 second exposures on rgb because of light pollution - I have ordered a light pollution filter which will allow an increase in the sub time (a cooled camera would increase the sub time even more). the camera was a modified canon 600d. I think the total integration time was about an hour and 45 mins or so.
Thats a great amount of info that I am trying to digest, how does one measure the temp of the camera? I have been given a cooler box by a fantastic member on here, is it purely measured by the temp probe in the box or is there more to it? I have just bought myself a Nikon D5300, not specifically for this, which is better CCD or DSLR?
I use a program called Backyard Eos to acquire images on my laptop (it works with canon eos cameras). It gives a reading of the temperature that the camera records - i doubt it is 100% accurate but it is an indication nonetheless. I see now they have a version for Nikon cameras http://www.otelescope.com/index.php?...emium-edition/
A mono CCD will give the best results due to increased sensitivity and deep cooling. However there are added complications to the already steep learning curve especially processing and of course costs (filter wheel, filters). Great results are achievable on dslr's too but they generally a let down in hot weather. A cooled dslr can perform really well.
i use an off axis guider to guide the mount and have a RCCI coma corrector. i used to use a MPCC (coma corrector) with the OAG but to use a filter would have meant i would have to use a clip in filter (specialised for canon cameras) as the MPCC has a shorter spacing distance. i wanted a filter i could use on other systems (2"). I would recommend the RCCI over a MPCC as it allows greater flexibility in guiding and filter choices due to its greater spacing.
I am trying to understand all of this so that I will be prepared for when I start. Maybe even picking up the odd item as they become available via this forum.
I stacked the images in Deep Sky Stacker and processed the stack in photoshop. i did have some trouble blending the OIII to the rgb because the frames weren't that close. so ended up doing it in photoshop manually. http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=132073
I have downloaded various programs and am "playing" with them to start getting a feel for it. I have a background in photography and a good knowledge of computers. Although I have only just bought my first real DSLR, others have been cheap point and click cameras.
if you are looking at getting a new system you won't need that much aperture an 8" newt on a HEQ5 or NEQ6 will give great results.
i hope that makes sense!
Cheers,
Russ
I have recently purchased a secondhand 200mm Newtonian F5 Skywatcher off here. I have not used it yet as I am sorting out what to mount it on. Like all others the budget comes in to play here. I am debating a little between piers and tripods.
Also, I live on a farm, the nearest town (Orbost) is about 15-20 minutes drive, so great dark skys, open paddocks with some trees to dodge. The down side to this is no local community to engage in the learning. All of it so far is on here and other forums/websites. I am trying to convince the good lady wife that we need to attend a star party, but distance is hard.
Again, thank you for your response, it is helping me form a picture (pun intended) of what is required.
Cheers
Andrew
No worries Andrew good luck with it.
things to me that sounds like you need to sort out:
firstly:
- mount. eg HEQ5 / NEQ6
- coma corrector (eg MPCC or RCCI - keeping in mind what guiding solution you plan to use as an OAG takes up space between the CC and camera).
secondly:
- Auto guiding solution: Off axis guider or a Guide scope (i'd recommend a OAG to avoid flexure - although this means you can't use a cooler box - guide scope packages can be cheaper).
- Guide camera (lodestar / QHY5L ii) - i think the QHY is cheaper and the same chip...
- cabling for your dslr
- focuser upgrade (eg moonlite)
thirdly:
- upgrading camera to a CCD or the like - after you've got the hang of everything image capture and processing and of course what the budget allows!
A star party is a great idea, i'm not sure exactly where you are based (Gippsland?) also be aware that the Mornington peninsula astronomical society has regular public open nights http://www.mpas.asn.au/PVN.htm but there may be societies closer by.
Cheers
Russell
Last edited by rustigsmed; 23-02-2015 at 02:18 PM.
Thank you very much for all that info. It is a great help.
Yes, I am in far East Gippsland, about 4hrs drive from Melbourne. There seems to be very few active astronomical groups out here. We do go to Melbourne quite often, we stay in Langwarrin where the son lives. Problem with attending the MPAS site is that we don't get to Melbourne until at least 9.30 on a Friday night. After a 5am start all one wants to do is slow down for the day. And the public nights don't always correspond to our trips to Melbourne, these are normally dictated by my work for Monday morning meetings. I am trying to convince my wife that we need to go to the Snake Valley weekend.
As for the imaging I am also about to re-read the planetary imaging and image processing guide that Mike Salway has on the projects & articles section of the forum.
Thanks again for all of the info, I look forward to further informative posts like this has been.
i'm limited to 70 second exposures on rgb because of light pollution - I have ordered a light pollution filter which will allow an increase in the sub time (a cooled camera would increase the sub time even more).
good luck with it. 
