#41  
Old 20-02-2010, 02:41 AM
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Davros (Lauren)
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You could try a combo of low profile focuser and adjusting your primary in its cage to achieve focus. Worst case trim the tube. My dob was shortened 35mm for this purpose by the previous owner Dave Waldo. Their should be some archived posts about it. Alternatively put up a new topic asking if others have achieved dslr focus using the same scope as yours.
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  #42  
Old 20-02-2010, 10:07 AM
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Yes Jen, best to try at Snake Valley - there should be enough bits and pieces to see what can be achieved with your scope. A webcam in a low profile 1.25"-->2" adapter (Ken had I I experimented with two years ago) should work and you can get a nice crescent Moon and perhaps Saturn?

Henry, go 2" - always go 2". Perhaps adding a barlow lens might allow focus to be achieved -I cannot quite remember now what it does to achieving focus.
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  #43  
Old 20-02-2010, 10:18 AM
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I have a T adapter I'm happy to sell cheap. I used it on my 350D. As good as brand new (pretty sure it is the EOS T-ring and T-mount all-in-one). I was only looking at it last night, contemplating selling it.

If you're interested Jen, I can try to get it to Eric, to give to you at SV (I cannot attend). Eric is that okay with you? Otherwise, I'll put it up in the IIS Classifieds if you don't need it.

What are they going for at BinTel? (I can't find them on their site).
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  #44  
Old 20-02-2010, 10:37 AM
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kinetic (Steve)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erick View Post
Henry, go 2" - always go 2". Perhaps adding a barlow lens might allow focus to be achieved -I cannot quite remember now what it does to achieving focus.
As Eric says Henry, If at Prime (Or Newtonian to be exact) focus, your
DSLR doesn't focus due to lack of inward travel and all other options
won't work either..ie low profile focuser....and the drastic measure of
doing the tube chop is off the cards, then another option is introducing
some magnification before the camera. IE barlow or Televue Powermate
or even eyepiece projection.

This presents a few bigger problems for you as well. Nothing comes easy
in this hobby eh?

Focus is now a problem due to usually not having enough OUTWARD
travel because the Barlow or Teleview lengthens your effective
focal length.
With only minimal power it should still be able to focus , if not
then an extension tube of 25mm or 50mm will get you back within a
focusable range....BUT...
Your drive needs to track better if you intend to do
any long exposure and your mount needs to be polar aligned.
However some people have obtained fantastic results with hand
guided planetary/ moon stuff with some barlow power added between their
scope and camera/webcam etc.
The moon is a great first target for this as you have lots of brightness
and the webcam will auto adjust to a fast frame rate to minimise your
hand shake with hand guiding....or just letting it drift due to us spinning.
I think some of Mike S' first Jupiter stuff was hand guided, I might be
wrong here. He also did some fantastic stuff hand guiding on the International
Space Station with his DK21 camera (basically a souped up webcam).

Hope this helps.

Steve

Last edited by kinetic; 20-02-2010 at 12:32 PM. Reason: spelling gumby
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  #45  
Old 20-02-2010, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinetic View Post
As Eric says Henry, If at Prime (Or Newtonian to be exact) focus, your
DSLR doesn't focus due to lack of inward travel and all other options
won't work either..ie low profile focuser....and the drastic measure of
doing the tube chop is off the cards, then another option is introducing
some magnification before the camera. IE barlow or Televue Powermate
or even eyepiece projection.

This presents a few bigger problems for you as well. Nothing comes easy
in this hobby eh?

Focus is now a problem due to usually not having enough OUTWARD
travel because the Barlow or Teleview lengthens your effective
focal length.
With only minimal power it should still be able to focus , if not
then an extension tube of 25mm or 50mm will get you back within a
focusable range....BUT...
Your drive needs to track better if you intend to do
any long exposure and your mount needs to be polar aligned.
However some people have obtained fantastic results with hand
guided planetary/ moon stuff with some barlow power added between their
scope and camera/webcam etc.
The moon is a great first target for this as you have lots of brightness
and the webcam will auto adjust to a fast frame rate to minimise your
hand shake with hand guiding....or just letting it drift due to us spinning.
I think some of Mike S' first Jupiter stuff was hand guided, I might be
wrong here. He also did some fantastic stuff hand guiding on the International
Space Station with his DK21 camera (basically a souped up webcam).

Hope this helps.

Steve
Hi Steve and Erec,

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Sounds like it's all too hard. All I wanted to do was put the DSLR into the focuser and take a "snap shot" (one frame) using a shutter speed fast enough not to cause motion blur but still capture a clear image.

I am not interested in stacking or any computer editing other than cropping ans resizing using Paint (Windows).
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  #46  
Old 22-02-2010, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by glenluceskies View Post
I have a T adapter I'm happy to sell cheap. I used it on my 350D. As good as brand new (pretty sure it is the EOS T-ring and T-mount all-in-one). I was only looking at it last night, contemplating selling it.

If you're interested Jen, I can try to get it to Eric, to give to you at SV (I cannot attend). Eric is that okay with you? Otherwise, I'll put it up in the IIS Classifieds if you don't need it.

What are they going for at BinTel? (I can't find them on their site).
Ok sounds great to me thanks Glen, i will wait for the Snake Valley Camp and suss it all out. If all goes well i can give the money to Eric we have done some wheelin and dealing together already so yeah Eric wont mind at all (will ya Eric)
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  #47  
Old 22-02-2010, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chillie View Post
Hi Steve and Erec,

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Sounds like it's all too hard. All I wanted to do was put the DSLR into the focuser and take a "snap shot" (one frame) using a shutter speed fast enough not to cause motion blur but still capture a clear image.

I am not interested in stacking or any computer editing other than cropping ans resizing using Paint (Windows).
lol Chillie yeah it sounds complicated dosnt it Good luck with yours mate if you have any success let me know

Maybe i should just give mine to someone and close my eyes and ears and say "make this work"
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  #48  
Old 22-02-2010, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jen View Post
Ok sounds great to me thanks Glen, i will wait for the Snake Valley Camp and suss it all out. If all goes well i can give the money to Eric we have done some wheelin and dealing together already so yeah Eric wont mind at all (will ya Eric)
I'll just take my middle-man cut!
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  #49  
Old 22-02-2010, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chillie View Post
Hi Steve and Erec,

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Sounds like it's all too hard. All I wanted to do was put the DSLR into the focuser and take a "snap shot" (one frame) using a shutter speed fast enough not to cause motion blur but still capture a clear image.

I am not interested in stacking or any computer editing other than cropping ans resizing using Paint (Windows).
In that case, you need to shoot the Moon since it is bright enough for a short exposure shot that won't be blurred by the earth's rotation. Yes, if the camera won't reach focus in the focusser, poke it into a 2" barlow and see what happens!
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  #50  
Old 22-02-2010, 04:03 PM
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I'll just take my middle-man cut!
hey
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  #51  
Old 22-02-2010, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erick View Post
In that case, you need to shoot the Moon since it is bright enough for a short exposure shot that won't be blurred by the earth's rotation. Yes, if the camera won't reach focus in the focusser, poke it into a 2" barlow and see what happens!
Thanks Erec.

If the moon is all I can shoot using the snap shot approach (remember I only have a Dob), I'll keep my money and forget about astrophotography.

All the best with your astrophotography Jen. I wish you well in your endeavours.
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  #52  
Old 26-02-2010, 10:50 AM
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OK, I have this now, Jen - thanks Stephen. I'll bring it to camp. You can now poke your camera at prime focus into a 2" focusser. That's a good start!

eric

Quote:
Originally Posted by glenluceskies View Post
I have a T adapter I'm happy to sell cheap. I used it on my 350D. As good as brand new (pretty sure it is the EOS T-ring and T-mount all-in-one). I was only looking at it last night, contemplating selling it.

If you're interested Jen, I can try to get it to Eric, to give to you at SV (I cannot attend). Eric is that okay with you? Otherwise, I'll put it up in the IIS Classifieds if you don't need it.

What are they going for at BinTel? (I can't find them on their site).
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  #53  
Old 27-02-2010, 02:20 PM
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OK, I have this now, Jen - thanks Stephen. I'll bring it to camp. You can now poke your camera at prime focus into a 2" focusser. That's a good start!

eric
Awsome thanks Eric & Stephen i will see you in two weeks woohoo i cant wait
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  #54  
Old 27-02-2010, 10:13 PM
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Hi Jen, I also had the inward focus problem on my 200mm f6 and the super low profile crayford fixed that.
Also Jen If your gonna start taking pics the one thing I highly recomend is to get yorself is a remote switch for opetating the camera.Its just a little switch on a wire so you don't ruin your shots by pressing the button on the actual camera. The Canon RS60E3 is ideal. http://www.cameraworld.com.au/Canon_.../canrs60e3.htm cheaper here http://www.shopbot.com.au/pp-canon-r...6-1778727.html
BTW, noticed your new avatar and couldn't help wondering if you have done something different with your hair or using and new brand of make up?

Cheers Daniel.

Last edited by danielsun; 27-02-2010 at 10:52 PM.
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  #55  
Old 28-02-2010, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jen View Post
Gday
I was just wondering what the piece is called that you use to attach the camera to the scope. Where can i get one from and how much are they Im scared to order on line as i have no idea what im asking for (yet)



Oh its a canon 500D if that helps
Hi Jen, wondering your scope is skywatcher and would like to know what ind of focuser (Standard Crayford or RP). My 12" DOB has a standard crayford focuser and can swap out a 1.25 and 2" eyepiece adaptor.

My 1.25" adaptor can unscrew to expose a "T" Thread and can fit a "T" to EOS Adaptor directly to it giving me an extra 1" of extra focuser travel. I purchace a "T" to EOS Adaptor - https://www.bintelshop.com.au/Product.aspx?ID=5551 which is all I need for the Skywatcher 1.25" attachment.
I also bought 2" "T" adaptor - https://www.bintelshop.com.au/Product.aspx?ID=7403 which i use with my 2" 3 x Barlow.

I can't take any photos of my stuff as the camera I have is the only one. Can't take a phot of the itself .

(ADDED) Seeing it is late I decided to add some images knowing few people are watching this late.

In order is the sequence of placing my EOS adaptor to my SW Crayforf focuser. Could be handy for others if you do not have this type of focuser.
  1. Standard 1.25" SW adaptor for the crayford
  2. Unscrew the 1.25" barrel
  3. The "T" Thread is exposed (Outer Thread)
  4. Screw on the EOS to "T" Adaptor
  5. Complete assembly
This method gave me a full 1 1/2" of extra focuser travel inwards which I needed as for the moon shot I have taken even with this configuration I only have about 1mm of inward focuser travel left.

You may expereince the same issue as me with the standard Crayford Focuser. The 2" - "T" adaptor (not shown) is used for Barlow use.
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Last edited by mswhin63; 28-02-2010 at 01:41 AM.
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  #56  
Old 01-03-2010, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielsun View Post
Hi Jen, I also had the inward focus problem on my 200mm f6 and the super low profile crayford fixed that.
Also Jen If your gonna start taking pics the one thing I highly recomend is to get yorself is a remote switch for opetating the camera.Its just a little switch on a wire so you don't ruin your shots by pressing the button on the actual camera. The Canon RS60E3 is ideal. http://www.cameraworld.com.au/Canon_.../canrs60e3.htm cheaper here http://www.shopbot.com.au/pp-canon-r...6-1778727.html
BTW, noticed your new avatar and couldn't help wondering if you have done something different with your hair or using and new brand of make up?

Cheers Daniel.
lol Daniel u like my new hair do hey LOL

Thanks for the tip i will take more notice of your set up at Ballarat
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  #57  
Old 01-03-2010, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mswhin63 View Post
Hi Jen, wondering your scope is skywatcher and would like to know what ind of focuser (Standard Crayford or RP). My 12" DOB has a standard crayford focuser and can swap out a 1.25 and 2" eyepiece adaptor.

My 1.25" adaptor can unscrew to expose a "T" Thread and can fit a "T" to EOS Adaptor directly to it giving me an extra 1" of extra focuser travel. I purchace a "T" to EOS Adaptor - https://www.bintelshop.com.au/Product.aspx?ID=5551 which is all I need for the Skywatcher 1.25" attachment.
I also bought 2" "T" adaptor - https://www.bintelshop.com.au/Product.aspx?ID=7403 which i use with my 2" 3 x Barlow.

I can't take any photos of my stuff as the camera I have is the only one. Can't take a phot of the itself .

(ADDED) Seeing it is late I decided to add some images knowing few people are watching this late.


In order is the sequence of placing my EOS adaptor to my SW Crayforf focuser. Could be handy for others if you do not have this type of focuser.
  1. Standard 1.25" SW adaptor for the crayford
  2. Unscrew the 1.25" barrel
  3. The "T" Thread is exposed (Outer Thread)
  4. Screw on the EOS to "T" Adaptor
  5. Complete assembly
This method gave me a full 1 1/2" of extra focuser travel inwards which I needed as for the moon shot I have taken even with this configuration I only have about 1mm of inward focuser travel left.

You may expereince the same issue as me with the standard Crayford Focuser. The 2" - "T" adaptor (not shown) is used for Barlow use.
thanks Martin so there is hope for me yet, before i do the last option and chop the scope up
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  #58  
Old 04-03-2010, 02:29 PM
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Well to sort of "future-proof" your purchase/investment - if you get the 2" right off day one, then when you step up to the larger focusers diameter or 2" astro-imaging accessories, you do not need to replace it with another one (if you had purchased a 1.25" one to start with in the first place)!

HTH

Cheers
Bill

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Originally Posted by Chillie View Post
Anyone want to comment on this and answer my questions?

I'm sure the answers would benefit others as well as me.
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  #59  
Old 04-03-2010, 09:57 PM
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thanks Bill
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  #60  
Old 04-03-2010, 11:22 PM
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Just my two cents.......to get focus I unscrewed the lens part of my 2x barlow and screwed it into the T-adaptor mount.
Worked for me
No need to cut the tube!
I just received my moonlight focuser and it has a much lower profile than the old skywatcher one. I'm yet to try it out though ! ( without the barlow on the camera)
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