Anyone have one or know of someone's joy or disappointment with one?
I am thinking of getting one rather than a 16 inch but would like to hear any comments that will make me feel confident or conversely change my mind.
All guidance will be greatly appreciated.
What appeals for me over a Newtoian is it seems it would be well balanced, over a refractors, say 150 mm it seems cheap for the app.
Long fl is a little worry that's why I am thinking 12 over a 16 as although it's still a long fl with a FR it hopefully will be usable,,but no good it you get stars like seagulls of course.
Alex
I have a GSO 12" RC which I have had almost two years. I dragged it out this morning and set it up on the EQ8 to attempt some imaging tonight - depends on the wind at this stage.
Collimation can be a pain, although it holds collimation well and despite not having been on the mount for 12 months, when I checked collimation earlier it hadn't moved and that was after it had a road trip to and from astrofest.
I replaced the focuser on mine, I have a Nitecrawler on it but I also use the Nitecrawler on two of my Esprits. To get balance I had to get a 3rd counterweight.
It is heavy, I can get it on the mount on my own with care, but is also the bulk and awkward nature of the beast that can make it a challenge. You will also need a tilt plate to correct tilt and get collimation, I use a tak collimating scope and have got the collimation as good as I can get it without ripping too much hair out.
All going well tonight, if I can get an image from it I will upload it. I haven't been out for almost 3 months because of work and need to get the mount polar aligned again and guiding with the RC 12, its more of a challenge at just over 2.4 metres compared to the Esprit 150 at just on a metre.
Thanks you very much for your post Brian I hope you get a run although three months is a big gap between drinks.
I have a tilt plate someplace but no other tools like scope or laser... I plan on getting a motor hoist from a car place and set up a bench to work on it..the observatory is roomy so I figure having a bench and a hoist may be good thinking...I am not too worried as I have a few off beat ideas on lining everything up...I also plan to go for an eq8...how do you like it? The new model or the motor off to the side?
The cost of a night crawler freaks me out but the saving between the 16 inch and the 12 inch must near cover it...Given I plan putting a bed and stove in the observatory I may get away without one being Johnny on the spot...actually I will be happy if it performs good enough so as to make a better focuser relevant.
We may end up with similar gear in that I have an Espirit 80mm and a 115 mm triplet. I use a different camera ...I plan on getting the 12 a camera but not sure what to get..I figure to run a .63 or .67 reducer, but maybe try without first..I don't know...I will buy a reducer and oag at the main purchase.
Do you have a shroud or dew prevention gear?
Thanks again the fact someone else has one and not saying forget it helps.
Alex
Im selling one RC12 tuned by professional workshop. It has Integra 85 rotatorfocuser and automatic flatpanel, mirrorheating, fans and mirrorcell totally reworked. Check out Astromart RC section.
As you might know I own a 12"RC and have produced many images from it, some of my best in some cases.
I have spent a great deal of time learning about RC collimation and the nuances of the scopes. I encourage you to do a fair bit of reading on these scopes.
You need to use a shroud, it is necessary as the light crossing the light path does cause problems for imaging. This design has a very low contrast, any light crossing the light path will reduce that contrast further.
A new focuser is necessary too. I have used an Atlas and Nitecrawler on it. You might consider something cheaper.
Collimation will require the use of a Takahashi collimation scope. It will get you into good collimation quickly and only just need a star test with a slight tweak to get great collimation.
Thank you Paul.
Collimation does not worry me too much although my initial interest in the scope was tweaked by me interpreting Bintels adds in a very positive way and assuming such was not an issue.
I figured on needing a good focuser and was leaning to the Night Crawler in spite of its unfortunate name.
As you know stray light is a bit of an obsession with me and although I knew a shroud would be a must have I also like to have an extended baffled dew tube or a flocked dew tube at least and to set things up the way I would like in this area is cumbersome and it is this aspect that is causing me hesitation...there is a solid tube version, which I have not looked into which may well have the same mirrors ... if same optics it is more appealing, leaving aside flex issues because I could baffle the OTA and add my baffled dew tube with no worries other than it would be a big job...and given the mount can manage much more weight adding structure to the OTA via bracing of some kind may minimise flex...and my biggest problem is I have this thing that if there is a problem I want to solve it..the collimation thing I already have a bench in mind a hoist to move the scope a jig to be able to rotate the scope on said bench and untested methods of assisting collimation...I go over board in other words...then I think damn it go the 16 inch and make it work...all this in a context that I only recently got into gear to make my auto guide work and still have to get into the habit of using goto....fortunately I have been busy with other related projects, sorting out the roll off roof observatory, motorising, furniture and it's own power, additional flooring not to mention clearing up all the trees I had cut down to get sky and as Bush fire barrier, although now I think about it the guy should be starting next week..I must ring him and find out the exact day he is to start...
Thank you very much for your comments you must know I respect and appreciate your views...
Im selling one RC12 tuned by professional workshop. It has Integra 85 rotatorfocuser and automatic flatpanel, mirrorheating, fans and mirrorcell totally reworked. Check out Astromart RC section.
Thanks I tried to find it after your PM had no luck perhaps you could provide a link or post some details here which if nothing else would give you additional exposure...one question I need an answer to..where is the scope located?
In regards to a focuser, I recommend having a look at Optec LEO - should be an excellent alternative to Atlas and Crawler.
Thank you will look into it.
In respect to collimation I found this...part one of three but makes it seem less of a worry...unless the primary is off centre which I picked as as a possibility somewhere in my searching...perhaps need a way to check optical centre..there must be a way...just in case the factory has it off centre...even with this system off centre optics would send you bats. Anyways I will find out how to check.
I have yet to see if the units are still available..must be if not why not and is there a business opportunity...video is seven years old I think.
The interesting thing is this involves projecting concentric circles which was essentially one of my rat bag ideas but I was thinking of a jig to rotate with a beam at various positions and note if it moved..much better to be able to project circle I expect.
Teleskop-services is working with a manufacturer to produce a new style RC, CC, etc collimation tool, which looks pretty good. It is alot cheaper than the Hotech system. I am on the wait list for it. Supposedly late August availability, price 107 Euro. It was originally supposed to be late June available, but the manufacturer is in Italy (virus impacted according to Riccardo at TS).
> I have yet to see if the units are still available..must be if not why not and is there a business opportunity...video is seven years old I think.
They're still available from starlight instruments direct, not cheap but I had a 2" version arrive about 3 weeks ago from them. I couldn't get the primary perfect with it, but knowing the secondary is good means I just needed minor tweaks of only the primary under the stars to go from good stars to great. They're not quite perfect yet but given I'm still manually focussing I let it be (for now!)
Definitely interested to hear what people are doing for dew though, I've only ever had issues with the secondary rarely, so I have diWHY solution - looking for less jank options!
As you might know I own a 12"RC and have produced many images from it, some of my best in some cases.
I have spent a great deal of time learning about RC collimation and the nuances of the scopes. I encourage you to do a fair bit of reading on these scopes.
You need to use a shroud, it is necessary as the light crossing the light path does cause problems for imaging. This design has a very low contrast, any light crossing the light path will reduce that contrast further.
A new focuser is necessary too. I have used an Atlas and Nitecrawler on it. You might consider something cheaper.
Collimation will require the use of a Takahashi collimation scope. It will get you into good collimation quickly and only just need a star test with a slight tweak to get great collimation.
They are good bang for buck.
Alex, Paul is the man with these. He helped me too. For focuser - can’t go wrong with either the 2” or 3” Optec TCFs. I’ve had both. OPT sell a lovely bundle for the 2” which includes the correct adapter to the GSO spacer rings.
Alex, Paul is the man with these. He helped me too. For focuser - can’t go wrong with either the 2” or 3” Optec TCFs. I’ve had both. OPT sell a lovely bundle for the 2” which includes the correct adapter to the GSO spacer rings.
I have been looking at Opted but, although it only now hit me so I need to check, I am sure they mentioned that computer controls were via lynex?
But what a beautiful looking unit and just on appearance and bulk I like it.
I have been looking at the solid tube unit which oddly is far more appealing to me as I don't like the shroud approach but mainly I like to instal a short baffled dew tube to restrict as much star nearby star light as possible, ( they do it on Hubble in effect and I have convinced myself that at my dark site bright stars are like street lights to city astronomers.) Anyways shielding the carbon fiber unit would be a big deal for me.
Flex may be an issue as I expect the tube will be tin can stuff with a seam that will open..if anything like my 8 inch Newtonian..with it and if I ever get around to it I planed to add something, a strip of aluminium, or fiber glass it..something ..but with the RC I have not idea ...anyways I am sure I can overcome flex..mmm cover the tube in carbon fiber and layer in carbon fiber poles in a pipe like configuration to pump coolant and main temperature equilibrium...but the solid tube is much cheaper so if I don't find I can set it up, manage the focal length whatever my losses should be less...the trouble is you gotta buy and try...
Thank you for your reassuring words I really do appreciate you sharing your experience.
Alex
I have been looking at Opted but, although it only now hit me so I need to check, I am sure they mentioned that computer controls were via lynex?
But what a beautiful looking unit and just on appearance and bulk I like it.
I have been looking at the solid tube unit which oddly is far more appealing to me as I don't like the shroud approach but mainly I like to instal a short baffled dew tube to restrict as much star nearby star light as possible, ( they do it on Hubble in effect and I have convinced myself that at my dark site bright stars are like street lights to city astronomers.) Anyways shielding the carbon fiber unit would be a big deal for me.
Flex may be an issue as I expect the tube will be tin can stuff with a seam that will open..if anything like my 8 inch Newtonian..with it and if I ever get around to it I planed to add something, a strip of aluminium, or fiber glass it..something ..but with the RC I have not idea ...anyways I am sure I can overcome flex..mmm cover the tube in carbon fiber and layer in carbon fiber poles in a pipe like configuration to pump coolant and main temperature equilibrium...but the solid tube is much cheaper so if I don't find I can set it up, manage the focal length whatever my losses should be less...the trouble is you gotta buy and try...
Thank you for your reassuring words I really do appreciate you sharing your experience.
Alex
Alex, The metal tube version of the GSO RC12 will be subject to tube expansion affects due to thermal changes, which affect focus etc. There is no carbon fibre tube version available in Australia. You can buy the carbon tube based version from Teleskop-Services in Germany,
If you have to have the carbon tube version it might be worth asking Luke at Andrews if they can import one for you. The cost of importing one from TS, given shipping, and GST, maybe more expensive than just opting for the locally available truss version.
I note that the AUD exchange rate has improved lately, over 70 cents US, which might help getting one from Andrews. Worth asking in my opinion.
A much lower cost option might be to just buy the bare 12" pre drilled carbon tube from TS, at around 570 euro, and move the metal tube components across to the carbon tube. In this scenario you would buy the GSO RC 12 metal model from Andrews to get all the mirrors, carriers, spider, etc, and just install those items directly into the TS tube.
Alex, The metal tube version of the GSO RC12 will be subject to tube expansion affects due to thermal changes, which affect focus etc. There is no carbon fibre tube version available in Australia. You can buy the carbon tube based version from Teleskop-Services in Germany,
If you have to have the carbon tube version it might be worth asking Luke at Andrews if they can import one for you. The cost of importing one from TS, given shipping, and GST, maybe more expensive than just opting for the locally available truss version.
I note that the AUD exchange rate has improved lately, over 70 cents US, which might help getting one from Andrews. Worth asking in my opinion.
A much lower cost option might be to just buy the bare 12" pre drilled carbon tube from TS, at around 570 euro, and move the metal tube components across to the carbon tube. In this scenario you would buy the GSO RC 12 metal model from Andrews to get all the mirrors, carriers, spider, etc, and just install those items directly into the TS tube.
Just an idea, which i had considered for a large GSO Newt conversion.
Your can read my mind I swears.
I have been on Telskop site this morning and noticed the carbon fiber tube ..I thought it was possible to replace the metal tube but I got sidetracked without looking very deeply to see if it was really what I thought it was...but it is you say..that's great..I have been thinking about the temp changing but notice of late here the temp does not seem to fluctuate..it's freezing all night..but I am well sheltered here so maybe fluctuation is not too bad...I could make a carbon fiber tube myself..it is only fiber glassing using carbon fiber mat rather than glass matt ( which after years of boat life I am rather handy at)...making a mould is not beyond me...but these days I probably would just buy one..although making one I could incorporate the baffled dew tube .Perhaps first get the metal tube version, do some visual and get a feel for it before I spend money on it, take some photos using a guide scope rather than OAG see if I can manage collimanation etc, and if ok and needed go for the tube and focuser...even leave reducer until going for final set up photograph the Moon to get a feel.
And I will do as you suggest and see where Andrews stand re carbon fiber tube..they may already have plans regarding getting them in even..Will they will after I chat to them
Thanks for you suggestions and input I really do appreciate your help as you know.
I have been on Telskop site this morning and noticed the carbon fiber tube ..I thought it was possible to replace the metal tube but I got sidetracked without looking very deeply to see if it was really what I thought it was...but it is you say..that's great..I have been thinking about the temp changing but notice of late here the temp does not seem to fluctuate..it's freezing all night..but I am well sheltered here so maybe fluctuation is not too bad...I could make a carbon fiber tube myself..it is only fiber glassing using carbon fiber mat rather than glass matt ( which after years of boat life I am rather handy at)...making a mould is not beyond me...but these days I probably would just buy one..although making one I could incorporate the baffled dew tube .Perhaps first get the metal tube version, do some visual and get a feel for it before I spend money on it, take some photos using a guide scope rather than OAG see if I can manage collimanation etc, and if ok and needed go for the tube and focuser...even leave reducer until going for final set up photograph the Moon to get a feel.
And I will do as you suggest and see where Andrews stand re carbon fiber tube..they may already have plans regarding getting them in even..Will they will after I chat to them
Thanks for you suggestions and input I really do appreciate your help as you know.
Alex
Happy to help with suggestions, Alex. I think the advantages of the TS carbon tube are pretty obvious, it is made in Germany using a precision mold, and is pre-drilled for the GSO components to drop right in. Being light weight and unequipped, it is an item that his fairly reasonable to ship to Australia via UPS.
Finally, resale value, not to be skoffed at in a scope that size.
And yes, buying and using the metal tube version for awhile might be a good starting point, as you say, it might be fine for your situation, located inside an observatory in northern NSW. Of course, the metal tube version is also considerably cheaper, a consideration for cheapskates like myself.
Thanks I tried to find it after your PM had no luck perhaps you could provide a link or post some details here which if nothing else would give you additional exposure...one question I need an answer to..where is the scope located?
Thanks but it's too far away for me to inspect and given the exchange rate it will come in at what a new 16 inch would cost..I would be tempted if that old mount was included
Nice image and nice to see what can be produced when the scope is set up and in the right hands.
Alex
Happy to help with suggestions, Alex. I think the advantages of the TS carbon tube are pretty obvious, it is made in Germany using a precision mold, and is pre-drilled for the GSO components to drop right in. Being light weight and unequipped, it is an item that his fairly reasonable to ship to Australia via UPS.
Finally, resale value, not to be skoffed at in a scope that size.
And yes, buying and using the metal tube version for awhile might be a good starting point, as you say, it might be fine for your situation, located inside an observatory in northern NSW. Of course, the metal tube version is also considerably cheaper, a consideration for cheapskates like myself.
I looked again..about $800 which is a lot of money for a plastic tube. I wonder if the tube is baffled..should be for strength. But $2500 plus $800 would give you a better scope, me at least as I don't like the poles, well I do but you have to hide them,..at less money. I did not ring Andrews mainly to not put in an order, which I probably would because I want this to happen but I need to think it thru a little more...Interesting I have given much thought to fabricating a tube and it could be done relatively easily and professionally by using the metal tube to make a good male mold ( fill in the seam mostly ) take off a glass mold to use for the carbon fibre..but a tube with my extention and baffles would be ideal...Bunnings appear to sell it in some sort of cement repair kit but it is not cheap but I will work out material costs and suppliers out of interest but by the time you make the mold which would take a couple of hundred I expect in resin glass etc...well the costs add up...I thought maybe placing a couple of Peltier units on the metal tube to manage temp.
Alex
