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Old 10-04-2008, 11:38 PM
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EzyStyles (Eric)

EzyStyles is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 3,208
Originally Posted by davewaldo View Post
Hi Eric, I don't have a lot of experience with Astro imaging, but I have loads of experience with photoshop and commercial photography.

Once you get the hang of shooting RAW you will wonder how you did without it. Fred is correct when he mentioned that RAW files apply none of the colour balance info to the file. This means making colour balance chnges to the raw in post is just as good as shooting with the corrrect balance, not one bit of difference.

You also mention that you think your files shouldn't need such large amounts of colour correction. You'd be suprised how much is often needed in everyday photography sometimes when strange light sources are used, so even large changes shouldn't have an adverse effect.

I would recomend setting a Kelvin white balance which gets you close, then do the rest in post. When you find good settings for the adjustment, these could be saved and applyied to everything.

This thread has reminded me of Tiger Woods career (or what I've heard of it). First he was awesome, won loads of tournments. Then he decided he could be better if he completely re-worked his swing. This took him almost 2 years and he didn't win much at all. Now he's got his swing working great and he's back winning like crazy and far more consistant than he used to be.

I've been amazed by your images Eric, and to be honest I was quite shocked to discover you were only shooting JPEG. I can't wait to see what you can show us once you get through this time of intense learning.

Good Luck,

Cheers Dave thanks for your advise. I'll try using the kelvin adjustments and test but wouldn't it be different since it is a modded cam? i mean, adjusting the kelvin range will be entirely different as kelvin is set for unmodded cam?

thanks once again i wish i was tiger woods

Originally Posted by Escortitis View Post
A shot like that and your not happy Eric! Wow mate you set the bar high for yourself, you've commented on some of my images and I must thank you for going 'Ezy' on me mate

Have a break if you feel you need it, then drag some RAW into Iris and play with RGB ratios, it's so easy:

>rgbbalance 1.?? 0.?? 0.??

If it's no good, try as many values as you can be stuffed putting in. There's a magic number that will work for your camera, there has to be.

Deep breaths mate.

Thanks george. i tried using IRIS have no idea how to use it with different command settings etc. i find using deepskystaker much easier and more direct if only the developers of IRIS can make it more user friendly will be great.

Originally Posted by garymck View Post
What about using Nebulosity from Stark Labs - cheap, as easy to use as DSLR Focus, supports latest Canon Cameras, saves in fits files, which can now be used in Iris without conversion......Also DSS will stack fits files......

Perhaps it might be time to change to a real ccd camera and ditch the dslr - I've just got a QHY8 and just lllluuuuurrrrv not having to take dark frames...

Thanks Gary. just downloaded Nebulosity will test it and see how that goes. Any other focusing software around? g'luck with the GHY8, time for first light

Originally Posted by Merlin66 View Post
I was just looking a spectra of Eta Car, and couldn't help but notice there's not much there other than Ha. All the other wavelengths are a fraction of the Ha emmisions, it's got to be red,red. Maybe you really ARE getting some sensitivity in the Ha. I wouldn't rush things, you're capable of overcoming the transient difficulties and moving forward..... something about "one small step-"
THanks Ken. yes ETA is suppose to be red but not a deep deep red or a bright neon looking red more of a blend like purplish in colour from the OIII mix.

Originally Posted by Bassnut View Post
Sheesh Eric, thats pretty good (and I bet its a bloody Jpeg), finger out, stop mucking around and just do the same thing in RAW..

Steve, thats the filter pics ive already seen.

BTW, the "CCD filter" says low pass, the bayer matrix RGB is band pass, I wonder if the little blue tag in the top left edge is allows pealing off a plastic filter layer off the CCD face?, the blue hue on the CCD seems to also indicate another filter of some sort.
yepp once again jpg need to get use to the cam first before raw mode. when shooting, i'll do RAW + jpg so at least i have best of both worlds if i decide to muck around with RAW later on down the rack.

so literally how many filters now fred?

- theres the low pass filter (low uv/ir cut or known as the Anti-Aliasing filter)
- phaser filter (hot mirror filter/main filter replacement)

If i don't end up selling the 40D, i might pull it apart also and see whats what inside the cam.

Note: According to Christians report and other reports i have read, removing the Anti-Aliasing filter makes images sharper.
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