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  #21  
Old 28-12-2018, 02:27 PM
DJT (David)
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Hi GlenThere is a huge gap between GSO and the other manufacturers who are all pretty much in same price range, around the 10k plus mark. As I understand it, the complexity is in the mirrors? But the cost ramps up as other materials are used along with better mechanical design.


There are no other non clone manufactures doing 8 inch mirrors from what I can see and that is the sweet spot for a lot of amateurs mounts. CFF has a 10” but that’s still going to cost 10k landed, 3x the cost of the GSO RC10 and would stretch most mounts capacity.


so whilst mechanically the GSO is a bit needy, there are plenty of astrophotographers out there using them successfully. Kudos to GSO for coming up with a way to produce the mirrors so they are affordable and quite good.


Fabiomax posted up a couple of really great images recently and he has the budget RC8 with QSI CCD setup.


Very much looking to see a simple Collimation write up. But I still think dropping $1500 for a decent focuser, t-ring and tak scope is well worth it for the images you can get from these scopes given focal length.
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  #22  
Old 29-12-2018, 03:50 PM
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Paul Haese
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlzburg View Post
Newts are a walk in the park compared to RC's. Though very fiddly and a cause for another couple of greys.
.........
Hmmm, sorry I don't agree with that statement, it is generalised and does not account for fast Newtonians.

RC's are relatively simply due to the symmetrical nature of how errors are shown. Correcting the errors is easy to undertake with the right tools. Collimation becomes simple once you understand what is going on with them. Clearly, with an RC, you need to centre the focuser to the secondary (using Howie Glatter laser), then align the secondary and primary (using a Tak scope). Ken Crawford produced a very instructive video on how to use a Tak scope for collimating this type of scope and I suggest many go and take a look at it. I can generally collimate an RC now within 5-10 minutes. Finally, star testing to tweak collimation on the primary.

A fast Newtonian on the other hand are a much harder beast to deal with. I have owned quite a few Newtonians over the years but all of them except the latest ones were f4.5 and up. Yes those are a walk in the park for collimation and less demanding. f4 and below might as well be in the impossible range. The problem lies with weight, the way the secondary is supported and size of the secondary. Getting the secondary in the correct position to produce a flat coma free field is time consuming and frustrating. The faster you go the harder it gets.

Any mechanical errors in both types of scopes makes things difficult to sort collimation and hold collimation. GSO has produced a functional system if you don't use their focuser. All the rest is rigid and put together well. Certainly from the RC10 and upwards. Yes not an Alluna scope but still something that can produce great results.
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  #23  
Old 29-12-2018, 04:36 PM
glend (Glen)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Haese View Post
.......

GSO has produced a functional system if you don't use their focuser. All the rest is rigid and put together well. Certainly from the RC10 and upwards. Yes not an Alluna scope but still something that can produce great results.
Paul, what focuser would you recommend as a replacement for the stock GSO?
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  #24  
Old 29-12-2018, 06:33 PM
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lazjen (Chris)
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There's a few options - I went with the Moonlite for my RC10 - excellent unit.
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  #25  
Old 29-12-2018, 07:18 PM
Karlzburg (Karl)
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I have a moonlite on mine with a collimation ring.
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  #26  
Old 29-12-2018, 08:28 PM
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Marke (Mark)
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I have rack and pinion Feather touch with motor it can lift a lot of mass and zero slip along with an adjuster plate.
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  #27  
Old 29-12-2018, 09:33 PM
DJT (David)
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Interesting...I heard that CFF purchased 10” GSO mirror sets that they will install in their OTA to help resolve the mechanics issue.There is an add on astromart.




https://astromart.com/classifieds/as...-time-delivery
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  #28  
Old 29-12-2018, 10:41 PM
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When I had a GSO RC10 I used a FLI Atlas focuser. It worked great but was possibly overkill
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  #29  
Old 30-12-2018, 11:30 PM
Wavytone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Haese View Post
A fast Newtonian ... f4 and below might as well be in the impossible range.
I'd agree with that having built a 12.5" f/3.7 and a smaller f/3.5 long ago when I had a workshop and the tools to make a decent secondary cell and spider. Not quite impossible, but certainly damn difficult.

The 12.5" was intended to be a classical Cassegrain - I got as far as figuring a secondary but never finished the scope when I realised how massive the mount would have to be. Its temporary configuration as a very fast altaz newtonian became permanent.

Never again. f/7 - or close to it - is nirvana IMHO for fast reflectors and refractors, apart from lunar and planetary which is where the larger maks from 7" and up have a whole game to themselves.
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  #30  
Old 31-12-2018, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
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Paul, what focuser would you recommend as a replacement for the stock GSO?
There are a number which fit the bill Glen. The Feather Touch is the most affordable and robust but does take up a lot of back focus. I wouldn't use a standard Moonlite, they just don't have the strength to hold heavy loads still. Second on my list is the Atlas, great focuser but costs a fair bit and has a very shallow draw tube which can cause problems for adapter calculation. Then there is the Moonlite Nitecrawler; also a great focuser and has the added feature of rotation. That costs even more but if you need accurate rotation this is the focuser of preference in my opinion. Draw tube length is modest but longer than 10mm. Very happy with this focuser.
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  #31  
Old 31-12-2018, 10:44 AM
DJT (David)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Haese View Post
There are a number which fit the bill Glen. The Feather Touch is the most affordable and robust but does take up a lot of back focus. I wouldn't use a standard Moonlite, they just don't have the strength to hold heavy loads still.
Just on that, I have used an STL6303e with FW8, and an MMOAG plus guide camera for the last 3 years on an 8” and on a 10” RC and it’s never slipped for me. This is the CLS 2.5 version.
All told that’s 2.5kg including filters.
That’s just on the limit quoted by Ron.
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  #32  
Old 31-12-2018, 06:27 PM
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Logieberra (Logan)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glend View Post
Just about all the RC collimation drama threads have to do with the nightmare that are the GSO made small models 6"-10", which are the budget end of all RCs. I have never heard any complaints about Planewave RCs.
Perhaps the write up should be GSO specific.
Good luck.
Add GSO RC 12”, 14” and 16” to that list.
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  #33  
Old 12-01-2019, 01:13 AM
redtail (Kenny)
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cant wait to see the write up.
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  #34  
Old 08-04-2019, 02:33 PM
brenchen
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Hey Karl! I'm feeling so much pain right now with collimating it. How's the write up going? Can't wait to read it
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  #35  
Old 08-04-2019, 02:51 PM
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Slawomir (Suavi)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Haese View Post
There are a number which fit the bill Glen. The Feather Touch is the most affordable and robust but does take up a lot of back focus. I wouldn't use a standard Moonlite, they just don't have the strength to hold heavy loads still. Second on my list is the Atlas, great focuser but costs a fair bit and has a very shallow draw tube which can cause problems for adapter calculation. Then there is the Moonlite Nitecrawler; also a great focuser and has the added feature of rotation. That costs even more but if you need accurate rotation this is the focuser of preference in my opinion. Draw tube length is modest but longer than 10mm. Very happy with this focuser.
A good list with great explanations. I would also add Optec - these focusers seem to be even more robust that FTF, in particular in regards to the way these focusers are motorised, and there are a few options to choose from, from Optec LEO to Gemini.
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  #36  
Old 20-04-2019, 05:07 PM
redtail (Kenny)
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I don't think this write up is ever coming.
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  #37  
Old 21-04-2019, 10:42 PM
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While waiting make sure you have a look at this thread for a very nice and detailed guide to RC8 collimation.
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