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Hi Troy,
I have used several modded DSLRs and use to mod Canon's myself like Ezy Styles does. It is a bit tricky but can be done with patience and care and being methodical.
Firstly you'll find the predominant brand are the Canon EOS models starting originally with the 10D and now up to the 5DH and the 50D. A popular one is the 350D and probably the absolute best is the 20Da which was a special model put out by Canon as one of the Canon execs was into astrophotography.
I could be wrong and others more up to date could correct me but judging from posted images I don't know that Canon DSLRs for astroimaging are that massively diffferent from the 350D. More subtle improvements and things like live preview which makes focusing a lot easier and a larger display screen.
From the 20D onwards noise levels have been consistently low. There were problems with some 20D and 30D cameras with banding noise. Especially the first run 30Ds which were defective. I believe that was corrected by Canon but if you come across a 30D make sure it is a later serial number and not from the initial batch.
More megapixels does not necessarily mean a better image so be careful of falling into that marketing trap. 6 or 8 megapixels are fine for that size of chip. If it were a cooled dedicated astro camera of that size chip it would be 6.3 megapixels and the images from that size can be astounding. Pixel size has to be matched to your optics and local seeing conditions to have meaning. If you have lousy seeing then smaller pixels aren't going to help you. Canon has been making the pixels smaller and smaller to cram more pixels in the same sized chip for a long while now and somehow manage the increased noise that smaller pixels generally cause. I imagine they must be near some limit there.
I also have a 40D and that seems to be better than the 20D for terrestial and I think also for astrowork but again how much better is better required for you?
I think the main progress from Canon has been the improved processor and live view and larger display screens. Things you can live without really if it comes down to it.
My 20D has the clear optical glass in front of the sensor. The advantage of this is flexibility. To take a normal terrestial photo I screw an Xnite CC1 (I think that is its name) filter in front. This has the same properties as the original Canon filter. It takes images just like normal. No need for white balance changes etc and the autofocus works as normal as the optical glass is the same thickness as the original Canon filter (it has to be the same thickness for the autofocus to work).
Now to use it for astro work you will need a Baader UV/IR filter screwed on in front of the camera or one of those Hutech filters that pop in the opening of the camera behind the lens.
I can also use the camera for terrestial infrared work which is why I wanted the clear glass.
I screw in front of the lens a Hoya R72 infrared filter and I can take infrared terrestial images.
I developed my own unique formula for infrared images that I am happy with. Not suited for all objects but the right object is intriguing.
Hutech have a range of modded DSLR products and Ezy Styles mods your camera. So plenty of choice.
You should be able to pick up a modded 350D quite cheaply as they are the most popular model as they were originally inexpensive and they are light and small.
As I say Canon DSLRs haven't progressed that massively since the 350D for astrowork and if you wanted to upgrade from a 350D you would be better off going with a dedicated astrocamera where there is more choice now than there was a few years ago in the more inexpensive end with QHY making some very nice "inexpensive" astro cameras.
I hope this helps as I have followed DSLR work for several years now as it was my entry point into astrophotography and DSLRs are a lot of fun and get great results and are relatively "easy" to use with less fuss and less cables/expensive complicated gear required.
Greg.
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