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Old 14-04-2014, 11:34 AM
Shooting_Star (Romina)
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Shooting lunar eclipse

Hi folks,

Just wondering if anyone has any tips on shooting the total eclipse tomorrow evening?

I've shot the moon before, usually with settings around ISO100 and f/11 for 1/125sec at 300mm. Would these settings be good for shooting totality?

Also, I recently got a Tokina 11-16mm and am wondering what are some good settings for landscape shots? I've not had the chance to try it out for astrophotos yet, so tomorrow would be my first attempt!

Any thoughts would be appreciated

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Old 14-04-2014, 11:49 AM
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mithrandir (Andrew)
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Hi Romina,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shooting_Star View Post
Hi folks,

Just wondering if anyone has any tips on shooting the total eclipse tomorrow evening?

I've shot the moon before, usually with settings around ISO100 and f/11 for 1/125sec at 300mm. Would these settings be good for shooting totality?
Some research by a member of another group found that there are something like 9 f stops difference between the full moon and the totally eclipsed moon.
Quote:
Also, I recently got a Tokina 11-16mm and am wondering what are some good settings for landscape shots? I've not had the chance to try it out for astrophotos yet, so tomorrow would be my first attempt!

Any thoughts would be appreciated
If you mean daytime landscapes it behaves like any other wide angle lens. It is fast enough to hand hold at fairly low light levels.

After dark at 11mm you can shoot the sky for up to about 45sec without noticeable star trailing. At 16mm you'd do better to stick to 30sec.

If you were thinking of using the Tokina for part of the eclipse, the moon will make up a very small part of the image.
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Old 14-04-2014, 12:02 PM
Shooting_Star (Romina)
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Hi Andrew,

Thanks for your response.

I just read an article in Phil Hart's newsletter that suggested f/4 and a higher ISO. I guess that's close to 9 stops ... I didn't really think about the difference in brightness compared to a normal full moon.

I meant nightscapes, but I can see how the moon would look really small in a wide-angle shot. I took a photo of a bird the other day, forgetting I had the wide-angle on my camera ... needless to say, you couldn't tell there was a bird there!

Thanks for the suggested settings for night shots. Definitely want to try to shoot some stars tomorrow, as well. Might stick with the tele-macro for the eclipse and then switch to the Tokina for some stars. I must say I'm excited at the prospect of taking star shots for longer than 16sec!

Many thanks,
Romina.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mithrandir View Post
Hi Romina,
Some research by a member of another group found that there are something like 9 f stops difference between the full moon and the totally eclipsed moon.
If you mean daytime landscapes it behaves like any other wide angle lens. It is fast enough to hand hold at fairly low light levels.

After dark at 11mm you can shoot the sky for up to about 45sec without noticeable star trailing. At 16mm you'd do better to stick to 30sec.

If you were thinking of using the Tokina for part of the eclipse, the moon will make up a very small part of the image.
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Old 14-04-2014, 01:05 PM
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acarleton (Aidan)
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#1 tip for shooting the eclipse tomorrow from Sydney, through the use of divine intervention or some mystical force, clear the skies ...
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