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Old 23-11-2017, 07:10 PM
glend (Glen)
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glend is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lake Macquarie
Posts: 5,339
Take some time to build a Dark Library, and honestly you do not need 500 subs to build a Master Dark. The idea is to pre-create a number of Master Darks for your usual shooting situation; for example i shoot a lot of 5min narrowband subs at the 1600s Unity setting (Gain 139, Offset 21), with the sensor temp at -25C, so i have a Master Dark built to match. I don't worry about shooting alot of Dark subs, i think most of my Master Darks are using around 30 subs. I have Master Darks for all of my normal sub shooting configurations, for example if i am shooting high gain (200), i will pick the high gain Dark that suits, same with the max well depth setting of Gain 76, etc. Once you have built that Master Dark Library you only need to pick that one Master when doing your calibration.
Note the same applies to Bias Frames, but simpler in that they are all 0 seconds (if your using SGP you can select 0 second Bias subs, but some software does not permit a 0 second bias sub). A 0 second Bias is simply an instant dump of the idle sensor.
BTW, there are folks who never use Darks with the 1600, they may use Dark Flats, or nothing at all, its that clean. If your shooting alot of short sub LRGB then any AMP Glow will be undetectable. Its only when you get into long narrowband subs do you need to think about AMP Glow. The new Pro model with the DDR chip is suppose to significantly reduce long sub AMP Glow, but for most early model owners it was never an issue anyway because it calibrates out with Darks. I suppose with the Pro version there maybe more of an argument for ignoring Darks altogether, but i will stick with using them.
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