I've put together some video tutorials on the new PHD2 polar alignment tools: Polar Drift Alignment (PDA) and Static Polar Alignment (SPA)
They can be viewed at https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Gwbutr2z_yabD8
All feedback is welcome.
Hope you find them useful
Hi Ken
May I compliment you on your videos well done and most thoughtful for you to take your time to help others.
I would like to suggest numbering them to indicate a viewing order.
I supose my purchase of a polemaster has been a waste of money or do you think it useful to have a scope dedicated to the task. It has yet to arrive.
Again well done. Thank you.
Alex
Alex, if you use a guidescope, then I found Polemaster completely redundant compared to the software of SharpCap. The other night, I hand-carried out my mount again, plonked it on the little concrete pads I poured into the dirt a while ago, and honestly, within exactly 3 minutes I had it reporting EXCELLENT polar alignment with an error of a mere 2" (2 seconds) in Azimuth (elevation was 0°0.0').
I recommend of course Polemaster for visual (still requires a laptop to run), but if you portable image with a guidescope and laptop, you cannot beat SharpCap. Plus it's only £10 per year for the licence (it does not stop functionality if you don't renew). That about 25 years of SharpCap Pro licence if you equate that to the cost of Polemaster
Thanks for the videos too Ken - if I still used PHD2 (entirely gone to MaxIM 6 for everything now), I'd give it a shot.
Hi Alex,
I prefer Polemaster over Sharpcap. In particular, it enables me to polar align without having my OTA attached - this is an advantage if you have a heavy setup and a mount with old-style bolts that struggle to move axes when fully loaded. Also, if you use an OAG, I again recommend PM, but this will depend on your OTA.
I doubt you will dislike it, but each to their own...I'll follow Ken's vids and see how PHD2 suits for some setups.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xelasnave
Hi Ken
I supose my purchase of a polemaster has been a waste of money or do you think it useful to have a scope dedicated to the task. It has yet to arrive.
I know what will happen I will have a go at both only to find I am back to the lucky days I could see the stars and plock the mount down and it is spot on ... all that time on the pool table pays off ☺
Well I will try both being able to leave the scope off appeals given the dew I expect thru winter at least up North.
O cant see the pole here and so far its hit and miss 15 degrees of sky all North ...
Anyways its like the Gimp improvement ...the day before I hear about it I buy photos shop elements...but out of it all you find different things can do different jobs.
Alex
Hi Ken
May I compliment you on your videos well done and most thoughtful for you to take your time to help others.
I would like to suggest numbering them to indicate a viewing order.
I supose my purchase of a polemaster has been a waste of money or do you think it useful to have a scope dedicated to the task. It has yet to arrive.
Again well done. Thank you.
Alex
Thanks for the kind words, Alex and good suggestion on the numbering. I've done that now.
Its always hard to know whether something has been a waste of money or not as everyone's situation is different. My motivation for writing the tools was a combination of intellectual curiosity and being a scrooge.
FWIW, I find very little difference between the aligns in both Polemaster native software and using sharpcap with 3 different cameras (PM / Starshoot / Hypercam 183C).
Infact I would tend away from reliance solely using Sharpcap as the cameras often disagree on the same rig.
FWIW, I find very little difference between the aligns in both Polemaster native software and using sharpcap with 3 different cameras (PM / Starshoot / Hypercam 183C).
Infact I would tend away from reliance solely using Sharpcap as the cameras often disagree on the same rig.
I'd agree too, but the results I got with Polemaster were really average at best - so much so I simply sold it (I really hope they have addressed the sub-standard confusing instructions!). Sharpcap conversely has given me such good polar alignments (and with VERY clear instructions). Horses for courses I guess.
Only 4 months into astrophotography, I polar align my HEQ5 mount using the Synscan polar alignment procedure with hand controller and illuminated reticle eye piece and have achieved a best PAE of Alt 000 00’ 28” and Az 000 00’ 35” It takes at least 3 to 4 shots to achieve this accuracy
I’m getting exposures of up to 1 minute 30 sec before the start of star trailing
Later in the year, next step is to get a guide scope, laptop, Stellarium, ascom , Stellarium scope , PHD2, Photoshop , backyard EOS etc etc ... to advance to the next level
Is it worthwhile having my Canon 600D modified ( remove IR filter ) through the Camera Clinic in Melbourne ?
Once you start guiding, give the PHD2 polar alignment tools a try.
As for modding the camera, I’d suggest you start a separate thread on that as you’ll be more likely to get responses than in this one.
You can use either. I use my imaging cam because I've got an OAG on a long FL scope so the field of view on the guide cam is too small and a bit distorted. When I had the ST80 for guiding that worked just fine.
Had a go at using the PDA tool last night for a tester as I have just rebuilt my Obs after purchasing a new house.
Can you please tell me if I'm heading in the right direction looking at the attached image??
Many thanks
Paul
That looks ok. You'll need to adjust the altitude and azimuth bolts to move the guide star to the edge of the screen along the red line. Once there run PDA again and with a bit of luck you'll see the red circle at the end of the line. Adjust the mount again to put the star in the red circle and you are done.