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Old 15-11-2014, 12:08 PM
RickJames (Rick)
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Location: Auckland
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Will my plan work?

OK - brand new to this. Here's my plan - can I ask for comments and if it will work or not?

Here's what I have
- iOptron25 goto mount
- Nikon bodies (5100 thu d800) - unmodified
- 70-200 f2.8
- 1.2 & 2x converters if required
- laptop
- backyard Nikon beta
- possible purchase of Alignmaster

That's all I own, and being that I purchsed the mount means I'm into this about $1500 (camera gear previously existed) I feel I just want to start out with no further investment.

Happy to sub, but hoping to get at least 30-60s unguided to start with.

NZ user, so have heard of DARV, and Alginmaster, and would like to keep things simple before guiding etc.

Can I expect to grab some simple images up to 60s unguided with that kind of simple polar alignment?

Otherwise, I'll stick to my day job which at least pays me for taking photographs!

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Old 15-11-2014, 01:13 PM
SteveInNZ
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 209
Hell yes.
Both Celestron and Skywatcher have polar alignment functions in the mount. Maybe the iOptron does too. If you find a polar alignment method that works for you, you're in business.
If you just do 30sec subs, you can use a simple remote release.

This was a 300mm lens, but a standard 50D, 30 second subs unguided.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/...660c5487_z.jpg
Andromeda Galaxy (M31) by stevetla, on Flickr

This was the same 50D and 200mm lens, 20 sec subs unguided. I've converted it to negaitive as it's easier to see the 204 galaxies that have been identified in the shot.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3898/...1eb47474_z.jpg
Virgo cluster labelled by stevetla, on Flickr

Steve.

PS. Welcome to IIS.
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Old 15-11-2014, 02:02 PM
RickJames (Rick)
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whoa! Stunning. Your other images are brilliant also. Most impressed.

Well, I have nothing but to get out there and try it.

Do you happen to know if the DARV technique requires the alignment star to be on the horizon or can it be slightly higher? I have my own house blocking anything low level etc.

Thanks again. Rick
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Old 15-11-2014, 03:09 PM
SteveInNZ
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Anything below about 15-20 degrees from the horizon is made mushy and bounces around due to the atmosphere so you're best to stay out of that area. From there, as you go higher the technique becomes less accurate.

You mentioned the 70-200mm but if you have wider lenses, I'd suggest using those. Maybe you have a fast 85mm or 50mm or even wider. For example, the southern cross fits nicely in a 50mm lens on a crop body. So does Orion.

Steve.
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  #5  
Old 15-11-2014, 03:28 PM
RickJames (Rick)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInNZ View Post
Anything below about 15-20 degrees from the horizon is made mushy and bounces around due to the atmosphere so you're best to stay out of that area. From there, as you go higher the technique becomes less accurate.

You mentioned the 70-200mm but if you have wider lenses, I'd suggest using those. Maybe you have a fast 85mm or 50mm or even wider. For example, the southern cross fits nicely in a 50mm lens on a crop body. So does Orion.

Steve.
Thanks - I may go ahead and purchase Alignmaster. I believe I can use backyard Nikon as the alignment 'camera' with my DSLR
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