Quote:
Originally Posted by multiweb
You'd be surprised. It's been my experience that these refractors are so sharp they are quite difficult to keep in focus for an extended period of time. When you nail the focus you can clearly see variations in seeing over time. Even at 500mm FL. Can't use a reducer on my old Q so I don't know if that still would be an issue at ~300mm. I found mine to be impossible to focus manually with the standard focuser. I had to get a micro-focuser. I'd always overshoot somehow. Then I had to get some kind of temperature compensation and profile the scope over many nights to get a good ratio absolute position vs. temp. Works well but it's not perfect. Beginning of the night when temp drops rapidly it doesn't seem to be linear. Once you're past that around 22:00 when everything settles then it's ok.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley
Yes you need to refocus every 1C change in temp. Easy now with Sky X temp compensation. I use it on the Honders and it works well.
I think also for an FSQ/Proline combo it would be good to master drizzling to get rounder stars. PixInsight does that and other software is offering that now.
Greg.
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Cheers Marc and Greg, all things I have been expecting to assess and deal with as needed
I am with the scope all the time, so I am not expecting focus checking to be any more annoying than having to turn the dome every 30 - 40 min
Mike