tube rings for williams optical 132mm OTA And getting it operational
due to unforeseen circumstances i have mysteriously adopted a WO132 f7 triplet. it looks like one of the original ones and came with a case but strangely it didnt have rings. so what would be my options for getting rings for this?
Just a thought, can you successfully make out of hardwood timber ring blocks.? I already have the top and bottom losmandy bars. So if I made them thick and lined with felt and protected with paint?
Wood and felt would work, myself I would swap the solid hardwood out in exchange for hardwood plywood like apple or Baltic birch, as a split in solid wood may cause the ring to fail.
Another option would be to have them 3D printed. It shouldn't be difficult to find a person to print for you, I happen to know there is an enthusiastic base of 3D printers on your continent.
What you'll need to provide them is a STL file. (Forgive me if you know this already)
If you are able to make one out of wood, it would be very similar to draw one out of plastic. There are a plethora of software out there with various reason for choosing them, for various reasons I won't go into here, I would just go with one that is basic, easy to use (TinkerCAD? haven't tried it)and can get you a STL. (Even if you have to use a converter to get from the native output file to STL) Most common printer beds are ~8"/200mm square which should be big enough to print rings for your scope, perhaps even in one piece. (Print in PETG(Polyethylene), PLA will deform in heat, Nylon is extremely difficult to get it dry enough to print properly to enjoy any benefit.)
Either way, go with whatever is easiest. If you don't have the 3D printer physically close to you, perhaps it makes more sense to use wood should you have to reiterate a dimension.
The tube diameter of these should be 141mm, so 140mm rings will be fine considering you are merely crushing felt for about 2mm. A few options are out there (besides contacting WO for a set - the 132 is still in production):
I'd be taking a very close scrutiny of the objective if I were in your shoes - the corrosion on the thumb screws and the black filth on lots of places - degrading black foam by looks of it? - would lead me to believe it has had a life in the hands of someone who didn't take care too well.
The tube diameter of these should be 141mm, so 140mm rings will be fine considering you are merely crushing felt for about 2mm. A few options are out there (besides contacting WO for a set - the 132 is still in production):
I'd be taking a very close scrutiny of the objective if I were in your shoes - the corrosion on the thumb screws and the black filth on lots of places - degrading black foam by looks of it? - would lead me to believe it has had a life in the hands of someone who didn't take care too well.
Thanks for that. It wasn't looked after well and was from a deceased estate however I will give it a good clean
Wood and felt would work, myself I would swap the solid hardwood out in exchange for hardwood plywood like apple or Baltic birch, as a split in solid wood may cause the ring to fail.
Another option would be to have them 3D printed. It shouldn't be difficult to find a person to print for you, I happen to know there is an enthusiastic base of 3D printers on your continent.
What you'll need to provide them is a STL file. (Forgive me if you know this already)
If you are able to make one out of wood, it would be very similar to draw one out of plastic. There are a plethora of software out there with various reason for choosing them, for various reasons I won't go into here, I would just go with one that is basic, easy to use (TinkerCAD? haven't tried it)and can get you a STL. (Even if you have to use a converter to get from the native output file to STL) Most common printer beds are ~8"/200mm square which should be big enough to print rings for your scope, perhaps even in one piece. (Print in PETG(Polyethylene), PLA will deform in heat, Nylon is extremely difficult to get it dry enough to print properly to enjoy any benefit.)
Either way, go with whatever is easiest. If you don't have the 3D printer physically close to you, perhaps it makes more sense to use wood should you have to reiterate a dimension.
So would you use a laminate block?
Never seen a 3d printed part to take the weight before, the scope isn't light.
well someone on IIS has sold me on a set of non genuine rings that measures internally 142mm so i have taken them up on the offer. i did get a price for the genuine ones from williams optics - not cheap but i will get a set for the future.
so i managed to clean it up a bit, lots of scrubbing and using some magic Bintel lollie water for the optics and some orange power cleaner for the tube and dew shield. its come up a treat the amount of crud on the lens was incredible, the magic water from bintel is amazing, it is indeed divine intervention as they come up sparkly and new.
The scope has had a hard life, lots of salt air apparently, then years of being in a shed where it was not loved up the hunter valley and the drought dust was thick. So i vacuumed out the case where there was a heap of red dust and replaced the screw that held a finder bracket on the scope, it was pushing on the focuser and has marked it over the time the last owner used it, so i put on a new finder bracket. the focuser works very smoothly now, no impairments.
The next thing i need is some batteries for the finderscope reticle.
Do send the scopes serial to WO and ask if it is one of the 132's that require either a replacement lens cell or complete objective replacement - some of the earlier generation 132's have pinching and other issues and give quite sub-par results. I believe they offered free replacement (postage extra)
Do send the scopes serial to WO and ask if it is one of the 132's that require either a replacement lens cell or complete objective replacement - some of the earlier generation 132's have pinching and other issues and give quite sub-par results. I believe they offered free replacement (postage extra)
Dear David.
First generation FLT132 which was made 8-10 years ago had the aluminum lens cell. If you use the telescope in cold weather minus 10C aluminum will shrink and add some pressure on lens cell as a result the lens will get pinched and you have to loose collimation screws.
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Dear David.
So how the customer was using the scope without rings and plate?
That means no one was using the scope for many years.
This is your risk purchasing used scope, if the telescope is in perfect condition without defects that's ok, but if it was dropped, damaged, never used I would like to let you know since you are not the original owner and I am guessing that is first generation FLT132 which was made over 10 years ago, in case of any lens defects the lens can't be repaired because new lens design is different now.
Regards,
Tim
WO
Dear David.
From the focuser i can tell this is first generation FLT132, made around 10 years ago.
First we made in 2006.
If the place you live the temperature goes below 0, we strongly recommend to use dewshield heater.
Also, you slightly can loose collimation screws, in case the aluminum shrink in cold weather, it wont add pressure on lens elements.
Regards,
Tim
WO
i received ta set of rings today, not quite perfect fit but very very close. it seems stable enough. enough for me to test with the system as is. but wont be for a few days
and fitted a new screw to mount the finderscope - the one that was on there left a mark on the focuser drawtube. oh and as usual the weather has changed.....
and had to use some vice grips to get the rings closed enough to do up the bolt
Sounds like they’re a bit tight! Take care you don’t damage the ota.
If you find it’s a keeper K-astec make superb tube rings to your requirements as do Peter Tan. Enjoy !
Sounds like they’re a bit tight! Take care you don’t damage the ota.
If you find it’s a keeper K-astec make superb tube rings to your requirements as do Peter Tan. Enjoy !
I can get genuine WO ones which should be the best design
well i thought long and hard and spotlight didn't have felt thin and strong enough so i did was any self respecting astronomer would do, i velcroed it
i used the soft smooth part of the combination and it made a huge difference. its a very snug fit but it was easier to do up - still used the pliers to finger tighten up the screw.
then i had a thought - i don't want to take the RASA out of the dome so what could I do? I frankenseined it, took apart a set of rings i had to get the bases and did the unthinkable.........
now to mount it.... though no rush as with anything astro the terrifying bush fires and cloud have stopped anything for tonight.