Go Back   IceInSpace > Equipment > ATM and DIY Projects

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread
  #21  
Old 07-08-2020, 09:17 AM
Stefan Buda
Registered User

Stefan Buda is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 637
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonius View Post
I'm sure you guys must have thought of this, but you couldnt use one of those focuser tilt rings you get for RC scopes, could you?


Markus
Yes it would work but it's not worth the trouble considering that we are talking about a tilt, coming from the focuser, of something like 15 microns across the sensor. I bet the sensor alignment in the camera is not much better than that.
Not a worry considering that the theoretical depth of focus is well over 40 microns at f/7.7
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 08-08-2020, 04:06 PM
Sunfish's Avatar
Sunfish (Ray)
Registered User

Sunfish is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Wollongong
Posts: 1,226
Thanks to your posts Stefan I managed to find an led illumination method for for my collimation telescope project . Managed to collimate my Tak. Not perfect but much better and i can do another round after a star test.

Better do you think or is there something I am missing?

Not too hard with only one lense cell i suppose. The LED does change the world.

After and before images along with my T2 lense collimator frankenscope and reticle eyepiece projection.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (FS102 Collimatiomn camera after.jpg)
145.2 KB54 views
Click for full-size image (FS102 Collimation camera before.jpg)
251.4 KB55 views
Click for full-size image (FS102 Collimation camera_.jpg)
183.4 KB52 views
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 09-08-2020, 08:12 AM
Stefan Buda
Registered User

Stefan Buda is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 637
Great work. It definitely looks better. These collimators should be more common.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 04-11-2020, 01:03 PM
Joanna (Lisa)
Registered User

Joanna is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 1
thanks,i Managed to collimate my Tak. Not perfect but much better and i can do another round after a star test. the optical axis must go through the center of the corrector group.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 04-11-2020, 04:24 PM
garymck (Gary)
Registered User

garymck is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Geelong
Posts: 729
Any chance you give details of how to make one of these collimators?
Cheers
Gary
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 11-11-2020, 12:59 PM
Stefan Buda
Registered User

Stefan Buda is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 637
Do you have access to a lathe and a milling machine?
If you do, I can give you some guidelines.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 11-11-2020, 01:40 PM
tempestwizz's Avatar
tempestwizz (Brian)
Registered User

tempestwizz is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Townsville, Australia
Posts: 210
I too would be interested in fabricating one of these devices. I have access to a lathe and crude milling equipment. I would like to test/confirm my efforts at collimation of my Tak TOA130 were effective. My scope is located in remote Laos, and the concept of shipping is daunting.
Unfortunately, at the moment I’m in Australia, waiting for the opportunity to return to wife and family in Laos, but on my return I would like to try this out.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 11-11-2020, 04:13 PM
garymck (Gary)
Registered User

garymck is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Geelong
Posts: 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan Buda View Post
Do you have access to a lathe and a milling machine?
If you do, I can give you some guidelines.
Hi Stefan,
I have a Mill and a Lathe, as well as a cnc router.

cheers
Gary
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 13-11-2020, 09:31 AM
Stefan Buda
Registered User

Stefan Buda is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 637
Perfect, but I'm going through a bit of a hectic time. I'll get back with some guidelines in a few days.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 13-11-2020, 09:34 AM
Tinderboxsky's Avatar
Tinderboxsky (Steve)
I can see clearly now ...

Tinderboxsky is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kingston TAS
Posts: 742
I have all the equipment too and am following this with interest.
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old 14-11-2020, 10:10 AM
Sunfish's Avatar
Sunfish (Ray)
Registered User

Sunfish is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Wollongong
Posts: 1,226
If you have a 75mm focuser and a simple doublet or perhaps a triplet and can make a plate which screws into the focuser with a small hole in the centre with three equally spaced leds on the back as far apart as practical, that can work. That is what I used.

Will only work with a big 75 mm focuser other wise the reflected separation is too small to see without adding the collimating scope lenses as Tak and Grzybowski do. Stefan could make them easily and you could all buy one.

We could call it the Buda collimator.

I only added the t2 lense and projection reticle spacer in a 2inch eyepiece clamp to confirm the result by taking the photos.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 16-11-2020, 10:10 AM
Sunfish's Avatar
Sunfish (Ray)
Registered User

Sunfish is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Wollongong
Posts: 1,226
Like this worked for me for an obvious correction on a doublet. Three LED on the back of a cheap 72mm to t2 adapter. Maybe 50mm would work. I used an adapted camping light but you can buy a three led disk online.

The spacing of the led needs to be at least 20mm centre to centre to give enough separation for naked eye adjustment viewing through a 5mm hole in the centre.

You can also use an eyepiece projection tube and two old stacked Plossl to get focus for a closer view.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (9406E6A1-2A2A-4431-9FEA-1D0439546ED5.jpg)
181.4 KB16 views
Click for full-size image (B1C03011-D37D-4D1C-BF3C-210A52C77E9F.jpg)
186.1 KB13 views
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old Yesterday, 07:27 PM
Stefan Buda
Registered User

Stefan Buda is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 637
Sorry for the delayed response. Among other things I had to deal with a HDD crash on my main PC. Slowly restoring all my apps now.

I'll let the photos do the explaining. The most difficult thing was getting the power cable to the LEDs go through the housing in a neat way.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (Grzy1.JPG)
158.8 KB13 views
Click for full-size image (Grzy2.JPG)
158.3 KB10 views
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +10. The time is now 03:13 AM.

Powered by vBulletin Version 3.8.7 | Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertisement
Testar
Advertisement
Limpet Controller
Advertisement
Bintel
Advertisement
NexDome Observatories
Advertisement
Astronomy and Electronics Centre
Advertisement