View Single Post
  #4  
Old 17-02-2014, 12:16 PM
alistairsam's Avatar
alistairsam
Registered User

alistairsam is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Box Hill North, Vic
Posts: 1,837
Quote:
Originally Posted by rodroger View Post
Thanks Alistair, I know I did not have a lot back focus left, and was intending for the Comma corrector to go into the end of the T/Ring. Thanks for the info on The Canon's Bayer matrix problem, I had the same problem with the Meade DSI II Colour CCD in Colour Mode, it did the same thing as spitting the image into 1/4 values per colour. I ended up using ordinary viewing filters in mono mode but colours where very strange.

So even if the Canon is set to Mono and use filters, there is no benefit?
I got better performance when I did this with the Meade DSI, I just thought the same would apply.

I already have a 2" Orion Skyglow filter, that was the main reason for the filter wheel, to have enabled or not, I get tired of squaring the Camera up to the scope each time I change something.
I could still use the LRGB and HA with the Meade but I intend to use the Meade DSI for doing my drift alignment only, So I could wait until I choose a Decent CCD camera but still might get the filter wheel, still thinking about this one as all I might use it for now is the Orion Skyglow Filter (light pollution). Thanks again Alistair, you same me a lot of money I do not need to spend yet
Hi Rodney,

All one shot colour cameras including the Meade DSI, Canon, Nikon, even webcams, colour autoguiders, planetary cams etc have a bayer matrix and will not benefit from LRGB filters.

That's how they produce colour images. by exposing 3 filters at the same time and combining them in the camera's hardware/software (generally speaking).

enabling mono mode in the canon or any colour camera will not help as the mono is a "pseudo mono" built from the RGB data that the camera has captured.
reason is that you cannot force blue light through the Bayer's R filter so blue will still fall only on blue pixels.

you can create a synthetic luminance by combining your RGB data and using that as "L", but doesn't make too much of a difference.

your best bet, get your coma corrector spacing correct, use the LP filter at the end of the coma corrector and you'll be fine. you've got all the other bits.
you have a good FOV, so don't waste that by cropping it without a coma corrector.
the choices are - Baader MPCC mark3, Baader RCC1, Televue Paracorr apart from others. all have different spacing requirements so remember the 45mm for your camera, then add the depth of all the bits you add in front of it.

As suggested, save the money on the filter wheel and filters till you get a mono ccd. you can easily drift align with the dsi as is without filters.

The 10inch F4 is a powerful scope and you should get very good results with the dslr if you capture darks, keep exposure below 6 to 8 mins (depending on ambient temperate), iso 800, capture flats even sky flats.

Cheers
Alistair
Reply With Quote