#201  
Old 11-09-2016, 09:39 AM
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wasyoungonce (Brendan)
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Originally Posted by luka View Post
From the Ukrainian forums, it looks like the camera will work with voltages over 7V. Regulating 7V will definitely produce less heat than trying to drop down 12V.

Either we find TEC that works between 7V and 12V or we could have a separate power for TEC? 12V or more depending on the TEC. It would require an extra pin...

Ahhh got it ...I was confused about all this. Makes sense as it'll drop pdip across regulators as well.

Brendan
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  #202  
Old 16-09-2016, 10:31 AM
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Ok a little of topic but something we may need for this project is the ability to solder and de-solder SOP/SIL/QFP smd ICs. Since these are quite small and real-estate for these is at a premium the pcb is packed closely...I picked up a used Military Royel RE900-4 station.

Its a little rough but my older Royel irons (and de-solder iron) are exact matches for use on this unit and I know these units, I used to use them and repair them. I had my own de-solder system but this is far better as well as twin transformers/control PCBs for duel concurrent iron use. But it gets better I have fittings to plug straight into the vac and pressure ports and I know the rotary vane pump on this unit is a ripper.

But there's more...it has resistance soldering facility. I need a handpiece (can make my own) but basically this uses around 4V (variable) at high current (variable) to basically heat by current flow or spot weld. This is a very valuable feature not used much by techs...costs too much. Damn nice unit indeed and will come in handy.

Also looking at getting some Hakko 950 soldering tweezers for my Hakko 936, mainly for SMD IC removal. It appears the Ukrainians had to remove and change some ICs and a heat gun is a poor tool for such a tightly packed PCB. But, hakko 950 hand pieces are expensive...I found Aoyue T001 knockoffs for around $35 which I can make fit my 936 station (actually my 936 station is a home made knockoff with exact copy PCBs and uprated 75Va transformer) I also have proper Hakko 907 irons as well as clones (on that note I found a place selling cheap clone 907 irons with exact specs as the hakko units). Also the Aoyue 950 handpiece has much cheaper tips for QFP, and other smd packages. Hakko tips cost ~ $100.

A lot of fiddling but it'll be worth it. I hope
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  #203  
Old 16-09-2016, 10:51 PM
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That is some nice gear. I am sure it will come handy. Nothing so advanced here.

I also have some news. I got inspired and tried debayering my D40 sensor. Well, didn't quite get to debayering yet. I only got as far as the glass removal and I already damaging something by accident. I bumped the camera/sensor while trying to put the sensor back in for testing and now the D40 does not even power up any more (I have tried reseating all the connectors multiple times). I am not even sure what is damaged...

Hopefully the experience will be very useful for everybody, here are my notes regarding the glass removal:
  • I have a feeling that glass removal and debayering may be easier while the sensor is still in the carrier.
  • I used a heatgun (858D clone from ebay) to heat the glass and separate it from the mounting.
  • The choice of the temperature and the heating time is critical. While places like this suggest heating only for a few seconds, I needed to heat for over 10s at the time to get any result. Probably even as close as 30s!!! It could be because they used a butane torch which is hotter?
  • Temperature... Eventually I settled to 450 degrees C which is the maximum my heater will do. After doing lots of short tests I believe that hotter is better. We want to quickly heat up the glass so it expands and the glue cracks before heating up the surroundings. The faster this happens the better (up to a limit of course).
  • I noticed that when using over 350 degrees C the glass gets cloudy but this just wipes off. I am not sure if some coating gets burned off at this temperature?
  • Heating works the best when started on corners. After a little while the glue will change colour indicating that it separated. It then becomes easy to "push" and expand the separated section with heat.
  • Working in small sections is the best and sensor MUST be let to cool down to ambient in between.
  • Patience, patience, patience. Some sensors may be easier to remove than the others.

MOST IMPORTANTLY:
  • The glass is surrounded by glue on all sides. This must be cut with a sharp blade. It will not be separated by heat. This glue will hold the sensor in the carrier even when all bond under the glass has been broken. I did not take any photos but the glue is clearly visible on sides.
  • When cut with a blade the glue on sides will make a white/yellowish powder. Blow the powder off and keep cutting. You can stop cutting when there is no more powder being created, i.e. when you went through all the glue.
  • Use a magnifying glass/lamp. Make sure all the glue on sides is gone before attempting to heat up the sensor.
  • The blade may not follow the sides of the glass. USE a magnifier to check!!!
  • I had a quick go at a corner from D70 glass and it seemed to unglue much, much quicker/easier than D40. Unfortunately my D70 body is broken so I decided to proceed with the functional D40 so I could monitor the debayering.

Anyway, that is the progress... or the lack of it.

I am not sure if I accidentally broke the body or the sensor electronics, the sensor is likely still OK... I hope. I will try debayering it once I get a bit more time but I cannot test it as the D40 does not power up any more. So I am scouting ebay for a cheap D40 body or D40 sensor.
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  #204  
Old 17-09-2016, 12:15 AM
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Quick update, I found a broken solder joint inside the D40, probably from when I "bumped" the camera. It is partially working now (the back LCD is dead) but it refuses to take photos.
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  #205  
Old 17-09-2016, 08:22 AM
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wasyoungonce (Brendan)
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Well done Luka....I only have a D70 and D70s you can scrounge parts from. If I had a D40 I'd send you the rear LCD. The LCD may just be a ribbon flex?

I'm guessing you removed the glass with the sensors still on their carriers?

You're braver than me removing the cover glass...yet when we get this camera running...that's what I will be doing!
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  #206  
Old 17-09-2016, 02:38 PM
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I am sure that all of us will have a go at debayering at some stage. I just thought to try it out while I had a working system (D40 + sensor) which would let me test the progress. And I also acquired a set of NB filters and I wanted to play with them and a mono D40

But I did not have much success really, the D40 focuses (in viewfinder) but refuses to take photos which may indicate that the sensor, or more likely its supporting electronics or ribbon, is broken. Nothing obvious like the crack on the body that I fixed.

Removal of glass with sensors on carriers is much easier. I had to apply a fair amount of force to cut through the glue on the side. Having a sensor sitting on pins would not be the best idea for this. I suppose using less force would work as well but it would take longer.

I am not sure what to do next... I could debayer this D40 sensor but without any means to test it. I do not fancy doing it "blind". And my D70 does not work so there is no advantage trying to do it on the D70 sensor. Hmm
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  #207  
Old 19-09-2016, 07:15 PM
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Annnd just to finish off the post on the Royel soldering station......It works perfectly. Minor clean up, had to re-configure my iron pin config to suit the Royel (they are Royel irons but were on Adcola stations...I think this is how Royelston started), but that's a minor issue as I had changed them to 5 pin DIN......as everyone did with these systems.

Just some old caps to replace, but everything is "A OK". Funny thing about Royel...they were one of the few "MIL Spec" systems back in the mid 80's. Damn nice specs, way over engineered and a joy to use.

Mannn that Vac pump is way over spec'd as well as the resistance txfmr. The station is surprisingly goo condition. Just a few old electro's to replace....not that it needs it.

Yes my old "ad Hoc" Adcola with attached vac pump system worked but hey why dine on crab when you can have Lobster!

Keen to try the resistance tweezers!
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  #208  
Old 20-09-2016, 06:48 PM
Gary47 (Gary)
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Filter information

I got this link from Astronomik in reply to a query about filter availability.

http://www.astronomik.com/en/neue-pr...1-l-2-l-3.html.

Can you please advise which filter you prefer for your set up?

Regards,
Gary
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  #209  
Old 21-09-2016, 12:11 PM
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Gary that really looks smick! I guess in my case I'd go to the L3, 400~690nm but I'm no expert in this...far from it in fact.

Kinda...I'll have what he's having...in this case what you are both having.

I got one of the TECs....40mm Sq. Was supposed to be 30mm Sq. Grrr

Back is playing up atm....will be down doe a day of so and no idea if what I'm typing is correct...on some nice meds!
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  #210  
Old 21-09-2016, 05:39 PM
Gary47 (Gary)
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Filters,

Thanks Brendan,
I'll file that one away for when we order.
That's a formidable looking bit of gear, makes my little Royel soldering set look pretty humble. Do you have to open it and unscrew the glass jars to remove solder or is there an external solder trap?
Watch those meds, its all good fun at the time but the after effects, oh dear.
Regards,
Gary
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  #211  
Old 21-09-2016, 06:53 PM
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wasyoungonce (Brendan)
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Hi Gary...the iron has a solder trap, filter etc in the handle as well. A bit of overkill but I guess they don't want foreign muck in the pump. The Glass jars also have filters!

Meds don't work except make me ...not me!
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Old 22-09-2016, 10:35 PM
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That looks really, really nice Gary

Regarding the luminance filters, I am not sure. I have ED80 + flattener ATM and I used it with Baader UV/IR-cut filter in the past, until I dropped the filter and smashed it . That worked well to remove bloated stars.
The Baader UV/IR-cut seems to have the same spectral response in IR as the Astronomik L2 but it is somewhere in between the L2 and L3 filters in the UV range.

I am tempted to say L2 but I will post a question on this forum regarding my setup. Hopefully one of the more knowledgable people will be able to give advice (and could probably also help you with your decision).

Brendan, I hope you get better soon. Back pain here as well but nothing very serious.
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  #213  
Old 23-09-2016, 07:04 PM
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Sorry gents in hospital last few days, still here. Turns out back pain was a cyst on kidney that burst and had kidney bleeds. Was in bookooo abdominal pain thus then thought appendix (pain was on RH side only) Well funny thing....I said to my wife " it'll be ok I'll see how I am in the morning"....famous last words!

I hate hospital food!

Should be out in a few days
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Old 23-09-2016, 09:16 PM
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If I was any closer I would bring you a pizza. But you will probably be out before I traverse the Nullarbor. According to IIS you are only 2,869km away

All my best wishes for a quick recovery!!!
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Old 24-09-2016, 04:17 PM
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Thanks Luka will be out tomorrow...gone as fast as it came on....
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Old 25-09-2016, 09:57 AM
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Get well card

Hope you are out soon, you are right about hospital food, its a plot to deter you from using the health system.
I just had my gall bladder out because there were growing cysts, panic time and then after it was all over they told me that the cysts turned out to be cholesterol and were benign. I don't know whether to be happy or annoyed++.
Still tender and unsteady as a result.

There is no need to worry about filter Luca, I just thought that if we purchase the filters in one lot we will save on postage (about 11 euro quoted) but we don't need them until we are ready for final assembly. Astronomik advise that they have them in stock.
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  #217  
Old 26-09-2016, 07:40 AM
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Thanks Gents

yes I am still...not 100% yet. How do I know....I looked at a half consumed cab sav bottle last night and felt sick to the stomach! Definitely not well indeed!

I'll be up an about soon. I know how you feel Gary!

Watching the Ukrainian site...they appear to have ironed out most issues and indeed most issues appear to be soldering! Also noted the issue with the differing ATMEGA328! As far as I'm concerned the PCB is pretty much done really the only change was increasing C45 to anything above 10uF ceramic. Thus this needs a 1206 package and PCB change. I'll do this now on our drawings.

I have one of the TECs...unfortunately I ordered one 40mm SQ and another 30mm SQ. The 40mm one arrived. II think its too big but will play with it soon. I really wanted to compared differing Power dissipation with the same size TECs.
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  #218  
Old 27-09-2016, 03:51 AM
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So, this Friday my camera saw starlight for the first time
I am quite pleased with the final result, but I know it can be even better because subframes are not so clean. There are some noise and interference patterns visible in them, but thankfully they calibrate fine.

Cooling is working fine but I am not entirely happy about delta T, camera can achieve "only" 30C below ambient temperature. On the plus side is that it takes only 1.7A on 12V supply

Anyway, full resolution image of the M33 galaxy is here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../M33_cam84.jpg

Image is processed in Pixinsight. There is no noise reduction applied to the image.

SW ED80 with SW 0.8 FF/FR
cam84 (round board)
Exposure 6x600s, 4x900s, sensor temperature -10C
Belt modified NEQ6 mount

There is a noticeable lack of Ha regions, it seems that cheap Chinese UVIR block from ebay that I used as a optical window is completely cutting that wavelengths...
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Old 27-09-2016, 07:06 AM
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Flip that's brilliant. These sensors really do have potential! Well done indeed.

Brendan
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  #220  
Old 27-09-2016, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flolic View Post
.... There is a noticeable lack of Ha regions, it seems that cheap Chinese UVIR block from ebay that I used as a optical window is completely cutting that wavelengths...

Filip,
Which UVIRCUT did you use?
I am using Rocolax (from ebay), according to graph supplied by manufacturer, it is supposed to pass Halpha.
Gary Honis also sort of claims this filter is OK...
However, I am not totally convinced this is the case, I couldn't see much difference between photos taken with modified 450D+filter and my standard 60D without filter.

However, it seems Rocolax filter is beneficial when used in combination with 60D on my Canon 400 f2.8L at full aperture - stars are not bloated, but with 450D the effect is somewhat visible.

Last edited by bojan; 27-09-2016 at 06:55 PM.
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