OK, bugga the mill, you can carve aluminium with a sharp box knife. So I did.
There must some manufacturing differences between cameras because when I tried to use a single layer of Duct tape on the back of the finger as insulation it would not fit between the sensor and the board.
So switched to some very thin packing tape. Two layers on the back, one on the front against the sensor. I realise this will reduce the efficiency a wee bit but it allowed me to make an 'envelope' for the finger and thus insulate it away from the sensor pins. The tape is very strong but so thin it's see through and as I am not trying to get sub zero temps I don't think it will be a problem.
So we're heading to re-assembly time, Unfortunately the light where I am working is not good after dark and the sky is clearing so I might leave this till tomorrow when rain is predicted as a possibility.
Ignore the black duct tape coverage, that will get refined when I start the TEC install.
Brent, I see you taped over the holes, does that mean you not going to fasten the sensor board to the finger and just rely on tight fit? Good job on the bending area, looks very neat.
So far it seems to be unnecessary, a very firm fit but the tape is thin and I can poke through it if required. None of this is secured yet, we're still in 'suck it and see' mode.
I'm thinking about whether to bother with the Vid and Sound out connector board. If I dump it I can also remove the bracket and improve the thermal performance somewhat. It is very restrictive through that area with that big hole. Also means I could come out without the bend and get some more insulation around the finger which would help secure it and improve isolation. And I can make a better mount system for the finger. The camera will never be used conventionally even if I play with it as a IR camera on a lens.
Yep, I think that board just became redundant ....
Mk II in copper will be interesting. and simpler.
Brent, Relocating the connector board is an option. I've read on other forums about It's being attached to the bottom with the ribbon through a slot. However, if your controlling via usb and not using an intervalmetre then I guess It's not required.
The board is just for Audio\Video output, no other purpose. She is out of there, gone, redundant. Thats a minor weight saving but more importantly gives far better and simpler access for the finger.. The USB connection is on the main board just below it.
Didn't do nothing last night because the skies cleared and I collected some NGC 2070 and 47 Tuc photons.
That board is where the intervalmetre plugs in on the 450D so some people will still need It's, I certainly do because I don't like BYEOS changing my camera settings without permission.
OK, success, I now have an IR modded 450D with an aluminium plate hanging out the side waiting for a peltier unit.
I've left out the video\remote board as not required so the next finger will be a simpler design.
I've had one hiccup that looks like being a blessing. The sensor came unglued from the back of the plate which I thought was a disaster but I can now easily lift the sensor away for further modifications without having to remove the main board and all the plugs. It is now held with a pressure pad in the back of the rear cover and the locating pins keep it all square and flat. Works perfectly. I'll do some daylight testing and then look into the TEC side of things although I may as well wait for the copper to arrive ( Thanks Glen )
OK, more pix. Finger in and all closed up. Then some pix of the small TEC system. Not expecting this to go far down but if it stabilises the temp at 5-15* below ambient then it's working and I'll get more serious with the next stage.
And finally an IR pic of my messy office.
Still got to wire up the TEC and fan.
Sorry to brng this up, but did you verify cold side to cold finger before assembly? TECs are rarely marked. However, if backwards you can reverse polarity ( I believe).
Nah, I'll give it a quick burst and check. Easy enough to flip it over, just undo one wee bolt. Notice I bunged up the hole in the side with Styro, keeps it firm and isolated.
Weight in this configuration is just under 1 kg btw.
Rather pleased with this little project so far.
I'm just pleased and relieved it fired up first time when I put it all back together Dunk. I've more or less killed the KM 7D so it was fingers crossed all the way through. I'll wire up a block and do some prelim tests in the weekend. Currently though we are experiencing a bit of cloud cover, with minor thunder and rain so testing has been limited to just general sky pix. The tests are definitely in the pink
Cloud Nebula ......
Yeah I know how that feels Brent mucho surprise after all the hacking when my first one still powered up. It died of unnatural causes later though. Just be careful my second 1100D suffered a failure last night while trying to gather photons...the shutter is malfunctioning. Weird. Some parts seem robust one minute and delicate the next
Brent It's looks like you have some dirt on the cover glass. You can clean it though the front if necessary, but if you pulling It's apart to put in the copper finger It's can be done then. Did you remove the anti-alysing filter as well? What have you got your white balance set to? I've been using the floro 4k setting.
Hmm, methinks you are right Glen. Noted for next stage, thought I'd been pretty good but there you go.
No, I left the AA Filter in and WB is just normal at present. I'm after the IR Ha component to see more of the dust so I'll start from there first. I have a 2" Ha filter so that should give me the spectrum spread I want.
Why the floro 4K setting ? That would tend to offset the IR response I thought. But RAW doesn't matter anyway, it ignores that factor. I am not interested in it's daylight performance other than for testing and maybe fun.
EDIT: The cover glass is the AA filter according to Gary's instructions. There is another as part of the IR filter but that is gone, broken at removal.
Glen, Copper has arrived in one piece , big enough !! You should have just chopped off an about right size piece and kept the rest ! Thanks for the generosity.
Not going to bother testing the aluminium version, moving straight into a copper design. It will basically be a straight flat finger as I will trim the internal base plate protrusions maybe leaving a small pillar as a locating support. I will also build a base plate to support the whole unit so there is no strain on the sensor area. I'll photo the build for anyone wanting to see.
I was in the Ob on Friday night till midnight but didn't test the IR mod as all the easy Ha targets ( M8 and Friends) are way down on the western horizon and seeing was not great. Got 105 mins of NGC 253 instead with the 1200D but DSS is being a so&so and trying to only stack one frame.
Brent, wanted you to have plenty of copper for design experimentation.
Re Ha targets, the Orion Neb (M42) is a great modified camera target, and the Horsehead and Flame neb are as well. Best after mid-night right now. Eta Carinae rises high enough by 3am if you want to pull an all-nighter. I agree that this time of year can be abit 'boring' if your chasing good elevation of the major Ha objects.
OK, thanks again.
Yes, waiting for M42 and co but I have no eastern Horizon at all, trees, CBD etc. So it will be a while before I can get to them. Might do an early morning riser instead if I get motivated.
Busy doing cardboard template cutouts to try various configurations. I may leave the two uprights and give the copper a wee bend upwards over it instead using the first one with it's threaded holes to mount the finger. Or slot the finger around the lower one and a small hole for the upper.
OK, thanks again.
Yes, waiting for M42 and co but I have no eastern Horizon at all, trees, CBD etc. So it will be a while before I can get to them. Might do an early morning riser instead if I get motivated.
Busy doing cardboard template cutouts to try various configurations. I may leave the two uprights and give the copper a wee bend upwards over it instead using the first one with it's threaded holes to mount the finger. Or slot the finger around the lower one and a small hole for the upper.
Brent suggest you insulate from the frame if coming straight out, using sheet neoprene or something like that. It's still needs to be earthed to the frame with a wire.
Re M42, It's at 60 degree altitude due north at 3am this week, just past the meridian. If the rain ever goes away I am trying.
mucho surprise after all the hacking when my first one still powered up. It died of unnatural causes later though. Just be careful 
