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  #41  
Old 25-06-2016, 01:00 PM
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wasyoungonce (Brendan)
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Yeah pretty sure I saw those as well...was "littlediode"?. Just be careful, look at sellers history many sell fakes! That link was to UTSource, the units I'm getting.

Note most sellers say these are TSSOP package, where the sony datasheet states they were made in SSOP package. Probably same but nomenclature is important sometimes.
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  #42  
Old 25-06-2016, 01:18 PM
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I just noticed that the link was to UTS, sorry. But I am looking at these ones now...
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  #43  
Old 25-06-2016, 01:44 PM
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ok price currently is $122 but this includes a lot of packages at inflated prices when we just need one or 2. Price if we can obtain individual is $64.

I need to do more work sourcing ea parts instead of some packages but all parts are available....except the CXD1267AN...which we have on the way and have spoken about.
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  #44  
Old 25-06-2016, 02:15 PM
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Good news, I just saved us $5.30
I found a large stash of BC857 (RS part number 761-3587). Part VT3 on Cam85m sheet. No need to order it.

I also have a box with various 0805 resistors and chip capacitors. It probably has all parts we need in this size.
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  #45  
Old 25-06-2016, 02:22 PM
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Welcome news indeed. As said we both have parts on the way and can share. I would like to have enough parts to build 2 PCBs each (at least for myself), though depends upon expensive parts.

I'm trying to register on the Ukrainian forum to ask questions...server is down.

I have doe a few more parts and identified cheaper options in lieu of packages. That said, the cost doesn't faze me. I'm more concerned with the nose piece collar getting done...also cooling. We can do this on the fly though, no need to fuss too much atm as they are "addons" to the main camera.
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  #46  
Old 25-06-2016, 02:36 PM
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The cost of bulk parts saving is really only few $, as you said not really important.

I am looking for the drawings of the nose piece... I have seen them somewhere but the forum threads are very long...

I am also looking to build 2 PCBs. Happy to share everything.

I don't think there is anybody else building this.
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  #47  
Old 25-06-2016, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post
The cost of bulk parts saving is really only few $, as you said not really important.

I am looking for the drawings of the nose piece... I have seen them somewhere but the forum threads are very long...

I am also looking to build 2 PCBs. Happy to share everything.

I don't think there is anybody else building this.
Exactly what I was thinking on some of the bulk parts. Hoping "Faddy's" nose piece adaptor brings backfocus of sensor to 55mm and allows filter fittment! That would be handy.

The only issue I see is case sealing.
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  #48  
Old 26-06-2016, 12:13 AM
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Case sealing = silicone :-)

Also have a look at this for the front adapter. The black part is few $ on ebay and it connects to the scope via DSLR t-adapter.

I am still looking for drawings for faddy's adapter. I am sure I have seen them somewhere. But it is just a ring with a thread inside and a few tapped holes. I am guessing that the thread is the same as the common 2" filters???
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  #49  
Old 26-06-2016, 01:27 AM
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Flange drawings are here (scroll down). To be interpreted tomorrow once I get some sleep

Also check out the peltier here (scroll down)
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  #50  
Old 26-06-2016, 08:07 AM
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Damn you're up late! Appears Astro Club Kiev is off line atm!

Edit:
Are we socketing the Sensor? The only SIL I know of is this from digikey. But, I don't see why we couldn't use one of these. Would need to cut it down and separate the halves so they were SIL headers. Not cheap though. I know the pitch, 1.78mm is fine but the socket depth is ~3.7mm. The sensor legs are 5mm long. Also the socket pins accept .015" to .025" leads. The Sensor leads are .46mm/.018". It is a tad small but will do. I think the digikey socket pin depth is the same.

Last edited by wasyoungonce; 26-06-2016 at 12:57 PM.
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  #51  
Old 27-06-2016, 08:29 PM
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Still plugging away on parts list. Also doing a digikey basket. This is actually an easy way to do it. I've found some errors on parts, like qty 2 C20's on PCB...one is supposed to be R20 (the one top of DD9). Cannot find R9 atm.

Still doing CAD PCB but had to make a few packages like the sensor ICX413AQ. Getting this footprint etc wrong will be a major catastrophe lots of time doing that one. Just checked resistor now doing caps then I add them to the drawing and connect.
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  #52  
Old 27-06-2016, 11:36 PM
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Regarding the sockets, let me summarise:
1. Digikey ones are recommended for Cam84. The CCD should (hopefully) fit in them.
2. The element14 ones are identical to these suggested on CN, apart from being lead free. They have identical dimensions as the digikey ones but would need cutting.
3. Have you seen these? Local, cheap, need cutting. Identical dimensions. Beryllium copper as well.

Now, looking at Faddy's design, I cannot see if he/she socketed the sensor. But we should beware of the height of the sensor as you mentioned that some capacitors were at the max height. Socketing will increase the height by at least 4.2mm. But I suppose we have 10mm height to play with.

Do you have a datasheet with dimensions of the sensor? I could not find it anywhere.
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  #53  
Old 28-06-2016, 09:33 AM
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Hi luka, sorry long rant,

I have a pdf on the sensor (attached) it's not a full data sheet but it does show the package dimensions. The problem with the sensor is that the pins are 1.778mm (.07") pitch on centre (), not the std 2.54mm, the pins are 25.4mm (1.0") across. Not much uses this spacing and I suspect the 1.778mm is a standard of 1.78mm, used in some SIL and DIL packages (not many though). There is an Element14 package here (that is 1.778mm pitch) but it needs to be cut to make into qty 2 SILs (that should be achievable) as it's row pitch is too narrow. RS has nothing in this pin pitch, digikey does (again this needs trimming as its 21 pins long, we need qty 2, 16pin SILs.

The other issue is most SIL/DIL sockets allow for a pin insertion of 3.683mm (.145") maximum depth. The ICX413 sensor pins protrude 5mm below the package body. Thus the IC will insert and bottom the pins in the SIL socket with the body proud of this (not by a lot).

I have found some "single pins" that are soldered into the PCB and many allow for longer IC leg insertion, like this at element14. But again, we are thwarted. The Pin head dia is .055" (1.397mm) which means the sensor pin pitch is too close, they will overlap! There are no single PCB pins that are small enough head diameter to fit, so, back to the SIL.

Its not a big issue atm but it's something we need to be aware of, especially for cooling and sensor orthogonality. I have the sensor package done...just hope its right. I like to print the PCB at original size and check parts fit before committing to the PCB being sent for production but FADDY's gerbers are obviously correct.
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  #54  
Old 28-06-2016, 10:32 PM
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Hi Brendan, thank you for clearing that up. I checked every other dimension several times but completely missed the pitch
So much for staying up so late...

Cutting the Element14 DILs should be manageable. I have done similar things in the past (never with 1.778mm pitch though). Luckily there is enough spare length for a few practice cuts. Possibly even use the soldering iron to get a pin very hot, melt the plastic around it and then pull the pin out. Cutting on that spot should be easier then or even plastic can be melted instead of cut. Actually a hot knife may be the best option depending how brittle the plastic is.

Also, it was probably just a typo but better safe then sorry, you said that we need 2x 16pin SILs. The sensor is actually 2x 17 pins, not 16.



On a different matter, here is a quick calculation of the distance between the sensor and flange:
back of PCB to box = 10mm
box thickness = 3mm
Total = 13mm

We need to subtract the distance between the back of the PCB and the sensor surface:
socket height = 4.2mm (7.2mm but the legs partially go through the PCB)

sensor legs = 5mm
insertion in socket = 3.683mm
difference = 1.317mm, say1.3mm

sensor height (from legs) = 2.6mm

Total back of PCB to sensor surface = 4.2 + 1.3 + 2.6 = 8.1mm

So we have sensor to outside-box-wall-distance of about 13mm - 8.1mm = 5mm roughly.



To this we have to add the flange thickness. The bad news is that Faddy's flange is different than the one I mentioned before (scroll down), the one with the drawings. But I believe Faddy tried to reproduce this in one way or another.

If we guess Faddy's flange of 15mm we get sensor to flange distance of 20mm. A big guess???

I am not sure about your setup but the short distance is good for me as it this gives an option to fit a filter wheel or something else in between my flattener and camera. With my DSLR there is not much space for anything really. Flattener needs 55mm distance to sensor while Canon has 44mm sensor-to-flange distance. The T-ring adapter takes care of the short difference.

With this setup I will have at least 55-20mm = 35mm room to play with. And will likely need extensions...


Now to do some research on the flange design...
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  #55  
Old 29-06-2016, 09:39 AM
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Hi Lucas, that's some good work and timely on spacing. I was just starting to think about this. That tilt-able flange is is a very good idea.

I've finished the digikey parts list...found quite a few changes between the Cam85m and FADDYs version. This will make it a little difficult to PCB CAD draw, I'll have to use FADDYs gerbers to understand the differences. This'll add more time to completing this. I only have one more package to draw, the shielded inductors, 2525 package. As usual, inductor pad sizes on parts like this are not a common sizes across mfgrs.

Yes I made an error with the sensor 32 pins (it's 34)...I even made this error when drawing the CAD package and had to fix it. Damn 32 pins on the brain!
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  #56  
Old 29-06-2016, 03:34 PM
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Damn, there is more than one version of Cam85m out in pdf format. They both neglect to state the +5V generation, except the latest ver appears to have it coming off board. But Faddys has a +5V Dpack regulator on PCB (not on schematic).

Sigh....I'm doing CAD drawing now, I'll make if from the schematic then check against Faddys PCB. I can ten make changes and re-name the schematic to a different version.
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  #57  
Old 29-06-2016, 03:43 PM
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I have seen that. Have you seen post 1556 (by Faddy) in the thread? It shows external 5V input.
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  #58  
Old 29-06-2016, 04:47 PM
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On Faddys post 1541 you can see the PCB, side 2 he has a +5V DPack fixed regulator on the bottom of the board (not in any schematic). I think the sub-board shown in post 1556 shows 2 wires down the bottom the the board.

Urrrrrgggh....Just noticed my 7806A voltage regulator package has pins backwards compared to what it should on PCB...grrrr. I have to fix this.

Referring to the PCB image these bottom leads are +12V and ground. +12V feeds Vin DD10, the 6V regulator we can see this on the PCB image, yet the schematic (dated 14.06.2016) shows 15V2 going to DD10 as Vin. So Faddy decided to simplify and feed it with +12V.

Also noted on the schematic that the PCB is feed with +6V externally which is dropped by a diode to Vusb (+5Vusb). This is not on Faddys PCB. Still have no reference to value of DR4 on his PCB as well. There is a bit of lack of info.

I think it best I draw the schematic as given then I can make changes to suit Faddys PCB. This'll muck me around a bit but its might be a useful exercise in understanding the changes.

Of course the easy way is just use his gerbers...but...that would be too easy.

Edit:

Ahhh just found a newer schematic in post 1446, by grim. I did note is has the same date as the other one that showed external +6V. This schematic looks better, shows the +5V regulator (DD15) and +12V route to DD10. All good then I'll use this. Sanity at last.
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  #59  
Old 30-06-2016, 09:13 AM
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More disaster from UTSource

IC's arrived....nice box, good, antistatic bags, good,.....shame about the rest.

Its a pity. I've had good stuff from them before but lately they appear to have gone to the dogs.
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  #60  
Old 30-06-2016, 10:43 AM
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Is that sticky tape?
Think positively, they could have superglued the chips to the cardboard.

By the way, for one of the orders (at work) we have received a fully populated PCBs packed in... ziplock bags. Just good old ziplock bags that you put your sandwiches in. Miraculously everything survived.
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