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  #21  
Old 22-08-2013, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by allan gould View Post
The 683WSG8 uses 1 1/4 " filters. I use the 583wsg on both my 10" and 5" scopes. Works brilliantly with both of them with never a worry.
do you use a reducer on the 10"
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  #22  
Old 22-08-2013, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Haese View Post
You get what you pay for David. I have been using QSI gear for as long as they have been released. Great camera's low noise. Not as good as say the more expensive cameras, but solid and dependable. I don't know about the other camera, but you have seen my images taken with it. The extra filters in the 8 filter wheel is great.

QSI all the way.
Paul, I am very aware of that but there must be some happy medium somewhere. While the QSI looks, sounds and probably feels intoxicating to own my budget may not go that far. the other thing is getting the time to use it. I bought a qhy10 and had it for nearly 3 years - it was still new in the box when I sold it (yeah I am stupid)

now looking into it there are the Atik range of cameras as well - and I suppose there are pro's and cons for them as well. then there is FLI and Apogee....

I would really like to find something that I can directly compare the whole range I am looking at, spread sheet, and images of the same object through a variety of scopes and then have the service reliability and value for money rating. be like buying a fridge or washing machine
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  #23  
Old 22-08-2013, 09:02 PM
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Sorry Dave, you'll have to do the spreadsheet.
Pick your sensor then pick the camera quality.

I dumped the 8300 sensor as I wanted well depth which the 8300 don't have. I didn't like the star colour I was getting. This 11002 has mucho well depth, great star colour but the sensor is so big, it sees all so I now need another scope with more focal length to shoot small target like M20

Here's a shot from it through my tak. It see's lots of sky.
Attached Thumbnails
Click for full-size image (M8-M20-HaLRGB-big.jpg)
197.1 KB77 views
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  #24  
Old 22-08-2013, 09:09 PM
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If it took you 3 years not to use a one shot colour, why buy a mono with filters?
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  #25  
Old 22-08-2013, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h0ughy View Post
do you use a reducer on the 10"
Sometimes, but the field is flat either with or without f6.3 reducer. Any slight vignetting removed by flats.
Allan
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  #26  
Old 22-08-2013, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Tandum View Post
Sorry Dave, you'll have to do the spreadsheet.
Pick your sensor then pick the camera quality.

I dumped the 8300 sensor as I wanted well depth which the 8300 don't have. I didn't like the star colour I was getting. This 11002 has mucho well depth, great star colour but the sensor is so big, it sees all so I now need another scope with more focal length to shoot small target like M20

Here's a shot from it through my tak. It see's lots of sky.
yeah thats a lot of real estate?
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  #27  
Old 22-08-2013, 09:25 PM
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If it took you 3 years not to use a one shot colour, why buy a mono with filters?
its taken me since 2006 to step this way

a mono with filters will hopefully help get shots through the light pollution here at home
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  #28  
Old 22-08-2013, 09:33 PM
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Robin, which camera do you have?
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  #29  
Old 22-08-2013, 09:43 PM
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Atik 11002. But I'm price driven. I lined up the qhy11 with theo, same sensor, better cooling, but bought this 2nd hand for $1K less. Atik's are northern cameras, single stage cooling which means -10C in summer, -20C if your lucky in winter and lots of different temp cal files.

Get a camera with real cooling so you can do -20 whatever all year round.

I've since read that qhy11 has firmware issues in the camera. Apparently it exposes for 300 seconds but actually only opens the electronic shutter, in the sensor, for half that time. Nothing like QHY quality control

Last edited by Tandum; 22-08-2013 at 10:02 PM.
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  #30  
Old 22-08-2013, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by h0ughy View Post
its taken me since 2006 to step this way

a mono with filters will hopefully help get shots through the light pollution here at home
Narrow band from home is the way Dave. Ha and S2 when the moon is up is fine and then the O3 with no moon. Works for me. Got 3 Astrofest trophies to prove it

RGB from light polutionville is pointless. That's dark sky stuff.
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  #31  
Old 22-08-2013, 10:31 PM
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Narrow band from home is the way Dave. Ha and S2 when the moon is up is fine and then the O3 with no moon. Works for me. Got 3 Astrofest trophies to prove it

RGB from light polutionville is pointless. That's dark sky stuff.
point taken Robin. though every way I look at it I don't think I can squeeze my way to a 11002 with my available funds. I would love to though
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  #32  
Old 23-08-2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h0ughy View Post
point taken Robin. though every way I look at it I don't think I can squeeze my way to a 11002 with my available funds. I would love to though
The Moravian 11002 is at a rather respectable price of $5799 at astroshop - with filter wheel.

My only concern with the 11002 chip is the reports of very poor HA sensitivity, and general lack of sensitivity compared to other chips on the market.

That being said - i can tell the difference, very easily, between a shot taken on an 8300 and a 11002. The 11002 chip has much better dynamic range which seems to give it more depth and looks much more pleasing (to me).

Im in the "saving" boat to replace my KAF8300 (which im not a huge fan of) and the 11002 is on my list, along with the KAI4033(?) and Sony chips.
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  #33  
Old 23-08-2013, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tandum View Post
Atik 11002. But I'm price driven. I lined up the qhy11 with theo, same sensor, better cooling, but bought this 2nd hand for $1K less. Atik's are northern cameras, single stage cooling which means -10C in summer, -20C if your lucky in winter and lots of different temp cal files.

Get a camera with real cooling so you can do -20 whatever all year round.

I've since read that qhy11 has firmware issues in the camera. Apparently it exposes for 300 seconds but actually only opens the electronic shutter, in the sensor, for half that time. Nothing like QHY quality control
Robin,

'i just went to the atik site and got this - they say they have a 2 stage cooler - granted not as good as the morovian or QSI?

Sensor Type: CCD - Kodak KAI 11002
Sensor size: 37.25mm x 25.70mm
Horizontal Resolution: 4008 pixels
Vertical Resolution: 2672 pixels
Pixel Size: 9 M x 9 M
ADC: 16 bit
Readout Noise: 13 e- RMS typical value
Dark current: 0.03 electrons per sec at -20 degrees
Well depth: 60,000 electrons
Anti blooming: >1000x
Quantum Efficiency: 50%
Linearity: R squared test equal to 1
Interface: USB 2.0 High Speed
Power: 12v DC
Maximum Exposure Length: Unlimited
Minimum Exposure Length: 1/1000 s
Guide Port: ST-4 compatible
Cooling: Two stage Peltier with ΔT=-38C, with optional water assist Full temperature regulation.
Weight: 990g
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  #34  
Old 23-08-2013, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by h0ughy View Post
Robin,

'i just went to the atik site and got this - they say they have a 2 stage cooler
I think what they meant to say is
Cooling: Two stage, Peltier and water assist.

And I'm not plugging it into the tap
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  #35  
Old 23-08-2013, 02:11 PM
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I wish the camera fairy could grant me a wish or two
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  #36  
Old 24-08-2013, 08:16 AM
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David.
Think along these lines. You have bought modded DSLRS and OSC cameras but they just dont cut it for you in the long run. If you get the QSI683WSG then there will be no need for messing with the alturnatives. That camera will last and do all that you require. If you want to use it with your 11" and hyperstar then the 8 slot is not viable due to the larger footprint, but the 5 slot is.
Ive never had a problem with the camera and the SWO ASI120MM will just scew into the top of the camera and is parfocal with the main camera. It was a no brainer for me.
Allan
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  #37  
Old 25-08-2013, 06:27 AM
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I'm going to stop (with this post) pointing towards the G2-8300 camera, but will for the final time say that it is very good value for money. It has deep 2 stage cooling and an inbuilt wheel. I can run at -20 all year with no problem. I have not tried -25 but it might do it. Probably 1.25" filters would work fine with flats. I doubt there is much difference here between the QSI regarding filters, and probably not too much that would let a person say that a particular shot was taken with the QSI or the Moravian. A bit like wine tasting I say; the power of suggestion is always great. All of the photos I have put a link to earlier in this thread were taken in bad light pollution. Are they as good as a dark site. Of course not, but they were fun and continue to be so, if not a little frustrating. All were taken with a Hutech IDAS LP in front of Astrononmik filters. Naturally a larger pixel camera will cost more and have greater well depth.

Peter
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  #38  
Old 26-08-2013, 12:02 PM
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so you are using 1.25" filters or 2"
1.25" David.
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  #39  
Old 26-08-2013, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by h0ughy View Post
Paul, I am very aware of that but there must be some happy medium somewhere. While the QSI looks, sounds and probably feels intoxicating to own my budget may not go that far. the other thing is getting the time to use it. I bought a qhy10 and had it for nearly 3 years - it was still new in the box when I sold it (yeah I am stupid)

now looking into it there are the Atik range of cameras as well - and I suppose there are pro's and cons for them as well. then there is FLI and Apogee....

I would really like to find something that I can directly compare the whole range I am looking at, spread sheet, and images of the same object through a variety of scopes and then have the service reliability and value for money rating. be like buying a fridge or washing machine

Look everything is budget driven. Sometimes it just won't stretch. My experience with the QSI and KAF8300 sensor has been great with wide field work. I am not sure how it would go with f2 but the size of the camera is probably going to mean more to you anyway. Its a tough journey to find the camera you really need.
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  #40  
Old 26-08-2013, 12:14 PM
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Look everything is budget driven. Sometimes it just won't stretch. My experience with the QSI and KAF8300 sensor has been great with wide field work. I am not sure how it would go with f2 but the size of the camera is probably going to mean more to you anyway. Its a tough journey to find the camera you really need.
wont be goiing to f2 with this camera - will be for the refractors and sct
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