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Hi Tony, The tube rings are threaded at top centre for attaching accessories, so put countersunk screws into both of them, and get two wing nuts or the black plastic knurled knobs used for tightening cameras onto said screws.
[The scope may have come with one of the black knobs for the supplied
screw which is used for mounting a camera on top of the tube for widefield imaging].
get a piece of steel strip 25mm x 4mm x long enough to reach from about 10mm forward of the front tube ring screw to about 25mm beyond the
rear of the scope when it is set as far back in the rings as you are ever likely to need to put it for balancing purposes.
drill a hole in the centre of the strip, large enough for the screw to slide
easily into, about 8mm from the front end of the strip. place the hole onto the front screw and mark the position of the rear screw. Drill the hole for the rear screw, and then elongate both holes about 50mm, so the strip can slide back and forth by that amount.
Bend the rear end 90degrees about 20-25mm from the end.
Attach a square of Teflon to the inside face of the turned in end, which
will prevent the rotating of the tube from damaging the scope's paintwork.
Balance the scope approximately, and fit the strip with the turned in end touching the rear face of the scope; tighten the two wing nuts/ knobs and then slacken off the tube rings enough to allow you to rotate the scope
so that the focuser is where you want it. Once the scope is resting against
the turned in end of the strip you can leave the rings slightly slackened
so that you can rotate the tube any time you like; if imaging, nip up the ring securing knobs, but if using visually they can remain slightly slackened. This might sound a bit fiddly, but I made it in 45 minutes.
You can of course improve its appearance by painting it the appropriate
colour for your scope.
Hope this helps
raymo
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