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Ian, you are right here.
In cooled cameras, only sensor is cooled. Soldering on cooled parts and circuits is avoided (crimping is preferred method)
But most importantly, all connections are made such they allow for expanding/contraction. I saw a lot of solder connections teared apart by thermal stress in the course of my work, after only couple of cycles (from +80 to -35 and back).
That is why I think Avandonk's method (fridge) is what I would do myself (however so far I do not see the need for this, since Melbourne's LP prevents me from going any longer than 1minute, so noise is not the problem for me, at the moment)... Simply and slowly lower the environment temperature camera is in.. Mimicking the natural cooling when you take camera outside from relatively warmer room.
DSLR's are NOT design to survive extreme thermal shocks.
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