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Hi James,
what I meant was they weren't pointing too far away from each other, but then I never really checked, so quite possible.
I was thinking of getting the TS-9 OAG to avoid flexure but till then I'll have to stick with the St80 for a while. so will recheck everything again and try and align its FOV to the ota as much as possible.
I've downloaded alignmaster and will try my polar alignment with that. it looks pretty easy and is quite nifty. But does it account for the movement of the star whilst you're centering the object?
Peter, regarding the qhy8 Alfoil fix, I've attached a pic of the qhy8.
For me, the side with the single plastic stud was higher than the other side.
In this version of the qhy8, the plate under the ccd is sort of fixed to the ccd and the ccd sits in a socket on the pcb. so there was no way I could move just the ccd. only way was to adjust the pcb's tilt, but that would prevent it from sitting in the recess around the edges and the body won't close.
the Al plate under the CCD sits on the Al block of the peltier with thermal compound.
I just folded some Al foil to about 0.5 mm thick by 5mm x 15mm, and placed it on the peltier Al block corner where my CCD was lower.
so that basically tilts the whole CCD/PCB assembly a bit and because the PCB flexes slightly, it sits back in the recess and you don't have an air leak.
you do need to fill the 0.5mm gap between the side of the Al foil and the Al block with thermal compound else the ccd will only contact the Al Foil.
Other option is to use the newer UV/IR filter holder with the conical interface and the M48 connector with screws to adjust the tilt of the whole camera.
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