Lunt and Coronado solar scopes are very good. there is also now a daystar (?) eyepiece that can be used with existing scopes for solar viewing in Ha.
You dont look for features, you need to first define what you want to observe or photograph in particular then look for what the features of solar scope will allow you the best view.
I have a double stacked Coronado, and it came with its own eyepiece which is just fine. The various parts of the scope can be adjusted to help you focus on the features you want, its not just about moving the eyepiece, its a very different beast.
Lunt seem to have the best options if you want to go beyond Ha like CaK. A white light solar filter on a regular scope will give you a fairly flat sharp image of the solar disc and sunspots. Generally other features are not visible with this filter.
Just a warning, don't expect to see in the eyepiece the images you see online. The "affordable" solar scopes are filtered to Ha so everything is in shades of red at the eyepiece and can take a bit of time and practice to get used to. Tuning in on various features of the sun can be tricky to adjust to.
I think it just comes down to Lunt or Coronado. Since you asked I can assume you are not studying a particular feature in which case you would be able to answer the question yourself. I believe the eyepiece filter for regular telescopes are pretuned for either surface or prominence viewing, but a Lunt or Coronado should let you view all the suns features
Hopefully I'm not hijacking the thread but looking at Ha solar scopes around that $2k range here I'm hoping somebody can shed some light on the differences.
Specifically why is a larger blocking filter better? (eg B600 vs B1200)
And what practical difference does pressure tuning make in these scopes?
Also would you get better views from a smaller aperture with PT vs a larger one without? (eg LS50THa/PT/B600 vs LS60THa/B600C)
I've had a PST, a Lunt 35, Lunt 60 PT and currently a Lunt PT 50 Double stack and I have to say the double stack is wonderful and easily the best. In single stack mode the resolution is obviously less than the 60mm but still quite acceptable (to me). By undoing the fitting on the B600 blocking filter and using a short adapter I can get focus on the full disk using the Gstar 3 camera no sweat at all even though Lunt recommend the B1200 for imaging.
I'm happy with what I have now - unless the wife lets me buy a Lunt 80DS
Specifically why is a larger blocking filter better? (eg B600 vs B1200)
A larger blocking filter isn't necessarily "better" than a smaller one. The size of the BF determines at which point that filter starts to vignette the image produced by the telescope's objective. Because longer FL objectives produce larger images, the BF needs to increase with the focal length (not the aperture) of the objective used. The impact of using too small a BF is worst when you can't observe the full disk plus some extra space around it for proms (a fine sight), even when the scope and eyepiece would allow you to do so. I understand larger BFs are needed for imaging than for visual because of the sensor's different location along the light path. You might also need a larger BF if your scope is on a non tracking mount, to allow room for movement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluto
And what practical difference does pressure tuning make in these scopes?
Also would you get better views from a smaller aperture with PT vs a larger one without? (eg LS50THa/PT/B600 vs LS60THa/B600C)
The "sweet spot" - that part of the view where detail is best - is said to be larger in a PT scope.
Generally I'd still go for the larger aperture. It will show more close up detail that's beyond the smaller scope, pressure tuned or not. However in your example the difference in aperture probably isn't big enough for that to be of any tangible effect, so PT might have a slight edge here.
Hopefully I'm not hijacking the thread but looking at Ha solar scopes around that $2k range here
Hi Hugh, just another note - have you considered a Daystar Quark to use with your TSA? That combo should outclass the other scopes at anything except maybe full disk viewing (for which you could get a used PST and still be within budget overall).
Hi Hugh, just another note - have you considered a Daystar Quark to use with your TSA? That combo should outclass the other scopes at anything except maybe full disk viewing (for which you could get a used PST and still be within budget overall).
Actually I've just got rid of my Tak (I'll have to update my sig!) but I have definitely considered the Quark plus an ED80 or something. I have a 120mm f5 achro which might be alright with the Quark but I've read they work best when at around f30 so, taking into account their integrated 4.3x barlow, it would be better with something around f7.
Thanks for clearing that up. I used to have a PST so I'm familiar with how that worked, and the views, but I've had no experience with pricier dedicated solar scopes.
Also is the result of double stacking to increase the contrast? does it actually reveal anything that wouldn't be visible to a non double stacked scope? (something at 0.7A)
Hi Mel, the 50mm Lunts Hugh has linked to in his post (LS50Tha) are likely to deliver what you are asking for. B400 blocking filter will be fine, especially if not imaging. I note that Andrews are showing double stacked scopes in both pics for some reason. What you will get will look different. It won't have the dark red (tilt-tuned) front filter unit attached unless you specifically order a double stacked unit.
@Hugh - Yes, double stacking will increase contrast on the disk. By logic that should bring out features not visible in single mode, but because double stacking also dims the image, I haven't been able to answer that question for myself yet. So my inconclusive observations so far are that the amount of detail visible is about the same (but easier to see), and the image dimmer and more contrasty (some say more aesthetic), than single stack. Comparisons were made using the pressure tuned Lunt LS50Tha.
What was the lowest power you used in your PST - reason I'm asking is that the 10mm EP that came with my LS35Tha does not to that scope justice. Too much power, soft image. I use 18mm and 25mm orthos in that scope, and the views are superb. Single stack that is. Low power, of course.
It would be interesting to see how your achro (plus an extra barlow) would handle the daystar. More glass etc but probably still in a different class to the 50mm scopes. Alternatively, you could stop the achro down to f/7. Still better than 50mm, surely. I haven't tried either option myself but that's what I'd do if I was looking into H alpha gear at this point.
Can i ask if you all dont mind, a particular model of lunt or coronado?M11
The one you can afford.
When I got mine it seemed they come in basically one or two sizes (models) then all the others are variations with improved contrast/viewing to each of the tuners for different solar features. so eg buying the cheapest model 60mm Coronado still lets you see all the same solar features as the most expensive 60mm Coronado, the most expensive should let you see various features a bit better. I've only used my solarscope so I don't know if there is much difference though considering the price differences. I seem to recall hearing the differences are not startlingly clear for visual but for photometry/research they are worth it. The size differences in practice give you a differing field of view, with my 60mm I can see the full disc of the sun at once. I guess the 90mm is best if you are studying a single feature. I can only assume the Lunt 60mm gives the same field of view too with i think around 25mm eyepiece. My choice came down to price, there was a great deal on Coronados at the time so I went with the most expensive my budget could handle at the time to give me best all round performance for my money. They are pricey both L & C and you'll have pretty much the same performance with either.
If you have children I would think carefully about going with Coronado as the metal gold finish is very distinctive while a Lunt looks like an ordinary white telescope and a yound mind might not comprehend the distinction in regards to safety and pointing telescopes at the sun. I retired my Celestron 102 refractor to use the tracking mount for my Coronado. With GPS and a bit of deep menu hunting the mount will track the sun nicely for me.
Viewing the sun tends to be far more convenient than getting up at 2am to check cloud cover
What was the lowest power you used in your PST - reason I'm asking is that the 10mm EP that came with my LS35Tha does not to that scope justice. Too much power, soft image. I use 18mm and 25mm orthos in that scope, and the views are superb. Single stack that is. Low power, of course.
It would be interesting to see how your achro (plus an extra barlow) would handle the daystar. More glass etc but probably still in a different class to the 50mm scopes. Alternatively, you could stop the achro down to f/7. Still better than 50mm, surely. I haven't tried either option myself but that's what I'd do if I was looking into H alpha gear at this point.
I had a 7-21mm zoom EP when I had the PST so 21mm was the widest I went. I loved the views but it gave me a nasty case of aperture fever, so I sold it knowing that one day I'd buy a bigger one
I mainly want to image through it so I think I'd either go for the LS60THa/B600C or, more likely, the Quark (Chromosphere) as I don't really care so much about full disc views/images.
Thanks for that. I will look into that model. One thing i wasnt sure was if you need to buy different eyepieces?
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by N1
Hi Mel, the 50mm Lunts Hugh has linked to in his post (LS50Tha) are likely to deliver what you are asking for. B400 blocking filter will be fine, especially if not imaging. I note that Andrews are showing double stacked scopes in both pics for some reason. What you will get will look different. It won't have the dark red (tilt-tuned) front filter unit attached unless you specifically order a double stacked unit.
@Hugh - Yes, double stacking will increase contrast on the disk. By logic that should bring out features not visible in single mode, but because double stacking also dims the image, I haven't been able to answer that question for myself yet. So my inconclusive observations so far are that the amount of detail visible is about the same (but easier to see), and the image dimmer and more contrasty (some say more aesthetic), than single stack. Comparisons were made using the pressure tuned Lunt LS50Tha.
What was the lowest power you used in your PST - reason I'm asking is that the 10mm EP that came with my LS35Tha does not to that scope justice. Too much power, soft image. I use 18mm and 25mm orthos in that scope, and the views are superb. Single stack that is. Low power, of course.
It would be interesting to see how your achro (plus an extra barlow) would handle the daystar. More glass etc but probably still in a different class to the 50mm scopes. Alternatively, you could stop the achro down to f/7. Still better than 50mm, surely. I haven't tried either option myself but that's what I'd do if I was looking into H alpha gear at this point.
Thank for all the info. All good points and alot of stuff i havent even considered.
One question i had is it worth the additional cost of double stack or pressure tuned? I see that the same model as you mentioned has these features. I would like to buy once but not sure if it makes a major difference in viewing as i have no experience with solar scopes?
Thanks,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by sil
The one you can afford.
When I got mine it seemed they come in basically one or two sizes (models) then all the others are variations with improved contrast/viewing to each of the tuners for different solar features. so eg buying the cheapest model 60mm Coronado still lets you see all the same solar features as the most expensive 60mm Coronado, the most expensive should let you see various features a bit better. I've only used my solarscope so I don't know if there is much difference though considering the price differences. I seem to recall hearing the differences are not startlingly clear for visual but for photometry/research they are worth it. The size differences in practice give you a differing field of view, with my 60mm I can see the full disc of the sun at once. I guess the 90mm is best if you are studying a single feature. I can only assume the Lunt 60mm gives the same field of view too with i think around 25mm eyepiece. My choice came down to price, there was a great deal on Coronados at the time so I went with the most expensive my budget could handle at the time to give me best all round performance for my money. They are pricey both L & C and you'll have pretty much the same performance with either.
If you have children I would think carefully about going with Coronado as the metal gold finish is very distinctive while a Lunt looks like an ordinary white telescope and a yound mind might not comprehend the distinction in regards to safety and pointing telescopes at the sun. I retired my Celestron 102 refractor to use the tracking mount for my Coronado. With GPS and a bit of deep menu hunting the mount will track the sun nicely for me.
Viewing the sun tends to be far more convenient than getting up at 2am to check cloud cover
Hi Mel,
That LS50THa doesn't say that it comes with any eyepieces so you would need to buy something. Usually you go for an eyepiece that can show you a wide view of the whole disc of the Sun and then something that can show you some detail. Also you could buy a zoom eyepiece that possibly won't be as good as separate eyepieces but will make it a bit easier when observing. I had the Orion zoom and I thought it was pretty good.
I believe the duoble stack modules can be bought afterwards and then attached to the front of your scope. So you could buy that LS50THa now and then down the track if you want to spend more you can buy a double stack module for it.
Hi Mel, I'll add that whatever eyepieces you might be looking at - you do not need to go out of your way for special "H alpha-suitable" eyepieces (such as the Coronado Cemax or Lunt's equivalent). If they come with the scope that's fine but otherwise you can just use regular night time EPs with the specs you want (and as suggested by Hugh) and won't miss anything. In fact, the solar scope with its narrow band and FOV of interest and f/7 focal ratio will be a lot more forgiving than the night time one when it comes to oculars - from a design perspective. They still should be of reasonable quality!
Big outlay for double stack version - considering even the single version will impress for some time, especially if you haven't done much in H alpha before. Probably best to wait with the DS module until you better understand the difference it makes and whether that difference is worth the extra cash, to you.
Thanks for confirming that. I dont have a zoom piece as yet , will look yo acquire one and budget for that as well.
Ita good to know that you can upgrade your solar scope later. I didnt even consider that an option and was going to buy it all in one.
Regards,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluto
Hi Mel,
That LS50THa doesn't say that it comes with any eyepieces so you would need to buy something. Usually you go for an eyepiece that can show you a wide view of the whole disc of the Sun and then something that can show you some detail. Also you could buy a zoom eyepiece that possibly won't be as good as separate eyepieces but will make it a bit easier when observing. I had the Orion zoom and I thought it was pretty good.
I believe the duoble stack modules can be bought afterwards and then attached to the front of your scope. So you could buy that LS50THa now and then down the track if you want to spend more you can buy a double stack module for it.
Thank you for confirming that i can use the same eyepieces which i can now put more towards the scope.
I might wait later for the double stack then and get a single scope for now.
Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowlege
Regards,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by N1
Hi Mel, I'll add that whatever eyepieces you might be looking at - you do not need to go out of your way for special "H alpha-suitable" eyepieces (such as the Coronado Cemax or Lunt's equivalent). If they come with the scope that's fine but otherwise you can just use regular night time EPs with the specs you want (and as suggested by Hugh) and won't miss anything. In fact, the solar scope with its narrow band and FOV of interest and f/7 focal ratio will be a lot more forgiving than the night time one when it comes to oculars - from a design perspective. They still should be of reasonable quality!
Big outlay for double stack version - considering even the single version will impress for some time, especially if you haven't done much in H alpha before. Probably best to wait with the DS module until you better understand the difference it makes and whether that difference is worth the extra cash, to you.
I have the LS50THa/PT/B600 DS and would say that it is the perfect entry level Ha telescope. I have plenty of experience with other Lunt's and Coronado's (but never used a Daystar) and of course extra aperture gives better resolution - I believe that the 100mm DS Lunt is the sweetest of them all, more so than the 152, but as a single object instrument I'm not personally willing to part with that sort of $$$
The B600 blocking filter is worth the extra and makes the scope much easier to centre on the sweet spot both visually and photographically. I'd probably buy an even bigger BF if one existed for this scope.
The DS is critical in seeing the fine surface detail. Without it you will be looking at prominences and little else so figure it in to your purchase price. They can be in short supply too - I was lucky and got mine second hand.
Thanks for recommending that model. Its good to know what to look for a scope.
Looking at Andrews , most scope dont seem to not have ds , i assume you need to add it seperately?
Thanks,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroJunk
I have the LS50THa/PT/B600 DS and would say that it is the perfect entry level Ha telescope. I have plenty of experience with other Lunt's and Coronado's (but never used a Daystar) and of course extra aperture gives better resolution - I believe that the 100mm DS Lunt is the sweetest of them all, more so than the 152, but as a single object instrument I'm not personally willing to part with that sort of $$$
The B600 blocking filter is worth the extra and makes the scope much easier to centre on the sweet spot both visually and photographically. I'd probably buy an even bigger BF if one existed for this scope.
The DS is critical in seeing the fine surface detail. Without it you will be looking at prominences and little else so figure it in to your purchase price. They can be in short supply too - I was lucky and got mine second hand.
